No. 347.

FROM OUR FRENCH CORRESPONDENT.

BOULEVARD DES ITALIENS, 29th October, 1859. CHERE AMIE, The materials now in request are popelines, plaid satins, velours de laine, reps, plain taffetas of dark colours, pekins for common wear, taffetas à cannelures, simple or spotted stripes large and small, checks and various fabrics of silk and worsted in richer materials, in dice, figured large stripes or in sprigs of flowers; the reps de laine are very pretty this season, both as to colours and the fineness of the material. Flaids are always fashionable in Paris in the autumn, the favourite one is blue, green, and black, with a very narrow red stripe. Stripes prevail in woollen materials as much as silks; some are also in bands of velvet and gros imperial, enriched by flowers camaieux, which have an excellent effect; these dresses in stripes prove that the skirts this season will be plain, very long, very full, and put in deep flute s.

Redingotes will be worn this winter, they will be edged by black or contrasting colour of velvet.

Moires antiques are less in favour than the moire francaises; satins are numerous, and, it is said, will suit both carriage and ball dresses. Corsages will be worn very high, and richly ornamented by guimps; les marechales and epaulets give them a very aristocratic stamp; the skirts will be ornamented in front, corresponding with the bodies; basques are not worn; he dresses continue to form train behind at the waist, they are in deep folds. Open bodies are again seen, which render an embroidered guimp inside indispensable.

Nothing can be more varied than sleeves are now; some are bouffant the whole length, or in small bouillons and deep trimming, or open of a square form; half tight with revers mousquetaire, some are double; or pagode eutounoir, which is small at the top, very wide at the bottom; or with several frills, or jacket and deep frill; but the closed sleeves will be very general; those closing partially at the wrist are very pretty, they have been used for some time for silk or velvet dresses.

Flounces are rather out of favour, it is expected the winter will complete their reign; the latest manner of wearing three narrow ones at the bottom of the skirt, leaving all the upper part unornamented, has not been much approved; a dress ornamented with guimp is much handsomer and more elegant than these nondescript flounces, which only cause regret for that pretty style of three flounces rising to the waist; one style which rather counteracts the effect is, by placing a trimming of velvet or ruches of taffetas very full above the flounces, a dress in this style of pearl grey glacé, with white, having flounces according to the present fashion, had above each flounce a band of Terry velvet a quarter of a yard wide placed en biais at intervals to the knee, the bands being edged as the flounces by a narrow white blond.

Redingotes will be fashionable this season, a mixed material of silk and wool will be used for them, bordered by black or any contrasting colour in velvet. In-door dresses are composed of a skirt that forms train of silk and worsted mixture, or Irish popeline, quilted with a veste Zouave of cloth, embroidered and braided in black or correspon ding colour; some ladies wear the veste Zouave of velvet, which is ornamented by gold braid.

In children's dresses we may name one of grey popeline, with double skirt, each edged by a band of grey velvet to match the body of the Irlandaise form, low with revers, each revers edged with grey velvet; half long sleeves, with reversed bouillon, and wide revers edged by grey velvet; the ceinture of this frock tied behind with long ends, and was of rich velvet. Another of blue taffetas was ornamented with three flounces, on each of which were five rows of blue velvet in graduated shades, from the clear blue of the dress, to the darkest shade of blue; this dress was made high, round at the waist, and ceinture of dark blue velvet tied behind with ends; the sleeves were formed of three frills, edged with velvet as the flounces, and with an epaulette formed of a noeud and ends of velvet.

Guimpine is more worn than ever on shawls; as well as guimps, cords, fringes, tassels are all used on the bodies of dresses, skirts and

VOL. 32.

as the dress; the sleeves and edges of the jacket are equally trimmed with it; the guimps used on thin materials are very varied and pretty = some taffetas dresses in wide stripes of two shades of the same colour, have a guimp of the same colour on each stripe; others of plain taffetas are ornamented en tablier by a kind of lace guimp attached to the material by tassels, which droop at each side the whole length; the body has the same trimming, forming plastron before and behind, and on the sleeves it is placed as if closing them from the top to the elbow. Some of the ornaments on bodies are with epaulets; sleeves are of every description.

Autumnal bonnets have been introduced rather early this year; one recently sent to Biarritz was of green taffetas, mixed with plaid velvet and black lace, forming small round veil; behind another of violet taffetas, was ornamented in a new style two large very full macarons of violet and black taffetas, placing nearly on the top of the head confined a bunch of casoar feathers; these feathers are become very fashionable, and are worn on the Louis XIII. hat, as well as the long white and grey feather, named the Empress.

Bonnets will be decidedly larger than they were worn during the summer; that is to say, they will encircle the face more. The voilettes of black lace will be worn more than ever on the bonnets; they are also used on dress cap of blond placed on the crown of the cap, and sometimes falling on the shoulders.

Velvet is much worn on straw bonnets with the casoar feather, which is more fashionable than ever. Leghorns are pretty trimmed with black velvet and moss roses; or the Bengal rose, black and pink, is a very fashionable mixture; but velvet bonnets are now appearing, and the favourite mauve colour is again introduced; one in this material was with the front draped inside and out, and had a small bunch of the tips of feathers on the left side, others have bunches of hearts-ease in velvet.

A bonnet of black, near the crown, had a plissé of currant coloured velvet, partially covering the front, about four fingers in width; inside were daisies of the same colour. A bonnet of green velvet in two shades, had a bouquet of feathers in light and dark green, inside was a bandeau of velvet, with two little tips of feathers.

The confections or cloaks are made very full and long; the manteaux à chale or pelerine frontin, have replaced the burnous; for negligé, there are pretty woollen materials, enriched with guimps, and handsome ones are of taffetas, trimmed with plisses, or of velvet with berthe or pelerine, either of guimpe or of point de Hongrie. Some shawls of velvet are covered by embroidery, they are trimmed with three deep frills of lace, and fall almost to the bottom of the dress; other manteaux are with large sleeves, and are also very long.

Pardessus of velvet, silk, or woollen materials will be worn, they are not new, but are still in favour; some manteaux are with capuchon bonne femme (the full hood), and are short, whilst others envelope the dress.

DESCRIPTION OF THE ENGRAVINGS.

PLATE I.-Carriage Dress.- Robe of taffetas, the skirt covered with flowers, headed by a narrow velvet high body, closing with small buttons, pagoda sleeves, with bouillons on the upper part. Bonnet of straw, trimmed with velvet.

Young Ladies' Dress.-Robe of taffetas, the body and skirt without division at the waist; a very wide plissé à la vieille, with small ruche at each edge, is placed a little above the hem; bouillon sleeves, with epaulets and revers plissés. Coiffure of hair, with resille of coral.

Dinner Dress.-Robe of moire, with double skirt, the upper oneornamented by guimp in festons; high body, with fichu of black lace and ribbon; the sleeves are rather short, in frills, with under ones in bouillons of tulle. Coiffure of white lace.

PLATE II.-Walking Dress.-Robe of plaid popeline, with velvet jacket; manteau of black silk, with hood; capote of paille de riz, trimmed with pink Terry velvet, lace, and velvet flowers.

Promenade Dress.-Robe of taffetas, with double skirt and high body, with pelerine; manteau of cloth, with hood, trimmed with

Carriage Dress.-Robe of moire with double skirt, each bordered by a fancy trimming, edged by black velvet; the body is plain, closing with small buttons, and is without separation at the waist; half long bell sleeves, with trimming as the skirt. Bonnet of piuk Terry velvet and black lace.

PLATE III.-Dinner Dress.-Robe of taffetas with double skirt, the lower one has a deep flounce with rosaces of guimp at the top, similar ones ornament the sides of the upper skirt and frill of the bell sleeve; the body is with stomacher and small basque, guimpe of tulle and bouillon sleeve, and small lace cap.

Young Lady's Dress.--Robe of barege with flounces on the skirt, headed by a small ruche; jacket of black lace, ornamented by pink ribbon in plissés, and noeud with long ends. Coiffure à l'Eugenie, with plat of velvet terminating with tassels.

Child's Dress.-Skirt of black silk, with two rows of chenille fringe, headed by a guimp trimmir, low body with basques and sleeves to the elbow, with epaulets of velvet. Noeud of velvet in the hair.

PLATE IV.-Evening Dress.-Robe of satin, ornamented en tablier by plissé, low body, similarly ornamented; short sleeves of three bouillons, under ones and guimpe of lace. Head dress of flowers and lace.

Evening Dress.-Robe of tarlatane with numerous narrow flounces; opera cloak with hood of cachemire. Coiffure of hair, with wreath of flowers.

Ball Dress-Robe of tulle, the skirt covered by flounces, which terminate at the sides, the under skirt of taffetas forming a tablier, with

POVERTY AND WEALTH.

BY THEODORE S. FRY.

Ir wealth is full of pleasures, it is also full of danger. I should wish my son to possess riches, but not until after he had suffered poverty. A man can best examine the real naked features of human nature, from a low hovel, or beneath an humble dress. He will then make a thousand wonderful discoveries, which are secrets to one bred up in luxury. He will detect the worthlessness of much that is showy, and find greatness of soul and beautiful displays of virtue and talent where he least expected. The flatterer pulls off his mask when he comes into his presence. The virtues of the meek and the good shine out to his eyes with their true lustre. The deceits, the hollow show, and all the artificial appearances which are kept up before the powerful, are laid aside for the humble, who see them in their real shapes and colour. The former resembles a spectator in the boxes of the theatre during a representation; the latter a wanderer behind the scenes, who beholds the performers in their actual characters. Wealth exercises several bad influences upon young men. It deprives them of the stimulus to severe application, and crowds their path with temptations to pleasure. How many strong intellects must have lain idle thus, like labourers in the sunshine, their work undone because their wants were supplied. How many more noble characters, who are now seen through past history, like beacon lights over a sea, would have gone down to obscurity undistinguished, but that want urged them onward to exertions, in the course of which their talents were developed, and their integrity brought to the test. Plutarch relates that when Mark Antony was in adversity, he voluntarily yielded to the severest toils and privations to which the meanest of his troops were subjected, and discovered so many noble qualities, that had we seen no more of his life, we might justly set him down as a great and virtuous hero; but when the tide of fortune again turned in his favour, he became again licentious, and cruel, so that he now appears one of the most degraded of men.

To the couclusion which we naturally draw from this occurrence, there are doubtless numerous exceptions. The rich are not necessarily bad, or the poor great, but we speak only of the influences of the two circumstances of being.

George and Thomas were friends at school. Both were young, clear-headed, and good-humoured, neither being remarkable for any quality of person or mind. They were just like other boys, having nothing in their bearing to indicate whether they were to turn out corsairs, poets, or orators. If there was observable in them any thing worthy of remark, it was the general similarity of their tastes, minds, and dispositions. They were both satisfied to beat the hoop, fly the kite, and spin the top without wearing out their school-books by any unnecessary application, for both would rather have their ears boxed than study a lesson.

I sometimes think what a strange sight it would be if we could actually behold, over the crowds of human beings for ever shifting around us, the influences by which their lives are, or are to be guided. How interesting this would be in a group of school-boys, who, while

small wreaths of flowers across, and bouquets at the sides; the body is full, with similar wreath ornamenting it. Coiffure of hair and flowers. PLATE V.-Bonnet of straw, ornamented with black velvet figures on the crown; the trimmings of scarlet ribbon and white flowers. Morning cap of muslin, trimmed with a bow and strings of dark blue ribbon.

Carriage bonnet of Tuscan, partly covered with black blond, with bunches of pink feathers on each side.

Cap of white blond, trimmed with green ribbon edged with velvet. Cap of tulle, with scarlet and black trimming.

Sleeve of muslin, trimmed with black lace, orange-coloured ribbon. Bonnet of white silk and mauve velvet, trimmed with bunches of white chrysanthemums.

Pelerine of spotted muslin, embroidered round the edge with a frill. Bonnet of grey satin, trimmed with a roll of scarlet satin round the front and curtain; the crown is trimm: 1 with black beads, and the bows edged with black blond.

DESCRIPTION OF MODEL.

We this month give the model of a sleeve for an indoor jacket of cloth, velvet, or other material. As the pattern is only half of the sleeve, it will be necessary to hollow out at the armhole in front of the sleeve to enable it to set, as the half given forms the back part only; the difference consists merely in a rather deep piece cut away at the top, in front of the arm.

playing in their unconscious innocence and carelessness together, are each one already entangled inevitably, inextricably in some viewless destiny which shall, in time, with irresistible power, draw on his young and feeble footsteps-perhaps to misery and perdition, perhaps to greatness and glory. To the eyes of one so gifted, how would Buonaparte have looked in his boyish shape? What gleaming lightwhat dark gloom would have by turns attended on his infant steps? But these are idle speculations.

The two boys at school were early handed over to the different influences which coloured their future career, and those were not long in becoming perceptible in their conduct and character. George and Thomas were placed at school by their parents at about the same period. Thomas was brought by his mother. The carriage door was opened by a livery footman, who helped the young master down the steps with particular care, paying him at the same time the most respectful deference.

Will you

"I have brought you my boy, Master Thomas, Mr. Robertson," said the fond parent to the conductor of the academy, while her eyes glistened with maternal affection. "I have brought you my boy, and I shall leave him in your care, I hope, for several years." "We will do all we can to repay your confidence, Mrs. Green. What are your particular wishes respecting his studies? have them selected with a view to any particular profession." "Why, my dear sir, it has pleased Providence to endow us with an ample fortune, and he is our only hope; of course, we wish him to receive the education of a gentleman; but it is not probable he will ever have to work for his living."

Then, I suppose, a thorough English course of lessons. Let him be well grounded in rhetoric, the mathematics, and-"

"If there was the slightest possibility of his ever having to earn his own bread, it would alter the case; but you know, my dear sir, there must be a difference between poor people and rich."

He must learn music then, I suppose?" said Mr. Robertson.

Oh, music! certainly, divine music. I wish him to read it at sight. You will find a guitar among his things; and I wish you to see particularly that he practises. You know that keeps him busy, and does not hurt his eyes. See," she added affectionately, placing her hand, glittering with jewels, beneath the youngster's chin, and pushing back the hair from his forehead, dear little fellow, his eyes are already very, very weak."

"Do you wish him to study any of the classical languages, madam ?" "Who? what?" said Mrs. Green, looking up.

Latin and Greek, madam. Or should you prefer Spanish and French ?"

"Should you like to study Latin and Greek, and Spanish and French, my dear Tom, or any of the other classical languages?" The boy sulked a little, put his finger in his mouth, and looked down on the floor. The mother kissed him again.

LONDON

AND

PARIS