No. 346.

FROM OUR FRENCH CORRESPONDENT.

BOULEVARD DES ITALIENS, 29th September, 1859. CHERE AMIE,-Tarlatane, jean, embroidered cambric muslin, are the favourite materials for toilette in the country, or at the sea-side. Jean is made with plain dress and large casaque, often also with round body, having ceinture of white jean or round body, with waistcoat in front; sometimes jean is trimmed with black cerise on marron velvet. Tarlatanes are with three skirts, or an indefinite number of flounces; some have flounces with wide hem, and ribbon through one of these dresses was, with four skirts having wide hems and gold coloured ribbon, passed through. Another tarlatane dress had shawl of the same, and ruches of ponceau taffetas. Many of the dresses are made with low bodies, but they are always covered by small fichus, or berthes fastened in front; in muslin or jaconet, some may prefer the high body round at the waist, full on the shoulders, and open in front, or the high body, buttoning, which, as the season advances, will soon become general; dresses with long casaques are made in every material, even of barege. The silk dresses, when of plain silk or narrow stripes of light colour, are with narrow flounces not reaching much beyond the knee; the gouffered flounces are in high favour; some morning peignoirs are made with large pelerines.

Peignoirs are much worn of a morning, with burnous d'ète, some of piqué d'Alsace, trimmed with velvet or a simple galon; others are of popeline, with revers of plaid taffetas, or of the same, which is, perhaps, newer, some are trimmed with a thick ruche of pinked taffetas, or a chicorée very full, which is placed on the front of the skirt and on the sleeves; they may be worn with pelisses also trimmed with ruches, when the material should be of taffetas or popeline of dark colours. The open body, though not new to us, is always pretty, and is again adopted with pleasure, being one of the prettiest forms that can be used, and suitable for every material; for young persons they are particularly becoming, with the guimpe inside; these bodies are always made round at the waist, the corsage à la Vierge, named elsewhere, is also a youthful pretty style of body, but only suited to these materials.

It is fully expected that there will be a decided reduction in the size of skirts this season, not exactly in the width, but in confining the bouffant effect entirely to the lower part of the skirt, which will continue to be well supported and bouffant as before. Very pretty and simple toilettes for young ladies, of barege or jaconet, are made with the bodies full, à la Vierge, in a straight band, and small epaulette forms the armhole; round at the waist, with ceinture of the same if the dress is of jaconet or any firm material, otherwise the ceinture is of taffetas. A style of ornament very suitable for silk dresses, and one which will be much used this winter, are macarons of velvet, or taffetas encircled with lace, these are arranged in various ways, according to fancy, sometimes in graduated sizes, in which case the lower row is of macarons, and the others diminish in size. Plain silks are very much in favour, but it is said that the taffetas glaces will again become fashionable; they were always very pretty, and their return will add variety to our materials.

Flounces have almost superseded the double skirts, and they are placed on in no small number, three, five, seven, nine, even ten to fifteen, and they are, moreover, enriched by all sorts of ornaments; some are with three flounces at the bottom of the skirt placed very close together, and with double headings, the rest of the skirt is plain, the body with basque Medici or small jacket behind as the riding habit, the sleeves mostly of the Pagoda form.

The new ribbons are of silk and velvet, satin and velvet chiné, velvet stripes and guimps are in endless variety, the newest ornaments in guimp are very rich, some of point d'Horogrie, others of crochet, to place across the fronts of bodies, and are termed maréchales; torsades form drapery on bodies, terminating in elegant epaulets, which fall in chains, ornamenting the top of the sleeve.

Among the autumnal novelties, we may mention a bonnet, the front

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by red ribbons crossing it; on one side were velvet leaves, confining a flower of chenille, forming touffe, resembling seed-coral; inside were three touffes of black lace, the centre one crossed by red velvet, wide brides of taffetas edged with red velvet. Another of green velvet, with plain front, the crown composed of rouleaux of black and green velvet, interlaced in checks, on which drooped a rich lace; a green velvet flower, from the centre of which were long black pistols, was placed on one side, and inside two small bunches of very small green and black flowers were both placed on one side, nothing on the other; but a novelty that will be, it is expected, greatly admired this season, is a shade of pink, called rose du roi, a tint between dahlia and bright pink ; one of these bonnets was of two shades of rose du roi, ornamented with white marabouts.

Bonnets continue to be made of two different colours, that is to say, the front and the bavolet are not the same as the crown; at this moment, Leghorns and straws are much in favour; field flowers tied with grass or a noeud with long ends and trimmings of black velvet, are also fashionable. Capotes of dark colours in crape, are fashionable at this season; but as the materials continue to be intermixed, velvet is often used with crape; pretty capotes are also seen of black crape or tulle, ornamented with bunches of violets or mauve daisies; though straws are so much worn at this moment, the trimmings, both in flowers and ribbon, should be quite different from those of spring, the colours being much darker, as violet or green violet is becoming to every body, and generally preferred. Crape bonnets in violet or green or black lace on Leghorns, are ornamented with magnolias or gladiolas; and ornaments intermixed with lace or velvet, are most suitable for the moment.

The lama lace has obtained great success in Paris. Shawls of this fabric are attainable by all, and for the autumn, lined with violet or white, will be very pretty as well as fashionable; for useful wear, the plain coloured lama shawls, of various shades, will be worn, and all the different forms of light cloaks, with hoods en attendant, the warmer ones of winter, which we hope is yet distant, the hoods of these intermediate cloaks are those called bonne femme, that is full. The new cloaks which have as yet appeared, are very full, with very large wide sleeves, some with hoods full or plissés, others with a kind of fichu forming point, or with very small square collar.

DESCRIPTION OF THE ENGRAVINGS.

PLATE I.-Sea side Toilette.--Robe of taffetas, with high body, and. mantelet of the same, trimmed with a wide plissé. Hat of coloured straw, with feather.

Promenade Dress.-Robe of barege, ornamented by bands of taffetas, edged on each side by small ruches; the high body has bretelles of the taffetas as the skirt, and open bell sleeve to match, with very full under ones of muslin and lace. Bonnet, white crape, with flowers.

Evening Dress.-Robe of moire, with double skirt, the upper one ornamented by moutants of black lace; the corsage has a double berthe of black lace, forming stomacher in front, crossed by bands of black velvet. Scarf of black lace. The hair is in ringlets, falling on the throat, and pearls encircling at the back.

PLATE II.-Walking Dress.-Robe of spotted taffetas, with long casaque of the same, meeting at the waist, with long military buttons, the body having collar, and lappels edged by braid; bell open sleeve, ornamented with braid, white under sleeves of tulle in bouillons, confined by puffings of ribbon. Straw bonnet, ornamented with bunch of poppies.

Little Girls' Dress.-Frock of checked challi and paletot of dark blue velvet.

Child's Dress.-Frock of blue silk, with square body, with basque and berthe, edged by a plissé of ribbon and white lace. The hair in ringlets.

Walking Dress.-Robe of popeline, with double skirt, each being edged by a band of plaid silk; paletot of black silk, with small buttons

buttons also ornament the wide bell sleeve. Bonnet of crape, with red flowers and ribbon.

PLATE III.-Evening Dress.-Robe of pink barege, ornamented by numerous rows of pink taffetas; the body is pointed, with berthe of white tulle and lace. A wreath of flowers encircles the head, and the hair is in ringlets.

Evening Dress. -Robe of gauze over taffetas, trimmed with wide plissés; the upper gauze skirt is looped up by moutants of mauve ribbon, with nœuds; the body is pointed, with berthe of tulle and ribbon crossing in front, loose hanging sleeves, with nœud of ribbon. Coiffure of hair and pearls, the front hair à l'Eugenie, terminating on the throat in ringlets.

Morning Dress.-Robe of taffetas, in stripes; the body is high and pointed, with revers, on which are guimpe ornaments, the same being continued down the skirt en tablier, and on the sleeves under ones of double bouillons. Coiffure of lace and ribbon.

PLATE IV.-Boy's Dress.-Tunic of plaid popeline, with round cape of the same, ornamented with braid.

Public Dejeuner Dress.-Robe of grenadine, with single deep flounce, headed by a ruche; full body; sleeve with epaulet and deep frill, under ones of tulle. Leghorn bonnet, trimmed with black velvet and flounces.

Walking Dress.-Robe of taffetas, with double skirt, the upper one ornamented with diamonds of velvet, a similar trimming on the body and sleeves; mantelet of silk, trimmed with rich fringe. Straw bonnet, with voilette Clotilde, and noeud of ribbon at the side.

NOVEL EXPLANATION OF THE PHENOMENA OF
GHOSTS.

Dr. Gregory translated a very curious treatise by Karl, Baron von Reichenbach, entitled, "Researches on Magnetism, Electricity, Heat, Light, Crystallisation, and Chemical Attraction, in their relations to the Vital Force." One of the most curious parts of this book is his explanation of the phenomena of ghosts on the odylic theory. After explaining that all chemical changes are attended with odylic light, he says:

"At the close of this section, I now bring forwards a useful appliIcation of the facts already ascertained, which is to me so much the more welcome, as it tears up one of the chief roots of superstition, that mortal enemy to the progress of human enlightenment and liberty. A case which occurred in the garden of the blind poet Pfeffel, has been widely circulated by the press, and is well known. I shall here mention so much of it as is essential. Pfeffel had engaged a young Protestant clergyman, of the name of Billing, as amanuensis. The blind poet, when he took a walk, held Billing's arm, and was led by him.

One day, as they were walking in the garden, which was at some distance from the town, Pfeffel observed, that as often as they passed over a certain spot, Billing's arm trembled, and the young man became uneasy. He made inquiry as to the cause of this, and Billing at last unwillingly confessed that, as often as he passed over that spot, he was attacked by certain sensations, over which he had no control, and which he always experienced where human bodies lay buried. He added, that when he came to such places at night he saw strange (Scottice, uncanny) things. Pfeffel, with the view of curing the young man of his folly, as he supposed it to be, went that night with him to the garden.

"When they approached the place in the dark, Billing perceived a feeble light, and when nearer, he saw the delicate appearance of a He described fiery, ghost-like form hovering in the air over the spot.

it as a female form, with one arm laid across the body, the other hanging down, hovering in an upright posture, but without movement, the feet only a few hands'-breadths above the soil. Pfeffel, as the young man would not follow him, went up alone to the spot, and struck at random all round with his stick. He also ran through the spectre, but it neither moved nor changed to Billing's eyes. It was as when we strike with a stick through a flame-the form always appeared again in the same shape. Many experiments were tried during several months; company was brought to the place, but no change occurred; and the ghost-seer adhered to his earnest assertions; and, in consequence of them, to the suspicion that some one lay buried there. At last Pfeffel had the place dug up. At a considerable depth they came to a firm layer of white lime, about as long and as broad as a grave, tolerably thick; and on breaking through this, the bones of a human being were discovered. It was thus ascertained that some one had been buried there, and covered with a thick layer of lime, as is usually done in time of pestilence, earthquakes, and similar calamities. The bones were taken out, the grave filled up, the lime mixed up with earth and scattered abroad, and the surface levelled. When

PLATE V.-Promenade bonnet of Tuscan straw, trimmed with black velvet and blond; mauve curtain, and flower of the same colour.

Morning cap of embroidered net, trimmed with cerise ribbon, white flowers, and black edging.

Bonnet of black tulle over orange satin; ribbon of the same, and scarlet flowers.

Habit shirt, trimmed with insertion and lace.

Evening cap of tulle and pink ribbon.

Dress cap of white blond, blue satin ribbon and flowers. Morning cap of white muslin, trimmed with maroon velvet and white flowers and ribbon.

Ditto of white and black net, trimmed with green ribbon. Sleeve of white muslin, with a cuff, and rosettes of black lace. Carriage bonnet of white lace, trimmed with bands of crimson velvet.

White sleeve, trimmed with black lace and blue velvet.

DESCRIPTION OF MODEL.

With the accompanying number we give the model of a low full body adapted for thin materials, over which a pelerine Marie Antoinette may be worn; the body is fulled into a narrow band forming shoulder piece on the top of the sleeve, which is a bouillon one.

Billing was now again brought to the place, the appearance was no longer visible, and the nocturnal ghost had vanished for ever.

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It is hardly necessary to point out to the reader what I think of this story, which caused much discussion in Germany; because it came to us on the authority of the most trustworthy man alive, and received from theologians and psychologists a thousand frightful interpretations. To my eyes, it belonged entirely to the domain of chemistry, and admitted of a simple and clear scientific explanation. A human corpse is a rich field for chemical changes, for fermentation, putrefaction, gasefication, and the play of all manner of affinities. A layer of dry quick lime, compressed into a deep pit, adds its own powerful affinities to organic matters, and lays the foundation of a long a slow action of these affinities. Rain water from above is added; the lime first falls to a mealy powder, and afterwards is converted, by the water which trickles down to it, into a tallow-like external mass, through which the external air penetrates but slowly. Such masses of lime have been found buried in old ruined castles, where they had lain for centuries; and yet the lime has been so fresh, that it has been used for the mortar of new buildings. The carbonic acid of the air, indeed, penetrates to the lime, but so slowly, that in such a place a chemical process occurs which may last for many years. The occur. rence in Pfeffel's garden was therefore quite according to natural laws: and since we know that a continual emanation of the flames of the crystalline force accompanies such processes, the fiery appearance is thus explained. It must have continued until the affinities of the lime for carbonic acid, and for the remains of organic matter in the bones, were satisfied, and finally brought into equilibrium. Whenever, now, a person approached, who was, to a certain degree, sensitive, but who might yet be, or appear in perfect health; and when such persons came within the sphere of these physical influences, he must necessarily have felt them, like Mademoiselle Maix, and seen them by night, like Mademoiselle Reichel. Ignorance, fear, and superstition, would now give to the luminous appearance the form of a human spectre, and supply it with head, arms, and feet; just as we can fancy, when we will, any cloud in the sky to represent a man or a demon."

NEWLY DISCOVERED COAL FIELDS.-Mr. Blake, of the United States, a geologist of considerable experience, who devoted many months to an exploratory tour in Western America, states that one of the most interesting results of his researches is the determination by fossils of the existence of the veritable coal measures on the west slope of the first range of the Great Rocky Mountain chain. They contain beds of bituminous coal; and about twenty-five miles south of Santa Fé anthracite is found in a bed thick enough to be profitably worked. Hitherto there has been much doubt respecting the age of the coal beds in these mountains. Mr. Blake's observations tend to prove that true coal occurs there. The fossils are identical specifically with those of the Missouri coal measures. The coal fields are thus shown to extend 1090 miles west of the Mississippi, and to crop out at an altitude of from 6000 to 7000 feet above the sea.