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FROM OUR FRENCH CORRESPONDENT.
BOULEVARD DES ITALIENS, December 26th, 1857. CHERE ANIE,- Nothing can exceed the richness of the materials this season ; some silks in Paris cost as much as sixty francs the ell. Satin is struggling for the pre-eminence; in black it is not so much liked as in colours;
all light tints have a very rich appearance. The mixture of black and white lace will be very fashionable this winter, but they should both be of fine and delicate texture, or they have a heavy effect and do not trim the dresses well. Shawls of black lace are fashionable for evening wear. Flowers will be much worn on ball dresses, in bouqets placed at intervals on the tulle or third upper skirt; tulips and red geraniums are pretty. Ball dresses continue to be of light and airy appearance ; some rich and splendid ones, however, made of lampas, brocatelle, and moire antique, covered by lace, will be worn. Youthfulness needs only the lightest toilettes, whilst a richer style is required for those more advanced. Lace flounces are worn on satin dresses ; many shades of which are pretty, dahlia, mauve, rose des Alpes, green, currant, blue and pink. "One novelty talked of, though not quite decided, is whether gloves should not be worn the colour of the dress; fans are fashionable, corresponding in colour.
Satin is used in evening dress ; one of white satin was covered by five skirts of tulle, raised by a cordon of white and mauve marabouts ; the body drape with bouquet of the marabouts. Another dress of blue moire antique had a tablier of white satin, covered with white crape, and næuds of narrow blue ribbon embroidered with white bugles; thé tablier (apron) finished round by a wide lace; the body had stomacher at the tablier; a berthe of lace round the body, and continued down the sides of the stomacher. Dresses of amber satin are worn covered by a tunic of black lace. For young ladies, dresses of tarlatane are pretty; the skirt covered by fifteen narrow flounces, edged by a very narrow red velvet; corsage a la Grecque, bordered by velvet; and short sleeves with second ones à la Juive, similarly edged, open to the armhole, and reaching half way down the skirt; coral necklace; resille and tassels of coral in the hair.
Plaids are quite the rage just now; they are equally used on bonnets, dresses, and out-door confections. Plaid taffetas and plaid velvets, in which blue and green are united, are used equally for dresses and bonnets. Moires antiques are now only seen with ornaments of velvet, or of satin, sometimes in tablier, but more frequently in quilles ; these are pretty of velvet, embroidered in floss silk, others are of stamped velvet embroidered with bugles of steel. Flounces, though rather declining in favour, are not quite abandoned, but double skirts are decidedly preferred. A great deal of trimming is still worn on dresses. Many negligée dresses are trimmed with tatfetas ribbon, very wide plissé a la Vieille ; two rows form quilles up the sides; these ribbons are the same colour as the dress, and the body has the same trimming.
Taffetas, Pekin satins, droguets, etc., which are made in great variety, are used in demi toilette ; velvets, satins, veloutis, fancy plushes, are reserved for dress; the weather has hardly warranted the use of fur for trimmings, but it is expected to be introduced as quilles on satin dresses ; as yet, gimp is most in demand, and the prettiest are the brandenbourgs, which appear likely to be very fashionable; they are used in negligé, in cords or plats, terminating with an ornament; chenilles, forming dice or checks, are also pretty. Black taffetas is much worn, trimmed with velvet or ribbon of contrasting colour ; some are plaids.
Taffetas, velvet, and popeline, are the materials in use for children's dresses ; square bodies are worn by them, and trimmings of gimp. Burnouses of peluché, lined; with hood and peluché bonnets, with simple naud of ribbon on the top, and ends drooping at the sides.
The bodies for negligés are worn high, with points; long basques, with ceintures, with small basque cut in tabs ; the ornaments, whether of berthe, bretelles, or stomacher, are regulated by the skirt; the sleeves bouffante, and fulled to a wristband; for demi-toilette they are very wide, open to the armhole, so as to show the under-sleeves. In evening dresses the bodies are low; open to the waist behind and before, and confined by two bands, a richly embroidered guimpé necessarily accompanies this style of body. The high bodies are a
triumph for gimps, which are now so various and rich as to give an elegance and originality at once. Basques, as they were worn, po longer exist ; the only one retained is a very narrow basque edging the corsage, something similar to the style of a waistcoat; for casaques and pardessus the basques are very deep, though some make them shorter than last year.
The fichus Marie Antoinette, Louis XV., Watteau, are worn in demi-toilette, ornamented for ladies wear with rich embroidery and lace; for young persons they are more simple, of tulle bouillonne, having ribbons through, matching in colour with the dress. The greatest novelty are the large medallions, embroidered and encircled by a narrow Valenciennes lace ; two rows of medallions, with the lace round them, form the top of this fichus. The small Parisian collars of cambric, embroidered, are the fashion for negligé; accompanied by sleeves, with small wristbands turned back. The English, or open embroidery, is in Paris at least almost reserved for children's dresses. Under sleeves for dress are in double bouillons, terminating with frill; the prettiest accompaniment for these high dresses are large pelerines of guipure in the cannezous form.
Little caps are made for morning wear of coloured muslin, ornamented by small ruches, and pompons of ribbon ; others are of spotted muslin of the fauchon form, over pink blue or paille taffetas; others are plain white, half muslin, half Valenciennes lace, a charming novelty.
Bonnets are approaching in form nearer and nearer to the Mary Stuart; for carriage and visits crape and Terry velvet are fashionable, with flowers or feathers, but not now in wreaths, and should be mixed with foliage and grass passing beyond the bavolet. Feathers, long and curling, return on the bàvolet. Marabouts are arranged in touffes ; the edge of the bonnet always ornamented by lace. In negligé, velvet bonnets are worn, with fauchons of plaid velvet, or small scarff edged with fringe; tassels are rather more dressy and are preferred for lighter colours. White quilted bonnets, bordered by a biais of velvet, are pretty for young ladies. A bonnet of plaid velvet was made with the crown plissé ; the edge was of dark blue; the brides, or strings, were of plaid velvet; on one side was a noud, on the other two feathers. Satin will only be used on bonnets mixed with other materials. A capote of currant colour velvet, with full crown, had the edge of satin fulled ; a heron feather drooped to the shoulders, and the brides were of velvet. Negligé bonnets should be simple. Some capotes are made of coloured velvet, fulled lengthways; the bavolet even, in folds, and without any ornament; a ruche of tulle is placed inside, and single noud When feathers are used on bonnets they turn round the front, about the centre of the bonnet; the bavolet is surmounted by a smaller one as a heading. Though plaids give the idea of being showy, for the purpose, very pretty bonnets are produced by the mixture of velvet half black and half plaid ; the noud of plaid placed on one side, rising almost to the summit of the head; the brides black,
One of the latest novelties in bonnets are those of velvet without trimming, but a fauchon of white or black lace according to the colour, the point falling a little on the forehead and the two ends tied in front, confined by a noud of velvet; the bavolet has a little full trimming forming heading. Velvet bonnets are often without either blond or neud.
We do not know how long the burnous may continue fashionable; they are becoming so very common that novelty seems to be required, and the velvet shawl, embroidered and trimmed with lace, is much approved ; as well as casaques of velvet with deep basque; and the Patent Raglan trimmed with fur. Burnouses are only adapted for negligé, but the casaques, the forms of which may be so much varied, and the mantelet of velvet, will form the most elegant out-door costumes; those of the shawl form, with frill of the same, covered with wide black lace, are very elegant.
DESCRIPTION OF THE ENGRAVINGS.
PLATE 1.-Walking Dress.--Robe of droguet, with jacket of the same, trimmed with fringe ; bournous of grey cloth, with hood lined with quilted satin. Bonnet of pink silk and velvet, with feather laid on the front.
Little Girl's Dress.-Tunic dress of red velvet; paletot of green velvet and gold-coloured braid. Felt hat, with feather.
Promenade Dress.-Robe of taffetas à disposition ; double skirt, the upper one terminating with fringe, headed by wreath ; high body, with fringe, and double sleeves to correspond. Bonnet of green velvet and satin.
Carriage Dress.- Robe of satin, the skirt ornamented by quilles of stamped velvet; jacket body; mantelet of rich blue velvet, trimmed with black lace. Bonnet of white Terry velvet and lace.
Walking Dress. - Robe of checked popeline, with plain skirt and high body, with small basque ; manteau of drap, trimmed with velvet and tassel fringe. Bonnet of black velvet and plaid.
PLATE II.-Carriage Dress. Robe of taffetas; the skirt is covered by three flounces ornamented by velvet spots ; casque with pelerine and large hanging sleeves to correspond. Capote of marron velvet and satin.
Little Girl's Dress.--Tunic dress of taffetas, ornamented by bouillons edged by lace; low body, with pointed berthe ; very short sleeves, with frill, and under ones in bouillons, embroidered guimpe with collar.
Walking Dress.-Robe of droguet, with double skirt edged by bands of plaid ; mantelet shawl of taffetas, with quilted border trimmed with lace. Bonnet of Terry velvet, with velvet flowers.
Evening Dress.-Robe of pink taffetas, covered by flounces of lace, the upper from the waist, the two lower ones are headed by bouillons having bouquets of flowers and neuds of ribbon placed at intervals ; the body is with berthe of lace, and bouillons, nouds, and flowers on the shoulders, and similar ones in the hair.
Promenade Dress. -- Robe of bois satin, with jacket body ornamented with velvet; manteau of black velvet, embroidered with rich galons. Bonnet of Terry velvet, with feathers.
PLATE III.- Dinner Dress. -- Robe of blue taffetas ; the skirt is covered by flounces of the same, and one of black lace between every two of silk; jacket body, with berthe of black lace ; bell sleeve, with lace, headed by a narrow bouillon. Coiffure à l’Eugenie, with flowers.
Walking Dress.- Manteau of black silk, with deep band of velvet round the bottom ; small pointed cape, edged with fringe and tassels at the point. Capote of marron velvet, with feathers.
Little Boy's Dress.-Tunic and paletot of cachemire, edged with plush.
Little Girl's Dress. — Frock of popeline, the body of a square form; burnous of cachemire, with hood, 'the whole having a band round of velvet plaid. Capote of green silk in small bouillons.
Evening Dress.—Robe of citron gauze, double skirt; the under one has three large bouillons, the upper two flounces of white lace headed by ruches; pointed body, with berthe of white lace; bunches of lilac ornament both skirt and body; the hair à l’Eugenie, with beads and flowers.
PLATE IV.- Promenade Dress.- Robe of ruby.coloured satin ; with double skirt, trimmed with gimp of the same colour, and black scolloped velvet; jacket body, with berthe ; and sleeves with two puffs and frill, trimmed to match the skirt. Mantle of royal blue velvet, with deep fringe. Bonnet of orange-coloured satin, trimmed with crape ; and ribbon of the same colour.
Evening Dress.- Robe of pink silk, with four flounces, trimmed with bands of pink velvet; short sleeves of three double frills of silk; the body is ornamented in front with a bouquet of white roses. The hair is plaited back from the face, and ornamented with a wreath of small flowers; the back view of this head is shown in the glass. Scarf of white cachemire, edged with golden fringe.
Carriage Dress. -Robe of emerald green striped silk, with a triple skirt, each of which is edged with black blonde ; the body is high, trimmed with basques, and sash of satin ribbon; the sleeves are made in puffs, trimmed with blonde and ribbon. Bonnet of lilac silk, and white lace.
Morning Dress.- Robe of French merino, with plain skirt; high body, fastened up the front with buttons, trimmed with goffered satin ribbon; the sleeves are wide and open. Cap of lace and pink ribbons.
PLATE V.-Evening cap of black blonde, trimmed with cerise ribbon.
Morning do. of net, spotted with black, and trimmed with royal blue satin ribbon, and bunches of white flowers.
Second do. of dotted muslin, trimmed with scarlet roses and ribbon of the same colour.
Head-dress of crimson satin ribbon and black velvet, ornamented with white roses, and golden leaves.
Second do. of blue velvet, trimmed with silver, and garnished with grapes on each side ; and a wreath of vine leaves round the front.
Carriage bonnet of dark fancy straw, trimmed with pink and black ribbon, and a dark grey feather round the back.
Second do. of green Terry velvet and fancy straw, trimmed with a fall of lace over the crown, and a wreath of dark purple flowers round the front.
Pelerine of embroidered muslin, trimmed with ruches of lavender satin ribbon.
Habit shirt of jaconet, with a collar of two frills at the neck, fastened with a bow of crimson velvet.
White under-sleeve of jaconet muslin, trimmed with white lace, and a bow of purple velvet.
Second do. of cambric, with a wide frill, trimmed with three rows of narrow black velvet, and bows of brown satin ribbon.
DESCRIPTION OF THE MODEL. The Model accompanying the present Number is of a Fichu of lace, tulle, or muslin, worn on a low body, replacing a berthe; it crosses in front, and the ends are fastened to the waist at each side.
A COLD DAY—“ NOW." Now, the moment people wake in the morning, they perceive the coldness with their faces, though they are warm with their bodies, and exclaim, “ Here's a day!” and pity the poor little sweep, and the boy with the water-cresses. How anybody can go to a cold ditch, and gather water-cresses, seems marvellous. Perhaps we hear great lamps in the street of something falling; and, looking through the window, perceive the roofs of the neighbouring houses thick with snow. The breath is visible, issuing from the mouth as we lie. Now we hate getting up, and hate shaving, and hate the empty grate in one's bed-room, and water freezes in ewers, and you may set the towel upright on its own hardness, and the window-panes are frostwhitened, or it is foggy, and the sun sends a dull brazen beam into one's room ; or, if it is fine, the windows outside are stuck with icicles; or a detestable thaw has begun, and they drip; but, at all events, it is horribly cold, and delicate shavers fidget about their chambers, looking distressed, and cherish their hard-hearted enemy, the razor, in their bosoms, to warm him a little, and coax him into a consideration of their chins. Savage is a cut, and makes them think destiny really too bard.
Now breakfast is fine; and the fire seems to laugh at us as we enter the breakfast-room, and say, “ Ha; ha! here's a better room than the bed-chamber!" and we always poke it before we do anything else ; and people grow selfish about seats near it; and little boys think their elders tyrannical for saying, "Oh, you don't want the fire--your blood is young.” And truly that is not the way of stating the case, albeit young blood is warmer than old. Now the butter is too hard to spread; and the rolls and toast are at their maximum ; and the former look glorious as they issue, smoking, out of the flannel in which they come from the baker's; and people who come with single knocks at the door are pitied; and the voices of boys are loud in the street, sliding, or throwing snow-balls; and the dustman's bell sounds cold ;
and we wonder how anybody can go about selling fish, especially with that hoarse voice; and schoolboys hate their slates, and blow their fingers, and detest infinitely the no-fire at school; and the parish beadle's nose is redder than ever.
Now sounds in general are dull, and smoke out of chimneys looks warm and rich, and birds are pitied, hopping about for crumbs, and the trees look wiry and cheerless, albeit they are still beautiful to imaginative eyes, especially the evergreens, and the birch with boughs like dishevelled hair. Now mud in the roads is stiff, and the kennel ices over, and boys make illegal slides in the pathways, and ashes are strewed before doors; or you crunch the snow as you tread, or kick mud-flakes before you, or are horribly muddy in cities. But if it is a hard frost, all the world is buttoned up and great-coated, except ostentatious elderly gentlemen, and pretended beggars with naked feet; and the delicious sound of " All hot !" is heard from roasted apple and potato-stalls, the vender himself being cold, in spite of bis " hot," and stamping up and down to warm his feet; and the little boys are astonished to think how he can eat bread and cold meat for his dinner, instead of the smoking apples.
Now skaiters are on the alert; the cutlers' shop-windows abound with their swift shoes ; and as you approach the scene of action-pond or canal-you hear the dull grinding noise of the skaits to and fro, and see tumbles, and Banbury cake-men and blackguard boys playing “ hockey," and ladies standing shivering on the banks, admiring anybody but their brother, especially the gentleman who is cutting figures of eight, who, for his part, is admiring his own figure. Beginners affect to laugh at their tumbles, but are terribly angry, and long to thump the bye-standers. On thawing days, idlers persist to the last in skaiting or sliding amidst the slush and bending ice, making the Humane Society man ferocious. He feels as if he could give them the deaths from which it is his business to save them. When you have done skaiting, you come away, feeling at once warm and numb in the feet, from the tight effect of the skaits; and you