No. 337.

FROM OUR FRENCH CORRESPONDENT.

BOULEVARD DES ITALIENS, December 24th, 1858. CHERE AMIE, -The fashionable materials for the winter season are Pekins velontés, armures, moires, taffetas of every colour, with pink sprigs on black grounds, or black on pink grounds, white taffetas sprigged all over with crosses of black velvets, which style will also be made in every colour-violet, marron, emerald green, etc.; another kind is of orange taffetas, with designs in black Astracan and white plush. Figured materials seem rather in favour this winter. Plain taffetas are less elegant. The double skirts of Terry velvet have the upper one sometimes open at the sides, and bordered by a wide plain velvet of the same colour.

Whilst we have to deplore the loss of the basques, which were so becoming, and formed so pretty a finish to our corsages, and now confine our sleeves to a narrow wristband, and relinquish the graceful oriental and flowing sleeve, and quilles disappearing, whilst a change seems to affect most things-the rotundity of our skirts have assumed an enormous circumference, and a new form is spoken of resembling an umbrella or parachute; on the other hand, we are told the skirts will be very long this season, almost forming a train, and not at all bouffant at the top, and cut for this style in front, without division from the skirt, the plaits only commencing under the arm. Many sleeves will be worn tight at the lower part, and bouillonné on the top, the body round at the waist, or pointed if high. Low bodies have very deep points, both before and behind. The same material seems to differ in appearance according to the use to which it is applied; with plain skirt, suitable for morning, or ornamented up the sides with noeuds of velvet, it at once becomes a dinner toilette.

Some very pretty dresses in the newest fashion are with sleeves closing at the bottom and bouillonnés at the top, round at the waist with ceinture; some have the body pointed, then a large noeud is placed at the side, the skirts very full, and at the bottom, but less so at the top. As a novelty also, we may mention a dress composed of alternate breadths of violet, Terry velvet and black velvet, in single skirt, long and full, the two side breadths with very handsome gimp. The union of black with light colours being again in favour, flounces of black lace will be much worn. A dress of laurel green satin, with very full skirt, but plain, was mounted at the waist in five large hollow plaits; a trimming Louis XV. was placed on, consisting of jockeys for the sleeves and brandenbourgs for body, and skirt of gimp.

A very handsome toilette of white gros de Tours sprigged with pink Alpine daisies, was with double skirt, trimmed with ribbon to correspond; the skirt was mounted in rather a novel manner, having only three large folds or plaits at the waist, which method obviates increasing the size at the hips. Velvet dresses again appear, and no richer or handsomer material can be produced. Splendid trimmings are made for it, composed of beautiful points d'Espagne placed on the bodies, and particularly the sleeves, which are denominated epaulettes Almaviva. They are difficult to describe; some are made of a nœud of velvet with bugles or gimp, a resille à jour with pendants of silver, velvet ribbons; plaid, and in every variety, are used to ornament the entire dress, and gimps also form an important item in the present toilettes. Some dresses have a wide chenille gimp placed at the bottom of the skirt; a very useful little gimp is also made to conceal the heading of laces, the seams of dresses, and headings of flounces.

Donillettes for home wear are being made for the cold weather they are of satin or soft warm materials, and wadded throughout; for the same purpose are the Soutanelles Louis XV. in large folds confined in the back with small collar; these are trimmed with a plissé of cerese or orange velvet. The porte jupes, to which we have before called attention, are more than usually necessary at this season; they possess the double advantage of being simple or elegant according to the use required; for walking they are of black velvet, with or without any noend; when required to be also ornamental they are of taffetas ribbon, forming a large touffe with long ends, and may be

VOL. 32.

ball dresses of white satin embroidered in gold, or of ostrich feathers. Tulle dresses are raised on both sides in the style of Louis XV.; for white dresses the porte jupe may be of cerise velvet, with large rosettes and long ends; flounces may also be used.

Resilles are very pretty for morning coiffures, as also small scarfs of fitch, which can be as easily arranged on the hair as flounces, and they are becoming.

A simple style is fashionable this season in bonnets; thus one of violet velvet was without any mixture of colour, merely a wide band of velvet plissé on the front, to which was attached a deep black lace falling on the crown, a second falling on the bavolet, brides of velvet, and inside a large noeud of violet velvet. Another of pink crape and velvet had rosaces of crape, with velvet centre. Those for morning wear are very simple, and almost always with voilettes. Those worn at concerts and theatres in Paris are always with feathers or flowers. A bonnet of green velvet, with full crown, had on the left side a papillon noeud with long ends edged with black lace; the interior had blond at the sides of the face, and bandeau of velvet, and noeud of black lace. Quilted bonnets are very much worn for young ladies; they are made of white satin without the least trimming. Bonnets of crape, covered with tulle spotted with black, will continue to be worn; the crown only thin the front and bavolet of plain velvet. A pretty bonnet was made with soft crown of plaid velvet, the front and bavolet of white satin quilted, no trimming outside, a band of plaid velvet inside.

The mante Bretoune, the pelisse Maintenon, and the burnous pelisse, with frill of velvet, are the most favourite models, and generally of velvet, except the pelisse Maintenon, which is of satin; there are also the large velvet shawls with deep frill of lace, and covered by rich embroidery in bugles, and on which is placed a flat hood of lace; also the long manteau, with fringe and galons of bugles, with wide sleeves falling very low. Many ladies prefer the burnous pelisse of velvet trimmed with a single flounce of the same.

Chinchilla fur is fashionable again, and is used in trimmings for burnouses, Polonaises, etc.; burnous of black velvet was trimmed with sable, and instead of hood a deep round cape of fur of the Cardinal form.

POSTSCRIPT.-Tarlatane is no longer fashionable for ball dresses; tulle is preferred, in double skirts, the upper one being raised by bouquets or porté jupe Watteau, ornamented with flowers. White tulle, with ribbons of the same colour, is the style most approved to accompany pearls or precious stones; some of these dresses have as many as a dozen flounces, trimmed with ruches of tulle, gauffered ribbons, or chenille; others are with flounces embroidered in colours, or with narrow velvet.

DESCRIPTION OF THE ENGRAVINGS.

PLATE I.-Morning Dress.-Robe of light green gros de Tours; the body high and pointed, with pelerine; and double bell sleeves, ornamented by galons of black and green velvet; the skirt en tablier; with galons across; small lace cap.

Promenade Dress.- Robe of violet satin, ornamented with gimp and tassels; Polonaise of the same, trimmed round with plissé a la vieille; loose, hanging, sleeves in deep plaits, on which is gimp terminating with tassels, and plissé a la vieille round the bottom. Bonnet of quilted satin, with noeud of velvet, and ends finished with fringe.

Dinner Dress.-Robe of taffetas with triple skirt, bordered by checked velvet; high body, pointed, with nœuds of velvet up the front; double sleeves, edged as the skirt and noeuds. Coiffure of hair, with lace and beads.

PLATE II.-Evening Dress-Robe of white satin, with flounces of lace; pointed body, with berthe of lace; opera cloak of green cachemire, with hood. Coiffure of hair in ringlets and flowers, and black lace at the back.

Carriage Dress. -Robe of taffetas, with three flounces; a band of darker coloured velvet ornaments the flounces and basque; and triple

Bonnet of pink Terry velvet and satin, with half wreath of roses across the forehead.

Carriage Dress.-Robe of marron taffetas, with double skirt; the upper one terminates with fringe and double rows of velvet up the sides; pointed high body, with pelerine trimmed with two biais of ribbon crossing at the waist; cachemire shawl. Bonnet of white Terry velvet, with feathers.

Little Girl's Dress. - Frock of tarlatane, spotted with rose colour; the skirt covered by three flounces, with hem and ribbon through; low body, with pelerine crossing at the waist, and tying behind with ribbon through the hem; the hair plaited and tied with rose-coloured ribbon. PLATE III.-- Walking Dress. - Robe of marron taffetas broché; mante of moire, with loose hanging sleeves; the whole trimmed with a plissé a la vieille. Bonnet of velvet and satin, with voilette of black lace.

Carriage Dress.-Robe of moire, with plain full skirt; polonaise of the same, trimmed with bands of velvet; pelerine of velvet, trimmed with very wide black lace, and two rows of plissé. Bonnet of satin and Terry velvet, with flowers.

Promenade Dress.-Robe of popeline, with full plain skirt ; polonaise of black satin, ornamented with gimp buttons, and the sleeves with frills. Bonnet of rose-coloured Terry velvet, simply trimmed with ribbon.

PLATE IV.-Evening Dress.- Robe of embroidered muslin, with three flounces; full body, with berthe and open sleeves; opera cloak of white cachemire, lined with rose-coloured satin, and hood with tassels. Coiffure of hair, with flowers.

Carriage Dress.-Robe of Terry velvet, with double skirt and jacket;

manteau of satin, with pointed pelerine, with frill headed by gimp. Bonnet of quilted satin, with wreath of small velvet flowers.

Morning Dress.-Robe of taffetas; the skirt trimmed at the bottom by a deep band of Terry velvet; casaque made full and tied round the waist with a cord; square open sleeves, with band as the skirt round the basque and sleeves, and edged with fringe; the hair ringlets, with nœud of velvet at the back.

PLATE V.-Morning cap of black and white lace, trimmed with pink ribbon.

Chapeau of red silk and black lace.

Dress cap of blonde, trimmed with blue velvet and ribbon.

Bonnet of purple satin, trimmed with feathers of the same colour and black lace.

Cap of white tulle, trimmed with crimson velvet and white roses.
Cap of net, trimmed with green ribbon.

Bonnet of violet-coloured velvet, trimmed with white flowers.
Pelerine of net, trimmed with lace and light red ribbon.

White sleeve of muslin, lined with sarcenet, with trimmings of narrow black velvet.

Sleeve of jaconot, edged round the cuff with work.

Cap of lace, trimmed with orange-coloured flowers and ribbon.

THE SNOW ACQUAINTANCE.

A REAL INCIDENT.

(Concluded from our last.)

"I stoppit at the quay of M'Khay cottage; it was twilight. I stole to the little room aboon the diary, whilk I reachit by creepin' up a bower of cinquefoil, until I steppit upon its little balcony. 'Ettie''John' her head was in my bosom. She gave me a sweet look; (here the bright tears ran races down the cheeks of Maxwell); Why are your e'en sae red, John!' The warld has deserted me, Ettie 'Nae, nae, John, dinna say that, for I will cling to ye when the warld and a' are gane.' A burst of grief easit my achin' heart. I sat down wi' my head restin' on the saft bosom o' Ettie, and tauld her my sorrows. In sic sweet communion passit the hours till the morn was hie i' the heavens, and I started frae the arms o' Ettie. We maun part,' said I, the warld is a' ane to me. I am young and healthy, puir and cantie; I loved you when I was rich, I winna marry when puir; but 'gin God prosper me, we will be ane.' The saut tears fell in abundance frae our e'en, and I canna tell the whilk wept the harder. I left wi' her my books and the few jewels; tied my bonnie boat in the boat-house; callit Bruce, and travellit a foot to Aberdeen. Frae there I took passage to the Frith of Forth, and in due time enterit Edinbro'.

"Born to affluence, I wasna taught i' the mystery o' ony useful occupation, but was intendit for the bar, and was therefore inexperiencit and unkenn'd 'i the warld. I was fash wi' the pen, and had mair than an inklin' o' arithmetic. I enterit a compting-house. At twanty-ane I was i' the house as a partner. At twanty-five I married Ettic.

"When I returnit to the quay o' M'Khay cottage, I felt proud to think that I had showit mysel' worthy the blude o' the Max'ells; auld Nigel himsel' (that's he over the mantel wi' the straight armour on, and is the ooner o' the big blutherbuss over the bookis), wouldna blush for the spirit o' his great gran' child. Na, na, the blude he spillit at Both'ell Brig wasna mair worthy a king's favour than mine, Vivian. "After Ettic and I were ane, I went to Braemar; my heart was full; I couldna breathe the air o' Max'ell holm wi'out my mither's sweet face risin' among a' the trees and o'er ilka hillock. Thorndyke was dead. A' the tenantry cam' wi' tears i' their e'en to greet the return of the lawfu' laird. Amang the rest cam' Sandie Broom, who tauld me anither horror.

"I were fishin' on the Dee,' said Sandie, 'not a bittock mair than ten ells frae your blessit father, when the storm cam' up, and the boat was overturnit. Thorndyke caught haud o' the keel; your father sank; he cam' up agin to the tap; I saw Thorndyke (and he lookit like a bogle o' hell when he did it) strike your father down wi' his ain foot; the douce John Max'ell sunk to rise nae mair.'

"My blude froze i' my veins; I would hae uttered blightin' curses o' the head o' the hell-hound Thorndyke; but he has gane to render accounts to ane mair worthy to judge and punish than I, puir worm !

"I will na tell ye how proud I was o' my blushin' bride Ettie, but giu ye will gie me that ebon box, ye shall see her. I here handed him a small casket of ebony, ornamented with pearl buhl. He opened it, and shewed me a lovely picture, which closely resembled the melancholy face over the mantel. She was in her bridal dress, and sitting in the bower of cinquefoil, which had so often been the scene of their tender love. In the same casket was an aigrette of pearls and diamonds; a splendid ring, whose diamonds formed a crest, while beneath the largest one could be perceived the initials M. D., Mary Douglas; it was his mother's bridal ring. In the casket were a few other seals and jewels, all having an appearance of antiquity. We lived peacefu' and happy; my marriage was blest wi' anely a daughter (here he sighed deeply)-at the age o' thirty I retired to Max'ell holm, whilk I had purchasit wi' my ain siller, blest wi' wealth, a wife, and ane dear, dear child.

"The rose whilk opens its velvet leavis to inhale the douce breeze o' the mornin', and thraws open its wee bosom to take in the kindly draps o' dew, dreams na o' the cauld wind o' the mountain, whilk will rush aboon it, dryin' the dew and carryin' awa' its tender leavis.

"My fair chiel' I namit Esther Douglas; thereby commemoratin' my spouse, and my mither whilk is i' heaven. She grew fair as a lily, and promisit mony and mony happy days to me. When she had reachit her fourteenth year, her mither Esther, my dear Ettie, wham I had wed frae my boyhood, was laid on her death-bed. She had been lin'erin' more than twa years wi' a disease i' the heart. Ane night she awakit wi' the heart-breakin' words: John, I canna live the night out; I shall di' before the sunrise; dinna gang for the doctor; it winna be o' ony use: my heart has been gnawit awa' by the consumption, and the last mairsel o't will gang to-night: I maun see Ettie afore I di'. Ah! that sweet chiel', she has niver causit me a tear-drap; I couldna gie ye, John, a better gift; and still I a'ways had a fear she wouldna di' weel; her spirit is sae gentle she couldna say nay to her enemy; watch o'er her, John; watch her wi' mair than a father's e'en; dinna influence her love; ye ken that you yoursel' maun hae di't, gin your father had sayit nay to the lo'e o' me. Mark me, John, be mair than a father to her; noo gang and ca' her, that I may bless my e'en wi' the sight o' her. God bless you and Ettie, John.' I tossit on my claies, like a daft mon; I flew to awak' the maid, and then to my dear little Ettie's chamber; dear chiel', she was asleep, wi' as douce a smile on her mou' as wad hae glinted on the lips o' Gabriel; I awakit her, and she went wi' me like a tremblin' dove to the bed o' Esther. We arrived there wi' fear in our hearts. There she lay i' her angelic beauty; there were her bright e'en, they expressit naithin'; there were her red lips, they movit not; there was her lily haun', it was cauld, cauld. Ettie turnit and weepit on my breast; she kent the truth; we arrivit too late; her mither's gentle spirit had flown aloft to plead for us i' heav'n."

A convulsive burst of grief rent the bosom of Maxwell; in a few minutes more he was calm.

"Do not," said I, while the tears were streaming from my own eyes,