proportion of about one-fifth, the latter being either the Vionnier, Marsanne, or the Roussanne; Bordeaux, Cabernet-Sauvignon in the proportion of two-fifths, the remaining third being the Malbec, Mer

lot, or the Verdot. In South France the Aramon is the prevailing variety and is associated in the proportion of about one-third with Petit-Bouschet or the Alicante-Bouschet. In the same region the Carignan and Grenache are employed to correct the excess of sugar and resulting alcohol in the varieties first named.

It will be seen from the above that in the more advanced viticultural departments of France the number of varieties grown is comparatively limited.

GRAPE GATHERING.-Of the various steps in wine-making grape gathering is chronologically the first and is also the most important. The quality of the wine-its keeping power, its composition and its distinctive aroma and bouquet-is more dependent on the condition of the grape as to maturity, and the precautions in gathering, than on any or all the subsequent steps in vinification.

Maturity of the Grape.-The period at which to gather the grape can only be determined by careful examination and experiment and will vary with different varieties, and under diverse conditions of climate and soil. The determination of the proper maturity of the grape is one of the most imFIG. 161. portant steps in successful wine-making. Picked too soon, must scale. there is an excess of acids and a corresponding lack in sugar, tes et Ruys- while the richness in sugar may be increased by late pick

The Baumé

(From Por

sen.)

ing.

In general the grapes are gathered when nourishment from the vine ceases. This condition is characterized by the brownish color of the base of the stem, the softening of the berry and its easy separation from the stem, and the translucent appearance of the skin. The juice, also, has lost its astringency and has become soft and sweet and somewhat sticky.

To determine with greater precision the best time for gathering, various instruments have been invented by the aid of which the proportion of sugar or acids in the must can be accurately estimated. The saccharoFIG. 162-The Gay-Lussac must scale manu meter or must scale in most common factured by Salleron. (From Rougier.) use and the oldest is the Baumé, a figure of which is given (Fig.

Density or degrees of

the must meter.

161). It consists of a closed graduated tube containing in the lower portion of the enlarged part mercury or lead, and this form of construction is followed in all other instruments of this class. The graduation of the Baumé instrument is altogether arbitrary, but by indicating the density of the must as compared with that of water it is possible to determine the degree of maturity of the must and to calculate the amount of alcohol that will result from its fermentation. The must will vary from 6° to 15°, the best wine being made from must indicating from 8° to 15°.

The must scale of Gay-Lussac, manufactured by M. J. Salleron, gives the density of the liquid direct, the density of water being indicated by the 0 mark, and by means of a table it is possible to approximate very closely the quantity of sugar contained in the must. This instrument is shown at Fig. 162.

The following table is shortened from one prepared by M. J. Salleron to accompany his apparatus and explains itself: Table employed with the Salleron (Gay-Lussac) must meter.

Per cent.
6

6.8

1,060

.054

The correction of the must by the application of water or sugar, as indicated in columns 6 and 5, will be considered later on.

A third and very convenient must scale may be mentioned, viz, that of Jules Guyot. This instrument indicates at once, by means of three graduated columns on the stem, the degrees Baumé, the quantity of sugar contained in the must per hectoliter, and the amount of alcohol that will be produced per hectoliter.

This must scale, on account of the facility of its use and the multiplicity of the formation gained at once, is highly appreciated by the French wine-makers.

To determine the sugar content of the grapes a few bunches are gathered, representing as near as possible the average condition of the crop, and the juice is expressed and strained through linen or cotton cloth, collected in a suitable vessel, commonly of glass, and

the must meter plunged into it. The quality of the must will then be indicated on the stem of the must meter.

The grapes are tested from day to day until the density remains stationary, when it is time, generally speaking, to gather the crop.

The must meter is not only of service in determining the richness in sugar of the grape juice, but is also employed to measure the fermentation and to determine when the sugar contained in the must has been entirely transformed into alcohol, as will be shown later.

The general rule to gather the crop when complete maturity is reached has exceptions. In south France it is frequently found advisable to gather the crop before maturity to augment the amount of acid, which is generally lacking in grapes grown in that region, or if the variety ripens at different periods the crop is commonly gathered when one-half the fruit is well ripened. If the grapes become overripe before gathered it is the custom to correct the composition of the must by adding a certain proportion of some variety yet partly green. The presence of the under-ripe fruit causes in the freshly pressed wine a slightly disagreeable flavor, which, however, corrects itself and disappears with the aging of the wine. Without these precautions the wines of the Midi are poor in bouquet and body and deteriorate rapidly.

The character of the wine which it is desired to produce or the variety of grape also act to determine the degree of maturity at which to gather the crop. Thus certain varieties, as the Muscat and the Malvoisie, are allowed to become over ripe to develop the characteristic aroma of the wines produced from them; and in the case of American varieties having a foxy flavor this objectionable feature is diminished by early gathering.

Time. When it is possible to choose the most favorable time, gathering in the temperate regions is done after a succession of fair days and in the morning as soon as the dew has disappeared. A moderate degree of warmth also facilitates and hastens fermentation In the very hot regions of southern France cloudy weather is preferable if rain does not fall, as moisture of rain or dew on the berries greatly prejudices the wine. In excessively hot countries, as in Algiers, it is recommended to gather the grapes early in the morning or late in the evening or at night, or at least to allow them to stand and cool over night before putting them into the fermentation casks. The objectionable effect of the presence of dew on the grapes is stated to be not so much from the introduction of a certain amount of water, but in part from the introduction of germs floating in the atmosphere prejudicial to the wine, but chiefly because the grapes are too cold to enter readily into fermentation.

Instruments and Methods.-The instruments employed to detach the bunches are the curved knife used in pruning the vines, the ordinary pocket-knife, and small shears. The latter are considered

much preferable and are rapidly gaining in popularity. The use of the knife is objectionable because of its jarring the bunch and frequently causing more or less of the berries to fall off.

The grapes as gathered (and this work is commonly done by women and children) are collected in tin or wooden vessels of various forms, and in choice wine districts the greatest precautions as to cleansing of the utensils is taken, together with the apparatus used in the subsequent crushing and pressing of the grapes, to prevent the introduction of any foreign taste of wood or mold, etc.

The tin pails (Fig. 163) are preferred because they will retain the juice, which never fails to escape when the grapes are allowed to fall from any height, or when the vessel is overfilled.

The grape gatherers empty their vessels into large wooden tubs or receiving vats (Fig. 165), having a capacity of from 20 to 80 kilograms, and constructed in a variety of styles.

A grape-gathering force consists of the cutters or gatherers proper and the carriers. The latter receive the grapes in the larger vessels

named, and sort them and transport them to the carts. They also oversee and direct the work of the cutters. In Bourgogne one carrier suffices for five cutters. In south France, where the yield is more abundant, the number of cutters to one carrier is reduced to three or four. In south France, also, the grapes are frequently emptied by the cutters directly into special carts.

In vineyards noted for their fine wines the sorting of the grapes is done with the utmost care as they are gathered either in the vineyard or at the cellar. In the former case the gatherers have special vessels to receive the injured, diseased, or unripe berries, or those soiled with earth or sulphur.

It was formerly more frequently the case than at present to gather the grapes at successive periods as they ripened. This method is now chiefly restricted to those noted vineyards which produce wines of such value that it is advisable to take every precaution in gathering and subsequent treatment to develop the special qualities of their wine products. Thus at Bordeaux the system of gathering is more complicated, and the maturity of the grapes at gathering varies

greatly in the production of the celebrated red and white wines of this region.

To obtain the rich, mellow, almost oily characteristics of the famous white wines of Sauterne not only are six or seven distinct gatherings made, but the grapes must be more than completely ripe. and in fact so dried by the action of the sun that almost one-half of their watery contents has been dissipated. The producers of the best wines of Champagne, Médoc, and Bourgogne use similar precautions, all of which is quite the opposite of the wholesale and somewhat careless methods of the Midi in the production of ordinary and cheap wines.

WINE MAKING PROPER.

THE CELLAR AND FURNITURE.-The building in which the must is fermented and the wine made is termed in France, as also in this country, a cellar. It is also commonly called a cuverie, from cuve, a vat or tub. As temperature has an important bearing on the fermentation of the must, it is the important feature taken into account in the location and construction of the cellar. Effort is made to control the interior temperature and also protect the building from the changing temperature of the outer air.

In the Mediterranean region, and also elsewhere in France, the cellar is commonly constructed on a hillside in such manner that one side is in part embedded in and protected by the soil. This arrangement allows the grape carts to be taken directly into the upper or press room of the cuverie. The building is still further protected from exterior heat by attached sheds and also by planting rows of trees about it. The use of double-storied buildings also greatly assists in the control of the temperature. In these the grapes are unloaded in the upper story and introduced through traps into the tuns or vats in the basement story. The control over the temperature is still further increased by constructing the buildings with double walls and by introducing the air for ventilation through flues opening at or below the surface of the ground. The dimensions of the cuverie vary with the extent of the vineyard and the size of the casks employed. It is usually made three or four times as long as wide. The height of the lower room is that of the wine casks or tuns augmented by about one meter. The casks are commonly elevated 75 centimeters on supports, which would leave a space of 25 centimeters between them and the ceiling.

In the less heated regions of France, including the southwest, center, and east, it is frequently necessary to protect the wine cellars from too low temperature rather than too high. The same means are employed, viz, double walls, exterior protection, etc., and the openings are confined to the southern facade of the building.

In certain regions, particularly in south France, where the quan