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them were a number of Greek priests, ets. Mothers were nursing their some of them good-looking young infants, clucking over their wanderfellows, whose long black hair, ar- ing children like a hen over its ranged in a Greek knot at the back brood, lugging their beds around the of their heads, and black robes, gave deck. Some were eating their eventhem a very girlish look. There ing meal of coarse bread in great
SALAMIS, ('YPRUS, A TYPICAL SCENE IN ('YPRIOTE WATERS,
were old men and old women in furlined cloaks carrying their belong. ings and provisions in large round baskets. Some of the men wore baggy Turkish trousers, red fez and girdle and bright embroidered jack
hunks, with a bit of cheese or a few onions. Some were clothed in rag. ged embroidered finery and adorned with cheap jewellery; others had good gold watches.
A handsome, bejewelled woman
was gossiping with several other the loveliest symphony in blues that well-dressed pilgrims of her own can be conceived. sex, all smoking cigarettes. One It did our hearts good to see the venerable figure mounted guard red-cross flag floating from the fort over his wife and a large family of at Larnica and from the British children. Another made a very ships anchored in the harbour. comfortable nest for his young wife
" It seemed like a friendly hand and was keeping vigil at her side
Stretched out from one's native land.” whenever I passed. The pilgrims beguiled the tedium of the voyage A number of British red-coats with a strange variety of singing, came aboard, including a magnifimostly of a plaintive, monotonous cent band. They were going to character, accompanied by odd-look Limasol to play at that British ining string or percussion instruments. stitution, the races. They furnished Between decks was equally crowded. us some good music while on board, A couple of monkeys, a brown bear, and a very companionable lot of parrots and other live stock added men they were. There are five hunto the confusion. I thought I was a dred troops in Cyprus, we were told, lover of my kind, but the crowded, but they find it very dull camping sordid and often squalid groups and and drilling on that hot and arid vile smells made me doubt it.
country. Most of them are from the Our voyage to Constantinople cov. larger cities of England, and they ered about a week, in which time do not like the isolation of the island. we became quite well acquainted The old Gothic convent of La Pais with our very interesting fellow- is grandly situated on a bluff five travellers. Quite a number of dis- hundred feet above the sea. The an. tinct languages were spoken and cient cloisters and vast halls, with a great variety of costumes worn. their Gothic tracery, are noteworthy A magnificently dressed Egyptian reminders of the gallant crusaders. dragoman, a very accomplished Our word “copper” (Latin, cuGreek gentleman, a German phy. prum) comes from the name Cyprus, sician, who had spent some years because its chief source of wealth in Persia, with two charming ladies in former times was its mines of of his family, a half-dozen post- copper. Its cedars are said to have graduate students from Berlin Uni. surpassed those of Lebanon, but its versity, and a number of American forests have almost entirely disapand English travellers, made a very peared. As a consequence the rainagreeable party.
fall has been greatly lessened, and The day after leaving Beyrout what does fall flows rapidly away, the outline of Cyprus came into carrying with it the fertile soil view. We skirted all day its rather into the sea. Cyprus is in all probabarren and arid coast, with quaint bility the Chittim or Kittim of the old fortresses, as at Kyrenia, and Bible mentioned in Genesis x. 4. picturesque mountain background, Baalam in his prophecy (Numbers over-arched by a bright blue sky. xxiv. 24) speaks of the ships of
But nothing can describe the Chittim attacking Assyria; and in intense ultramarine of the waves, Isaiah xxxi. 13 Chittim is reprenor the vivid contrast presented by sented among the fleets of Tyre. the snowy lace-work where they Its chief town is yet called Citium, broke into foam. This is an ever or Chittim, as well as Larnica. present source of astonishment and Here is shown the grave of Lazdelight in all these Levantine waters. arus, who, having been raised from The purple waves, the azure moun. the dead, for fear of the Jews fled to tains and the ethereal sky present Cyprus and became bishop of Citium.
Barnabas and St. Catharine are also Salamis, another port in the island said to be buried on this island. Here of Cyprus, is mentioned in Acts xiii. General Cesnola discovered a vast 5, as the scene of the preaching of quantity of precious relics of ancient Paul, as shown in our cut on page art, glass and pottery, which may 6. It presents a typical example of be seen in the Metropolitan Museum the lovely water vistas, often seen in New York. The present popula- among the isles of Greece. tion is about 180,000, of whom one Next night we reached the famthird are Greek Christians and the ous island of Rhodes, or “the land rest Moslems. In ancient times the of roses." This is one of the most population is said to have been one beautiful and picturesque isles of the million, and under British rule it Levant. It is famous as the strongmay be expected to increase. Its hold for two centuries of the Knights
exports are wine, silk, olive oil, of St. John, and is the scene of madder and fruit.
one of the most heroic defences on The sunset view of Limasol, with record. its fine mountain background in the The city of Rhodes has an imposafterglow of the crimson light on ing appearance when viewed from wave and shore, was exceedingly the sea. It is built in the form of impressive. In the foreground lay an amphitheatre on ground rising the pleasant villas and commercial from the water, and has a moat and buildings of the pretty town, white. castle of great size and strength, sailed vessels skimmed to and fro. and is surrounded by a wall and Our British red.coats, being rowed towers. Some of the old stone houses ashore in large open boats, accentu- of the Knights are still to be seen ated the beauty of the scene by the in what is known as “The Street of bright colour of their tunics.
the Knights,” bearing their armorial