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summer cottages in this locality, blue, at once refreshing for bathing most of which are owned by citizens and of the best drinking quality. of Toronto.
It is a characteristic of the AngloPassing through the Narrows we Saxon race, when travelling, either enter Bala Bay, and after a two- for adventure or mere pleasure, to hours' sail reach the pretty village penetrate as deep as possible into the of Bala, which is situated at the forest, or to reach the source of river junction of Muskoka Lake and the or head of lake, in order to see what Muskosh river.
is at the other end, or in the hope of Port Carling is a picturesque little reaching some spot, fairer or conhamlet situated on the Government taining even wilder beauty than the locks between Lake Rosseau and the scene just passed. So, as we look Indian River. The Port has a free around the spacious deck of our public library and reading-room staunch craft, as the whistle sounds, with about four hundred volumes of and casting off from the wharf the standard works, and the leading prow again heads northward, we Toronto dailies, as well as Harper's, find that a large party of eager and Century and other magazines and mirthful travellers still remains on papers.
board. Our curiosity is soon gratiAs the steamer leaving Port Car- fied, for as we swing into mid-stream, ling emerges from the Indian River or mid-lake, we soon descry in the into Rosseau Lake, a glimpse of gathering gloom of evening “a Windermere may be seen across the house set upon a hill,” the wellfour-mile intervening stretch of
of known Summit House, of Port Cockwater. About two miles away is burn, on a bold promontory, half the summer residence of Senator W. hidden by grand monarch pines E. Sanford. The Naiad, the pri- and beautiful shade trees. vate steam yacht owned by Senator One of the most noticeable feaSanford, cost $10,000, and is one of tures of Muskoka life is the “shopthe fastest boats on the lakes.
ping." You do not go to the store in The lower part of Lake Rosseau Muskoka, but as in the case of Mais gemmed with numerous beautiful homet's Mountain, the store comes islets and has been appropriately to you, and never was any village called Venetia, as the only mode of general store so stocked with the travel by the many cottagers on delicacies and necessaries of life as these isles is by water. Ferndale are those of the welcome and wellhere nestles in a deep sheltered bay. known “supply boats,” of which From the summer cottages on the there are two plying on the lakes high cliffs very extended and pleas- and calling on all the hotels, cottages ing vistas are to be seen.
and camps, delivering goods and Chief among the beauties of Ros- taking orders as your butcher and seau, and reached by a few strokes grocer does in town. The stores of the paddle is the romantic Shadow are shipped at Rosseau and Port River, where every leaf and twig is Carling, and distributed thence over reproduced with such startling fidel- the lakes. The daily “supply trips” ity as to induce the curious to dip are often availed of by parties depaddle or oar below the surface to siring a pleasant sail on the lakes, distinguish the substance from the the boats calling at many islands shadow. While the colour of Lakes and passing through channels and Muskoka and Rosseau is dark, that scenes of beauty, rarely, if ever, of Lake Joseph is a beautiful clear reached by the larger boats.
rent, wished myself back among the Thousand Islands again. Loitering
past the much-needed, but little FROM the St. Lawrence to the used, “City Bathhouse" floating on Columbia is more than two thousand its platform of logs, all at once the miles, but in these days when the yellow of fresh-hewn pine struck earth is shrinking so fast, that is my eyes, and before me lay a log only a trifle; so that not long after canoe. Beside it stood three men making up my mind to visit the in their shirt-sleeves, deep in conBig Bend gold region I found myself sultation and broiling in the sun. at Farwell on the Columbia, the They had just come to the city nearest point by rail. But here for supplies. In five minutes they commenced my troubles. Laporte, were persuaded to go up to Laporte; the gateway to the mines, was only and in consideration of the sum of fifty miles up the river. From the $12.50 I became a fourth partner in mountains opposite, one could almost the dug-out, with the understanding see it far away in the long valley; that I should provision myself and but it seemed as hard to reach as do my share of the navigation. the sources of the Nile.
When Farwell learned our intenHeartily tired of the ugly and tions it took a sudden interest in us. wicked little place, with its log All the loafers and railway men, saloons and gambling hells crowded and they made up nine-tenths of the with navvies of all nations eager city, proceeded to give us advice, to spend their hard earnings as fast often emphasized with profanity. and as viciously as possible, I wan. "They were going up to the Big dered one hot morning along the Bend too, when the river went down; river, and, watching its muddy cur- but to attempt it now, with the river
* Reprinted from the Chautauquan.
the town to avoid curiosity, we made friends who had offered such good ready to start. The flour and advice. There was no help for it beans and pork, the tent and rolls but to land, and when we stood on of blankets, and “dunnage bags” shore again, surely four more diswith our few personal effects were consolate men were not to be found stowed in the canoe as she tugged in all British Columbia. But we at the rope. The French-Canadian were not to be beaten in this ridicraftsman, whom we had chosen ulous way. Slowly we uncoiled the captain, took his place at the stern; eighty feet of tow-rope, and throwing an ex-army sergeant and I laid our the end over our shoulders, the serclumsy oars in the row-locks; the geant and I trudged off, dragging the fourth man, letting go the line, dug.out, with the other two men as
crew, against the stiff current. When shoutings of the waters. We did I had been told the day before that not stop long to admire, but landed, taking passage by canoe meant two of us taking the rope and walking along the shore and pulling picking our way along the rocks the canoe after me, I had laughed till we reached a good foothold. at the idea. But even this was not Then, bracing ourselves, we hauled the worst. The strip of muddy the canoe up, hand over hand, while beach failed before long and we the other two kept her in the right had to scramble along the top of course with poles and breast-line. the high bank, passing the line Point after point was slowly gained, around projecting bushes and over- till at last in the turmoil of a heavier hanging trees. At one point the fall than usual the breast-line broke crumbling bank gave way under and the canoe swung out into the my feet and I found myself up to breakers and filled with water. the hips in the water. Our respect The sergeant and I could no longer for the Columbia had very much hold her. We were dragged over heightened when toward the close the rocks and were on the point of of the second day we camped at the letting go when fortunately she foot of the Dalles, only five miles dropped into an eddy and was once from Farwell. The spot was won- more under control. The oars and derfully beautiful. The great paddles were washed away, revolved Columbia valley had steadily nar- a minute in the whirling eddy, and rowed as we advanced, till here the then went down stream. mountains of the Gold Range to the our breath again, bailed out, and west crowded close against the rug- watching till the current slackened ged Selkirks to the east, jostling the a little, triumphantly dragged the angry river into a narrow canyon. canoe past the point, into smoother
A sharp bend hid the rapids from water above. And so the struggle view, but the hoarse roar and the went on till about noon, when the rags of white foam that came to us, worst was passed ; and pulling our foretold what was ahead. In the battered craft into a little side eddy where we landed there was a canyon we gave a wild hurrah for strange and ominous fluctuation of our victory. the water, at one moment sweeping A tramp through the woods in toward shore, then withdrawing brought us once more to the camp till the canoe was stranded in the at the foot of the rapids, where we mud. It seemed like the frightened dined more sumptuously than usual, breathing of a creature just escaped on a porcupine which had been so from danger.
unlucky as to come within range of Next morning came the first the Frenchman's rifle. We felt ourordeal. Our canoe, too heavy to lift, selves heroes and imagined ourselves must be dragged up the rapids. already at Laporte, able to laugh We paddled through the slack at the prophets of evil in Farwell. water of the eddy and round the The afternoon's work of portaging rocky point; and there lay our our effects, which weighed about six work before us, a mile, of rapids hundred pounds, somewhat damped foaming like the sea in a storm, our ardour however. Heavily loaded, chafing against black projecting we toiled up the steep hillside, rocks, whirling past steep parts of following the course of a long overthe canyon wall, now rushing in grown portage path. The last trip with fury, then smooth and glassy was over just as evening came on, with strange upboilings from below. and my sympathy for hod-men and We had to speak loud to make our pack-mules was never more profound voices rise above the din and than at that moment.
smooth that nothing without wings the rapids half a mile below, in could make its way along the steep, which case none of us might have rocky wall; while our rope would come through alive. My plan car. not reach around. Its base was ried and we made ready for the swept by a fierce current against venture. A moment's hesitation which our oars were useless. We and then off! We had little time to