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lending their efforts in the direction of the Malakoff Tower which commands Sebastopol and the shipping. Meantime, General Canrobert went back to France. The English forces remained under the orders of General Simpson. The Allies are fearful of the part Austria may play, and have prepared an agreement that neither of them shall make any separate peace with the Czar. The allied fleet in the Baltic bombarded Sweaborg on the 9th and 10th of August, burned the arsenals and stores, and damaged the fortifications. But they did not attempt to land any troops. It does not seem that the strength of the fortress was impaired; while the show of success implied in burning the houses and stores would appear to have been effected as some means of meeting the expectations of the people of England and France. Sweaborg is a cluster of fortified island rocks guarding the entrance to the harbor of Helsingfors, and is considered to have a garrison of 10,000 men. It is called the Gibraltar of the North. The rocks and the country all round the harbor are planted with cannon. The English emphatically term it "a nasty place to get into," which is very true, even after the bombardment.

The English Parliament was prorogued on 14th August to 23d October, and on 17th, Queen Victoria and her consort steamed over to France by way of Boulogne, to pay their promised visit to the emperor of the French. The latter having seen that the fête Napoleon, of the 15th of August, was celebrated in Paris with illuminations, free theatres, charities distributed, and 2,000 prison sentences commuted, proceeded to Boulogne, where he met his visitors on 18th with a splendid show of hospitality-exhibiting one more astonishing evidence of the mutability of

human fortune. In that town of Boulogne, a few short years ago, that very emperor was seen scampering pell-mell through the streets, shouting for his uncle, with his hat on the point of a sword, and the rabble and the officers of the town tearing, hotfoot, after him to make him a prisoner! In that little town they thrust him into a guard-house, laughing all the time! Queen Victoria remained his guest for a week and then went back. The Archbishop of Canterbury could not preach to her a more emphatic sermon on the uncertainties of life, than that festive reception may have done on the banks of the Seine.

Denmark, in view of the American threats to pass the Sound and pay no more dues, has been applying to the Emperor of France for advice and assistance.

The Pope of Rome had set his face against the English project of recruiting a legion in his dominions, and the King of Naples leans so much to Russia that England and France have been warning him.

With regard to the resolution of Russia, a Russian newspaper seems to express it in the words, "We may now look for great events and horrifying recitals."

About 150 bales of American cotton, going from Antwerp toward Russia, were opened at Aix and found to hold a quantity of concealed revolvers-intended by some of our people for the Czar. As the thing was made public, the King of Prussia was obliged to confiscate them.

When the allied fleet went to Petropaulousky, last July, they found the place deserted. Having demolished the forts and public buildings, they came away in the direction of San Francisco.

Review of New Books.

Maud, and other Poems. By Alfred Tennyson, | ter. The verse varies with the changing moods of
D. C. L., Poet Laureate. Boston: Ticknor &
Fields. 1 vol. 16mo.

The principal poem in this volume will disappoint those lovers of Tennyson who are accustomed to prize his works for their daintiness and melody of expression. It is at times harsh and hard in style, morbid in sentiment, and discontented in tone. It lacks the sensuousness, the harmony, the satisfying completeness and rounded grace, so characteristic of Tennyson in his ordinary poetic moods. In writing it he seems to have been in what our Yankees call a cantankerous" state, compounded of self-disgust and disgust with society. But it, is still a poem of genius and power, and is, perhaps, all the more striking from its eccentric deviations from the Tennysonian ideal of poetry. The story is nothing, or next to nothing, considered as a plot, being formed of the commonest materials. The value of the few incidents comes from their being the occasion for the expression of thoughts, sentiments, passions, charac

mer.

the hero. He is introduced as a young misanthrope, disappointed and indignant, railing against the world in lines as rugged as those of Chapman's HoThe stages of his passion for Maud are indicated by a series of poems, which grow more harmonious as his nature becomes harmonized by love. The pieces, commencing "I have led her home, my love, my only friend," and "Come into the garden, Maud," have the exquisite melody of ecstatic feeling and imagination. Then succeeds disappointment, remorse and madness, all of which are painted with a fine adaptation of the rhythm to the mood. The concluding piece returns to the fierce, defiant spirit, and rugged verse of the commencement. The hero, recovering from madness, launches out into savage denunciations of the vices of peace, glorifies war, and expresses his determinatiou to join the crusade against the lying Russians. We hardly know whether the author intends some of the sentiments of the poem as expressions of his own bitter feelings,

or simply as utterances of an imagined character, whose misery and misanthropy make them artistically appropriate, however morally false.

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Of the other poems in the volume, "The Ode on the Death of the Duke of Wellington," and "The Charge of the Light Brigade," are already well known. "The Brook" is a beautiful, tender and To the simple idyl. "The Daisy," and the verses Rev. F. D. Maurice," are excellent. "The Letters" flash with electric passion. A few lines on "Will" complete the volume. As a whole, the book will not probably satisfy the admirers of Tennyson; but though it may not add to his fame, it will by no If not equal to "In Memomeans detract from it. rium," or even "The Princess," the principal poem still exhibits an intensity of passion and rugged manliness of tone, the possession of which is not implied in the author's previous poems.

Japan as it Was and Is. By Richard Hildreth, Author of "History of the United States," etc. Boston: Phillips, Sampson & Co. 1 vol. 12mo. Mr. Hildreth, with his accustomed laboriousness of research, has given in this volume the result of much reading, study and thought, and has produced the most complete work on Japan yet published. Adopting the historic method, he presents the country and inhabitants as seen by successive travelers and voyagers, from Pinto to Commodore Perry. In this way he contrives that his readers shall see Japan from every point of view, and a raciness is given to much of the information by conveying it in the expressive language of the early voyagers themselves. A good map of Japan is contained in the volume.

one third. Compared with Byron, Moore, Scott, Campbell, it cannot be said that Shelley is a popular poet, but his warmest and most earnest admirers are on this side of the Atlantic, and he is fast growing into popularity. The moral intensity of his spirit, the delicacy and depth. of his sentiment, the quickness, force, refinement, fertili y and dazzling glow of his imagination, and the wide reaching yet subtle sympathies of his philanthropy, have made him, in spite of the crystal clearness and purity of his style, a poet for poets rather than for ordinary readers. People, at first, find it difficult to follow the windings of his thinking, and become perplexed amid the flash and throng of his splendid imaginations; but as the eye becomes accustomed to his dazzling manner, the difficulty and perplexity vanish, and high enjoyment begins.

Herbert, "holy George Herbert," one of the most poetic of divines and most divine of poets, is a faver ite with all thoughtful and devotional spirits. The singular depth, refinement and quaint beauty of he religious meditations, make his poems worthy of continual study, and his readers always love and revere as well as admire him. His works stimulate spiritual curiosity, evoke religious sentiment, awAken religious reflection, and enrich the heart and imagination with new life as well as novel though's

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We should know by the courage, earnestness, and reforming spirit, impressed on every page of this covel, that the name on the title page referred to as L of Dr. Arnold, of Rugby. There is a relationsh

Bits of Blarney. By R. Shelton Mackenzie. both of blood and mind between the two, which is New York: Redfield 1 1 vol. 12mo.

The title of this volume is a key to its contents.
It is a series of Irish stories, legends and sketches,
written by an Irishman, and full of Irish raciness
and fun. Dr. Mackenzie is well known as the editor
of the "Odoherty Papers," "Sheil's Sketches of the
Irish Bar,"
," and other works which Redfield has
published. Among the articles in this volume, are
two on Irish statesmen, Henry Grattan and Daniel
O'Connell. These are as full of interesting informa-
tion, as the other articles are of humor.

The British Poets. Shelley and George Herbert.
Boston: Little, Brown & Co. 4 vols. 16mo.
The last issues of Little & Brown's elegant edition
of the British Poets, are devoted to Shelley and
Herbert; the former in three volumes, the latter in

one.

Mrs. Shelley's carefully edited edition of her husband's works, containing all his poems chronologically arranged, with admirable notes and introductions, forms the basis of the American edition. The life of Shelley is by James Russell Lowell. This is the only good edition of the poet which has been issued in the United States. The type is large, the paper white, and the general mechanical execution equal to the English edition, while the price is only

apparent to the least critical reader of Oakfeli"
In the form of a story, which is not without exciting
scenes and attractive characters, the author pistars
the English in India, from a new point of vier
Though in discussing and portraying practical afaT!
he evinces some of the rawness and virtuous intoleran e
of youth, his representation is in the main accurus,
and cannot fail to produce good effects. Mary pe
sons will be surprised at the statements in the bask
regarding the morals and manners of the officers of
many regiments in the Indian army; and as English
officers are wont to pride themselves especially ra
being gentlemen, it is not surprising that Lieut. Ar
nold's exhibition of so many of them in the charmend
of bullies, blackguards, and drunkards, should ha
roused their ire, and sent the book through two el-
tions. The special value of the work, apart from is
picture of British society in India, consists in the
fact that its hero attempts to carry out in pract
life the principles and sentiments of religion; and
obstacles to such an undertaking, presented by
conventionally good as well as the convert
bad, are described with uncommon force and ac
ness. The scenes of the duel and the court-mar
are grand examples of the hero's true heroism.
think the volume must delight all thoughful rest

A Memoir of the Rev. Sydney Smith. By his daughter, Lady Holland. With a selection from his Letters. Edited by Mrs. Austin. New York: Harper & Brothers. 2 vols. 12mo.

Few biographies, which have been issued during the last half century, are more stimulating and delightful than this of Sydney Smith. The excellence of the book comes rather from the character of the nan than the merit of its execution. Lady Holland, by merely gossiping about the life of her father, without any attempt at a formal narrative, has proluced a work which can be read and re-read with continual pleasure. It is as full of characteristic inecdotes and brilliant sayings as might have been expected from the subject, and it is full also of incilents which declare the genial and noble disposition of the man. Those who have considered Sydney Smith simply as a wit and humorist, will rise from his Memoir with the impression that his vast powers of ridicule were wielded always in the service of social and political reform, and that it was as a horoughly honest man that he is most to be esteemed The letters, which Mrs. Austin has carefully edited, are full of pith, nerve, sense, observation, and humor, and are in every respect worthy expressions of his beautiful and brilliant mind.

Land, Labor, and Gold: or Two Years in Victoria.
With Visits to Sydney and Van Dieman's Land.
By William Howitt Boston: Ticknor &
Fields. 2 vols. 16mo.

Speeches and Addresses. By Henry W. Hilliard.
New York: Harper & Brothers 1 vol. 8vo.
This handsome octavo, which, in form and general
mechanical execution, resembles a volume of Ban-
croft or Prescott, and excels in elegance the volumes
in which the speeches of Webster and Calhoun are
collected, contains the Congressional Speeches of Mr.
Hilliard, from 1846 to 1851, and some additional ad-
dresses on miscellaneous topics. Without any decided
vigor, originality or grasp of thought, they are far
above the average political speeches of the time, in
the spirit by which they are animated, and the feel-
ings they address. They have none of the ferocity
of sectional and partisan warfare, and in style and
To Mr. Hilliard's
temper are worthy of respect.
personal friends and constituents the volume must be
very acceptable, but they present no striking pecu-
liarities to enforce attention from the public. The
great speeches of Webster and Calhoun are events as
well as orations; they are read because they are
portions of history, as well as master-pieces of state-
ment and reasoning; and they are collected in a per-
manent form because they obtained, as separately
published, a wide and splendid fame.

Habits and Men. With Remnants of Record,
touching the Makers of Both. By Dr. Doran,
Author of "Table Traits," &c. New York:
Redfield. 1 vol. 12mo.

This is a volume of entertaining literary and antiquarian gossip on topics connected with character, disposition, and dress-full of shrewd, bright sayings and pleasant anecdotes, and written in a style of much careless felicity. The chapters on the Stage,

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"Wigs and their Wearers," "Hats," Beards," "Swords," "Stockings," "The Tiring Bowers of Queens," "Beaux," and "Touching Tailors," are replete with information and with humor The biographical notices of the tailors-heroic, martial, naval, antiquarian, official, poetical, and thea

William Howitt went to Australia for the purpose
of making money; but, as might have been expected
from an author, he made a book instead. The gold
would not come to him, but thoughts did; and, ac-
cordingly, we have here the most vivid, the most
accurate, the most valuable, and the most entertain-
ing work on the subject, that has yet been written
It describes life, scenery, manners, customs, charac-
ter, modes of conveyance, "diggings," so perfectly,trical-are especially delightful.
that one need not go to Australia if he merely de-
sires to know about it. He can have a realizing
sense and experience of all its advantages and dis-
comforts by simply following the steps and looking
through the eyes of Mr. Howitt. Those who have
read the author's previous works, need not be told
of his crabbed independence of character; and this
quality is exhibited in his present volumes more than
ever. The British system of colonial government,
and many of the officials of Australia, are criticised
with equal sagacity and courage; and some persons,
from whom in his plain clothes he received insults,
will find themselves unpleasingly prominent in the
book. So clearly is everything represented, that, in
reading the work, we are made as familiar with a
country thousands of miles off, as we are with New
York or Boston. We do not wonder at its popularity,
both in England and the United States

Letters to the Right Rev. John Hughes, Roman
Catholic Bishop of New York. Revised and
Enlarged. By Kirwan. New York: Harper
& Brothers. 1 vol. 12mo.

The author of these letters belongs to the Protestant Church Militant, or rather Church Pugilistic. The spirit of controversy is in his blood and bones, no less than his tongue. He is bold, vigorous, uncompromising; he is master of a style so simple, direct and strong, that everybody can comprehend it; and he goes into a theological shindy with such evident heartiness and delight, that he drags his readers in by the inspiration of his example. The book will of course be especially interesting to those who agree with the author's opinions and share his prejudices.

Fashion.

Nor quite winter yet, but very, very near. Our autumn leaves have changed from their summer hue, but they have not fallen yet nor will they, but getting day by day more brilliant as they feel the approach of the frosts of gaunt winter, which will destroy them, they will have reached the very climax of gorgeous magnificence when at last they fall. Fashion, at least this year, has followed nature, and for its fair disciples, has produced unusually rich and magnificent hues and tissues.

In the summer fashions taste appeared to take its inspirations from the reign of Louis XV., with its Pompadour tints of delicate azure and blue, and its sentimental ashes of roses; but the autumn fashions have gone back to the deep shades and heavy textures of the sombre reign of Louis XIII., when Anne of Austria's magnificent tastes could never find silks rich enough, guipures heavy enough, or cambrics fine enough, to satisfy them. The wide-spreading skirt, the trimmings en quille, all come from the costume of that court (the courts then alone set and followed the fashions); even the head-dresses, with double puffs and ringlets, are taken from pictures of that day.

So that, in fact, with a little modernizing, fashion goes back century by century, up the stream of time, turning over the leaves of history, Arab fashion, as it searches for hints to guide its decrees. But to our task.

DRESSES, AND HOW THEY ARE MADE. Dresses are made with innumerable flounces, or with one very deep one, or with none at all-so that really fashion suits every taste.

Chiné silks, dark glacé silks, moire antiques, are the principal material. We have from Lyons silks made of such a width that it takes but two breadths to each skirt-these silks are the greatest novelties of the season, for interwoven in them are wreaths in velvet of a different color from the silk, and forming very broad stripes all round. For these dresses no basques have been prepared, but high, plain waists are worn, the wreath on the skirt being woven in a smaller pattern so as to meet fan-like on the bosom. The sleeves are made open from the shoulder to the wrist (the small wreath of velvet forming a border on each side), and they are then closed at equal distances by bows of velvet ribbon to match the color of the wreath.

With flounced dresses, basques are not so much worn as they have been; dresses with tight waists high to the throat, have supplied their places. Some of these are made with points behind and in front; others are made to be worn with long, broad sashes. A green glacé silk dress from Camille's (dressmaker to Victoria) had five flounces, on each flounce was a black moire antique ribbon, No. 12; this ribbon was edged on each side by a quilling of narrow black blonde, put on very full. The waist was made high

to the throat and quite plain; but bretelles of black moire antique ribbon, edged with deep black blonde, formed the trimming of this dress. The sleeves over which the epaulette of the bretelle fell were tight to below the elbow, when they widened into a deep frill trimmed to match the flounces. A black lace scarf, and a dark straw bonnet ornamented with purple grapes and black velvet, were destined to complete this toilette, in simple and perfeet taste.

Another novelty, is a dress of dark blue silk with two skirts. The upper skirt is trimmed all round with two rows of lace. The lace goes up each side en quille, forming four rows of lace, which are divided by bows of dark blue satin ribbon from the hip to the edge of the upper skirt. A high waist with bretelles of black lace lined with green, and sleeves open, like those described above, are closed with black lace and bows.

We have heavy silks sent to us from France with the deep fringe intended to trim the flounces worca in the stuff. These dresses are made with basques, and the silk trimming is so disposed as to fall round the waist and from the elbow to the wrist.

Moire antique dresses, which in plain colors as well as in very broad stripes are to be the dresses in best taste of the season, are all made without flounces With these, basquine waists will be universally worn, but there is a change in them. They are made much longer, some of them are trimmed with black lace of about half a yard deep reaching to the knees. A narrower lace heads this one, and then many a rich embroidery in jet on the silk, terminates the whole.

We have seen some mousseline de laines imported for the fall from France. We do not doubt their French origin, but unless Parisian taste has imbibe u some of the taste from its Eastern allies, we dʊubt much whether any of these fabrics will be worn by any one in Paris. Such wonderful combination ef color, such marvelous designs, such grotesque devers and figures, we have never yet seen. We ca not advise how to choose or how to apply such fabrics, to us they only appear fit for dressing-gowns or table

covers.

Moire antiques have come over to us in stripes of three quarters width each, the dark shade being in the centre of the stripe and diverging off into the very palest tint till it fades into white. There dresses are, of course, only intended for evening wear, and, therefore, are out of place as yet with us, for our evening parties have not as yet e menced.

Plain colors, says our Paris reporter, are m worn-green, dark blue and mode colors; chestral The empres brown, with scarlet and crimson who is considered the best dressed woman in M2

empire, is especially fond of lilac. Her dress one of her visits to the Exhibition, is thus describe! She wore a lilac glacé silk dress, chine, with w

at the edge of the three flounces, forming the trim- | of magical effect, though, of course, of extraordinary ming of this dress, was a broad white moire antique richness. ribbon. A mantilla of white silk had a heavy white and lilac fringe of three-quarters deep. Her Leghorn bonnet was trimmed with a light plume of peacock's feathers, fastened with a moire antique bow. These feathers, of which the ends only are taken, produce a most magical effect, and are one of the novelties of the season, as yet only worn by the empress.

SHAWLS, LACES, AND MANTIllas. China crape shawls, beautiful as they are, appear to have wearied the fashionable world. But the texture has been converted into mantillas, perfectly appropriate to the season. We have mantillas made of puffings of China crape, between two wide bands of velvet, headed by small gimps in jet, finished with heavy fringes, in which silk and jet are intermingled. We have moire antique mantillas, of much larger form, somewhat in the shape of a shawl, though fitting tightly at the shoulders, made of moire antique, on which rows of lace are placed as trimming, and over each lace flounce there falls a light jet fringe. Black is the universal color for mantillas. There is a beautiful trimming called moet trimming, made in silk, which is also an autumn novelty. In this moet fringe, made in all colors, a small jet bead is placed, imitating drops of dew. White barège shawls, lined with thin marceline silk, and trimmed with white guipure lace, are much worn for Fall dress. Opera and theatre cloaks will take the form of shawls, rather than of talmas, as formerly.

- It is important to all who frequent theatres or concerts, that they should provide themselves with an especial wrap for these occasions. First, it generally forms the whole of the toilet in this country, whence evening dress is abolished from public places, and then it saves the street mantilla of silk or velvet from the dust and the stains it would risk contracting, and also from all discoloration. White is the best color of such garments, as it allows of the bonnet being changed to any shade. White merinos, with an embroidery in silk braid, or in floss silk, with a lining of white silk, or white silk mantillas, with roses of swansdown, are pretty and appropriate. We have seen one prepared for Rachel's representations, of white moire antique, lined with white plush, and trimmed with a heavy fringe of white jet, which was

Black lace has also undergone a new invention, so as to fit it for autumn and winter. Round all the flowers of the pattern, in the guipure designs of lace, a narrow velvet is sown, marking out the pattern, and giving a heavy appearance to the lace. Such is the mania for the mixture of black velvet with everything, that even white lace is marked out in this way. The looms of Lyons can scarce suffice for the immense demand-and small velvets (Tom Thumb velvets, as they are called) are, in proportion, dearer than the wider ones.

GLOVES AND BONNETS.

A novelty in gloves has made its appearance, and yet not altogether a novelty, but an improvement. The mousquetaire gloves are now universally worn; or riding gloves, as we universally call them here, are made with velvet gauntlets-plain or richly embroidered, as in the magnificent days of three centu ries ago. The hard thick patent-leather, of which these gauntlets used to be made, is no longer used. These gloves are buttoned with three buttons, held together by a little chain. There is great luxury displayed in these buttons, which are beautifully enameled and set in gold, or in marchasite; oxidized silver, twined into forms worthy of Cellini, are also now the last fashion, both for sleeve, as well as for polka buttons.

Bonnets are all now made in dark crape, mixed with velvet. Brown is a favorite color, mixed with bright flowers and the never-changing black velvet. Almost all bonnets are worn with light voilettes of the color of the bonnet, attached to the edge. These voilettes or veils are composed of tulle, some embroidered in straw, some in jet, but the newest style consists in plain tulle, with several quillings of very narrow gauze ribbon of the same color. When thrown over the bonnet, this combination of ruches produces a charming effect. The most opposite combinations are to be found in the autumn bonnets; straw and velvet are to be worn all winter, and crape and velvet will even be tolerated side by side. Short bunches of ostrich feathers are to be worn on each side of the bonnet, and one or two are often used as inside trimmings, and when very short, mingling with the blonde facings, they are very be coming.

Nancy

This name can be done in chain-stitch, and will then be very quickly worked.

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