NORTE EAST VIEW OF TE DISTRICT OF FA PK, IN 80WABCONE.

JUNE.]

NORTH EAST VIEW OF THE DISTRICT OF FA-RE, IN HUAHINE, IN THE SOUTH SEAS.

HUAHINE is the most windward island of that group, which, by Captain Cook, was denominated the Society Islands, in honour of the Royal Society, at whose recommendation the voyages to the South Seas, which led to their discovery, were undertaken. At that period, both the island and its inhabitants presented a very different aspect from what they have since assumed. The intervening years have introduced Christianity, and many of the arts of civilized life; in consequence of which, the savage character has in a great measure disappeared. Much of the soil also is cultivated; and the natives are making rapid advances in the acquirement of useful knowledge, and in applying it to purposes beneficial to their interests, both in time and eternity.

In the month of June, 1818, this island was visited by several English Missionaries, among whom was Mr. William Ellis, from whose observations published in his late work, entitled Polynesian Researches, we extract the substance of the following account:

"We arrived at Huahine late on the evening of the 19th, and some of our party went on shore, but it was not till the morning of the 20th, that we reached the anchorage in Fa-re harbour.

"Here I looked abroad with new and mingled emotions on the scene in which I was to commence my labours, and probably spend the remainder of my life. The clear sky was reflected in the unruffled waters* of the bay, which was bordered with a fine beach strewed with various shells. The luxuriant convolvulus presenting its broad and shining leaves in striking contrast with the white coral and sand, spread across the beach even to the margin of the water, over which the slender shrub or the flowering trees often extended their verdant branches, while the groves of stately bread-fruit, and the clumps of umbrageous callophyllum, or tamanu trees, and the tall and gracefully waving cocoa nuts shaded the different parts of the shore.

138.-VOL. XII.

[1830.

"The district of Fa-re, bordering the harbour of the same name, is about a mile and a half, or two miles in length, and reaches from the shore to the centre of the island. It is bounded on the south by a range of mountains separating it from the district of Haapape, and on the north by the small district of Buaoa, whence a long, bleak point of land, called Faao, extending a considerable distance into the sea, and covered with tall cocoa-nut trees, add much to the beauty of the shore, and the security of the harbour. A ridge of inferior hills dividing the district in the centre, greatly increases the picturesque appearance of its

scenery.

"A small river rises on the northern side of this ridge, and flowing along the boundary between the two districts, meets the sea exactly opposite the northern entrance. Another stream, more broad and rapid, rises at the head of the principal valley, and flows in a circuitous course to the southern part of the bay. The district is well watered and wooded. The lower hills, at the time of our arrival, were clothed with verdure; and the mountains in the centre of the island, whose summits appeared to penetrate the clouds, were often entirely covered with trees. All was rich and luxuriant in vegetation, but it was the richness and luxuriance of a wilderness. Scarcely a trace of human culture could be seen.

"A few native houses were visible, but there were not probably more than ten or twelve in the district, and the inhabitants might be occasionally seen guiding the light canoe across the bay, or leisurely walking beneath the grateful shade of the spreading trees. They were the rude untutored tenants of the place; their appearance and their actions being in perfect keeping with the scenes of wildness by which they were surrounded. The only clothing most of them wore, was a girdle of cloth bound round the waist, while a shade of cocoa-nut leaves covered their foreheads. But notwithstanding these appearances, it was impossible to behold, without emotions, either the scenery or the inhabitants.

"The accompanying plate exhibits an

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accurate representation of the outline and scenery in the northern parts of the district and harbour, although it was taken at a period subsequently to our arrival, when the landscape had been improved, by partially clearing the ground near the shore, and erecting a number of houses.

"In the forenoon of the day, after we came to anchor, accompanied by Matapuupuu, we walked through the district in search of a house for Mr. Orsmond and myself, and at length selected one on the southern side of the bay, belonging to Taaroarii, the young chief of the island. Towards noon most of our goods were landed, and taken into our new habitation. It was a large oval building, standing within ten or twelve yards of the sea, without either partition or even sides, consisting simply of a large roof supported by three pillars along the centre, and a number round the sides. The floor was composed of stones, sand, and clay. Mr. and Mrs. Orsmond occupied one end, and we took up our abode in the other.

"When our goods, &c. were all brought under its cover, and the boats had returned to the ship, we sat down to rest, but could not avoid gazing on the scene around us, before we began to adjust our luggage. Large fragments of rock were scattered at the base of the mountains that rose on one side of our dwelling, the sea rolled within a few yards of the other; and in each direction along the shore, there was one wild and uncultivated wilderness. A pair of cattle that we had brought from New South Wales, with a young calf, all of which had been landed from the ship during the morning, were tied to an adjacent bread-fruit tree; two or three milch goats from Eimeo, fastened together by bands of hibiscus bark tied round their horns, had already taken their station on the craggy projections at the foot of the mountain, and were cropping the herbage that grew in the fissures of the rocks. One of our little ones was smiling in the lap of its native nurse, while the other was playing on the dried grass lying by the side of the boxes on which we were sitting; and the natives, under the influence of highly excited curiosity, thronged around us in such numbers as partially to impede the circulation of the air.

"Our first effort was to prepare some refreshment. The chiefs had sent us a present of bread-fruit and fish, but both required cooking. This was observed by a native youth about fourteen or fifteen years of age, who leaving the crowd came forward, and offered his service to dress some bread-fruit. We gladly accepted his offer,

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and, finding him faithful, he became our servant, and continued with us till we removed from the islands. Acquainted with his work, he fixed two large stones in the ground for a fire-place, and bringing a bundle of dry sticks from the adjacent bushes, lighted a fire between the stones, upon which he placed the teakettle. While he was thus employed, we removed some of the boxes, and piled up our luggage as well as we could, and the food being prepared, we sat down to a comfortable repast of fried fish, bread-fruit, plantains, cocoanut milk, and tea. As a beverage, we always preferred the latter, although the former is exceedingly pleasant.

"The large island of Raiatea lies immediately to the west of Fa-re harbour, and by the time we had finished our meal, the sun was partly hidden behind the high and broken summits of its mountains. This admonished us to prepare our sleeping place, as the twilight is short, and we were not sure of procuring light for the evening. The natives perceiving our intention, cut down four stout sticks from the neighbouring trees; these we fixed in the earthen floor, and fastening sheets and native cloth from one to the other, enclosed our bedroom. Two chests were then carried into it, upon which we spread our bed, making up one for the children, by the side of our own, on some packages that lay on the floor.

Having procured some cocoa-nut oil, as night approached, we prepared our lamp in the following manner. A small portion of cotton wool we wound round the thin stalk of the leaflet of a tree; a cocoa nut was then divided into two parts, one of which was filled with oil, and the stalk connected with the cotton was erected in the kernel, and ready to be lighted. These were the only kind of lamps we had for several years, but, though rude in appearance, they gave a good light, when kept steady, and sheltered from the wind. Shortly, however, after sun-set this evening, the land breeze came down from the mountain with more violence than we had expected, and having no shelter for our lamp, we found some difficulty in keeping it burning; but, tying with strips of bark, to prevent its being blown aside, at an early hour we retired to rest. Here, notwithstanding the novelty of our situation, the exposure to the breeze from the mountains, the roaring of the heavy surf on the reefs, the inroads of pigs, dogs, and natives, with no other shelter than the screen and a pile of boxes, we passed a comfortable night, and

our screen down

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The effects produced among these simple children of nature, by the introduction of Christianity, Mr. Ellis in a subsequent part of the same chapter thus describes.

"The island of Huahine had, in common with the others forming the group, been visited by Mr. Nott, who had travelled round it, preaching to the inhabitants of the principal villages. The Missionaries who had been expelled from Tahiti had remained here for some months prior to their final departure for Port Jackson; but at these periods only a temporary impression had been made on the minds of the people, which had in a great degree, if not altogether, subsided. After the abolition of idolatry in Tahiti and Eimeo, and the subsequent adoption of Christianity by their inhabitants, Mahine, the king of Huahine, had sent down Vahaivi, one of his principal men, with directions to the chiefs to burn the idols, demolish the temples, and discontinue the ceremonies and worship connected therewith. This commission was executed, and not only were these objects of worship destroyed, their temples thrown down, the houses of their idols consumed, and idol-worship no longer practised; but the rude stills employed in preparing ardent spirits from the sugar-cane and other indigenous productions, were either broken or hid under ground. Intoxication, infant murder, and some of their more degrading vices, indulged under the sanction of their superstition, were discontinued.

"This change, although approved and effected by the principal chiefs on the islands, in conjunction with the messengers of the king, was nevertheless partially opposed. Several chiefs of inferior influence, collecting their dependants, encamped on the lake near Maeva, and threatened to avenge the insult offered to the gods, by attacking the chiefs who had sanctioned their destruction. Both parties, however, after assuming a hostile attitude for some time, adjusted their differences, and returned peace to their respective districts, mutually agreeing to embrace Christianity, and wait the arrival of the Missionaries, whose residence among them they had been led to

in

expect,

any degree its moral restraints, or its sacred influence. A few, including two or three who had been at Eimeo, had acquired the elements of reading, or had learned to repeat lessons in the spelling book, more from memory than any acquaintance with spelling and reading. The rest were nearly in the same state in which they were when visited in 1808 and 1809, excepting that their superstitious ceremonies were discontinued, and they had a building for the worship of the true God.

"For many Sabbaths after our arrival, but few of the inhabitants assembled for public worship, and the schools were very thinly attended. Those who came were so little acquainted with the gospel, that in the lessons given in the school, and the addresses delivered to assemblies met for worship, it was found necessary to begin with the first principles of instruction, and of Christianity. Numbers excused themselves from attending, on the account of the wearisomeness of learning their letters; but there was every reason to believe, that their unwillingness arose from a disinclination to conform to the precepts which were uniformly inculcated. They usually neglected public worship, because they said they did not know how to read; this being considered a sufficient apology for the nonobservance of the Sabbath, and of the social duties of religion. Such neglect was also frequently used as a cover for their vices. When questioned on the impropriety of their conduct, they would sometimes answer, 'We are not scholars,' or,

We are not praying people,' these being the terms used to designate those who made a profession of religion. Many were induced to keep back from the schools and the place of worship, from a desire to remain free from those restraints on their vicious practices which such profession of Christianity was considered to impose.".

This state of indecision, perhaps, no language can adequately describe. It was an eventful moment, in which national opinion hung suspended between idolatry and Christianity, vibrating alternately, under the influence of each; but finally, preponderating in favour of the latter, although it condemned the vices which the former sanctioned, and forbade such practices and habits as idolatry had generated, cherished, and indulged when nurtured to maturity. To this determination several pleasing circumstances happily conspired.