wine. At the same time, it can scarcely be called an enviable experience to pass night after night, in fair weather and foul, with no bed but the mountain side, and no shelter but the canopy of heaven.

The routine of one day is so much like that of another during the wandering in the mountains, that a description of one twenty-four hours will, I think, be sufficient. Soon after dark the whole party start, the prisoner having his arms tied loosely behind him by a single piece of small rope, leaving the end trailing behind. This, I may here mention, is simply used as a sign of captivity, and not as a precaution against an attempt at escape, two of the band being sentry over the captive at a time, the remainder dispersing slightly, so as to have due notice of any danger that might be close by.

After traveling several miles through valleys and over mountains, a halt is made about sunrise in some wellwooded and secluded spot; the prisoner is then left in charge of three or four men, and the remainder, excepting, of course, the chief, proceed with their various duties, some lighting a fire, others preparing the morning meal, which generally consists of bread, coffee, and perhaps a bit of lamb or goat, and another party go off to their next day's food from accomplices and spies who have been warned two or three days previously where to bring the provisions. So suspicious are they of treachery that no member of the band is allowed to eat any food brought by a spy until the bearer has tasted it to see if it contains poison.

The way in which the fire is lighted is well worthy of notice. Having collected some dry sticks, not large in circumference, and about eighteen inches in length, a square heap is built by laying them across each other at right angles, and at the same time leaving lots of air-space in the centre. The top stick is then lighted, and the fire burns downward; by this means a very hot but perfectly smokeless fire is obtained, which, of course, prevents their locality being discovered from the smoke. When all is prepared breakfast is heartily welcome after the night's journey, but no one thinks of partaking of any food until a short prayer has been said by the chief and all have crossed themselves three times.

I have omitted to mention that every band of brigands

A WOLF-HUNT IN COLORADO.-"WITH A QUICK AND SUDDEN BLOW I BURIED THE SHARP EDGE OF MY TOMAHAWK IN HIS FOREHEAD, KILLING HIM INSTANTLY."-SEE PAGE 155.

A WOLF-HUNT IN COLORADO.-"HE DISAPPEARED OVER THE
EDGE OF THE RIVER'S BANK."

has a tame ram, which is used to lead any sheep they steal from out-of-the-way villages, thus saving one man having the trouble of doing duty as shepherd. During meals every topic is discussed, no distinction being made between captor and captive, nor restriction placed on the latter as long as he does not broach the all-important subject of his own release. On that subject they are perfectly reticent; and one never knows from the day of one's captivity till within a few hours of one's release how negotiations are proceeding, nor how one's chances of life and death fluctuate according to the temper of the brigands and the communications brought by the spies.

During the first week or so after taking a prisoner the camp is moved every night, but as soon as a safe distance is reached and it is known that there are no troops in pursuit, four or five days are often spent in the same spot. On week days, as soon as breakfast is finished, all the arms are cleaned, knives and yataghans sharpened, and a sheep or goat killed and skinned for the midday meal, which generally takes place about eleven o'clock.

It is curious to watch the process of cooking the sheep. As soon as the skin is removed, a small portion of the intestines is taken and placed over the eyes and face of the animal, being secured behind the ears by a small piece of stick. This, as well as one or two other internal portions, is looked upon as a great delicacy, and always reserved for the chief. No portion of the sheep or goat is thrown away, every particle being eaten after being roasted slowly over the camp-fire by being placed horizontally on a long stick and slowly turned round by him whose duty for the day includes cook. Wine takes the place of coffee, but in other respects there is little difference between the midday and morning meals.

The first thing to be done as soon as the appetite is satisfied is to take the shoulder-blade of the animal just devoured and examine the marks on the flat portion of it. Should there be a small hole, it represents the grave of the prisoner, and signifies that the ransom will not be paid; if there appear small lines running in the direction of the leg-bone, it denotes that everything will go satisfactorily and the money be paid; but should the lines run at right angles, then pursuit and perhaps capture will be the result of their enterprise. This, among many others, is one of the superstitions in which the brigands put most implicit faith, and by which they profess to be able to

discover any news in regard to their success or failure about which they have any doubt.

The afternoon passes much the same as the morning, each taking his turn at preparing food, keeping guard over the captive, and any other little duties that may be required, the remainder sleeping and smoking cigarettes alternately until dinner-time comes round. After their evening meal, all sit round the fire, some playing cards; but the majority seem to find most pleasure in recounting to their captive the most atrocious and brutal deeds of which they have been guilty-the greater the barbarity the more welcome the opportunity of bragging about it. Before repeating one or two of their confessions, I must not omit to say that, although cards are allowed, no gambling, not even of the mildest description, is permitted. It may also appear strange that these ruffians took the most vivid interest in hearing all about the telephone, phonograph, and other new inventions.

A late captive informed me that, by giving lectures on different subjects nearly every night for six weeks, he had quite educated his "hosts," and considered the "Turkish School Board" ought to give some compensation. N.B. -It has not done so as yet.

a very pleasant evening in the box belonging to the commander-in-chief of the Turkish forces. On meeting him the following day he inquired if I knew who was at the theatre with us the previous evening. I replied in the negative; whereupon he produced a small note, in which was expressed the writer's appreciation of the performance, and congratulating his excellency on the state of his health; but judge of my surprise when I saw the signature "Captain Niko," the chief of the band of brigands who last year captured Colonel Synge! Of course by that time he was probably miles away; but it appears he had donned European costume for the occasion, and quite made an impression with his gloves and small silver-mounted cane.

I only know of one decisive step having been taken to suppress brigandage, and that took place a week after the release of Mr. Suter. Salyk Pasha, in command of the troops at Salonica, heard there was a band of brigands in the neighborhood, and immediately took steps to discover their whereabouts, which he succeeded in doing. Troops were at once dispatched to surround the band, and an engagement took place so near the town that the shots could be distinctly heard. The soldiers having previously received orders that they might loot any men they killed, gave a greater impetus to the whole proceeding; and before dark, out of a band of thirty brigands, twentythree heads were brought into the Pasha, and the remaining seven taken prisoners. One sergeant shot five him

The system of espionage employed is simply perfect; every movement of troops for miles round is known almost as soon as it takes place, and the state of the negotiations being carried on for the captive's release is immediately and almost daily communicated to the chief. Should any news be sent by the officials, the usual plan is to send word to the town from which he is coming to say by what road he is to go; then, suddenly, at some unexpected spot a brigand appears from behind a wall, or some other hiding-place, receives his information and returns; the place of rendezvous being generally four or five hours' ride from the camp, so that no clew should be given as to their whereabouts. It is a law among the bands that no member shall accept a present from a captive; and it is also the custom, on the release of a prisoner, for the chief to make him a present of £50 or so. At the same time, should he have a watch, or any other article for which the robbers have a desire, it is bought and paid for, the last ceremony being the taking off of the rope which has bound the prisoner's arms ever since his capture, which once more proclaims him a free man.

To show how little regard is shown to the Turkish authorities, I may here mention that, during my last fortnight at Salonica, a well known merchant showed me a letter he had just received, the contents of which were to the effect that unless £1,000 were sent at once to a place about three hours' journey distant, all his property, consisting of two houses and a lot of timber, would be immediately burned. This interesting but disagreeable communication was not signed by hand, but had a large seal at the bottom, like an official document, on which was printed in Greek, "Captain Kakuni." I need scarcely say that troops were dispatched in place of the money, but, alas! with the usual result.

On another occasion, and within four or five days of the above-mentioned event, I went to the Turkish theatre to see an Armenian company perform a comedy, and passed

wounded in the affray. However, on his arrival at the military hospital he was promoted to lieutenant on the spot, and every hope is entertained of his speedy recovery. I only regret I was unable to see the head of the rich brigand, so as to discover if it were one of those who received the ransom for Mr. Suter, to the handing over of which I was a witness.

In conclusion, I think that the old motto, "Le jeu no vaut pas la chandelle," should have due weight with any Englishmen who are purposing to visit the interior of Turkey, either on business or pleasure; and I think nothing will give greater emphasis to the advice it contains than giving an idea of the outrageous brutality of those into whose hands they would probably fall, as gathered from the stories told round the camp-fire to pass the time over the after-dinner wine in the mountains.

On one occasion the chief of a band succeeded in capturing a young Armenian whom he suspected of having given information to the authorities as to the whereabouts of his band; whereupon he sent a message to his mother, who lived in a village near, telling her that if she wished to see her son alive she must come at once to a certain spot. Fearing to disobey, the poor woman hurried to the place named, where she met the brigand chief, who immediately said, "I have sent for you to show you the way I treat traitors"; and drawing his yataghan, he cut the wretched man into four quarters before his mother's eyes, adding, as he wiped the blood off his weapon, "Now I am going to the top of that hill. Before sunset you will tell all the inhabitants of your village that they are to come out and see what I have done; should you not obey-and, mind, I shall be watching-I shall come and burn the whole village." Of course, there was no choice but to carry out orders, and come and see the ghastly spectacle.

Another instance, of the effects of which I was also a witness, was that of a villager in the town of Teronda, who, when the village was attacked by brigands, gave up all his property but a small silver cross, which he stoutly refused to part with. Whereupon he was stripped, rubbed over with petroleum oil, and then a match applied. It so happened that this did not prove fatal, but the state of

agony of the poor man some days afterward was something piteous to see.

I think these few stories will suffice to show the character of the Greek brigand; and, although as many more, and even worse, could be repeated, I will only add one which is rather amusing. A band, having captured a Turkish priest, used, when in want of a small amount of amusement, to make him climb up to the top of a tree, and there continue shouting out, "calling the people to prayer," as is their custom from the minarets of the mosques at sunrise; the only difference being that, whereas the real ceremony occupies only a few minutes, this wretched priest had to continue until he was unable to speak from hoarseness and want of breath.

A WOLF-HUNT IN COLORADO. ONE night, about ten o'clock, our stock astonished us by trotting into camp, and taking up a position close to the fire, remaining there all night. In the morning we discovered the reason why they had done so.

On making the round of the camp, the tracks in the snow of three gray mountain-wolves showed that evil-disposed neighbors had been prowling around; no doubt the mules had smelt them, and sought the camp-fire for safety.

Knowing what large, well-furred pelts these animals had, and having long wished for some to make a carriagerobe with, I determined to set as many of the beaver-traps for them as I could find good places for, it being necessary to trust to concealing the traps in the "runs" made by the different wild animals through the thickets of jungle, instead of using bait; for it was quite possible we might want every morsel of deer-meat we had to bait ourselves with. I therefore smoked myself and my gloves thoroughly in pitch-pine smoke to kill the human smell, swept the dead leaves away where each trap was to be placed, set it there, fastening it by passing its chain round the bole of the nearest treo or bush with a clove hitch, covered all carefully with leaves again, and, retreating backward as I left, brushed snow over all with a long cedar-bough, and trusted to fortune for the result.

In almost the first trap I came to on "running" them next morning, there was a big dog-wolf. Perceiving me approaching, he commenced lunging and pulling on the chain, making frantic efforts to get away; but finding he could not get loose, when I got quite near he made a most savage and determined rush at me, and when brought up by the chain, snapped his teeth together with a sharp clack, and growled and snarled like a savage watch-dog, his green eyes glaring fiercely at me, the long hair round his neck and on his shoulders standing out, turned all the wrong way.

Laying down my rifle, taking my tomahawk in my hand, and getting as near as possible to the wolf to be out of his reach, with a quick and sudden blow I buried its sharp edge in his forehead, killing him instantly. I was pleased with my prize, and leaving it, continued my round. None of the remaining traps had been disturbed excepting one, and it was-gone. It had evidently caught a fine large wolf, who had smashed, torn, and bit everything within his reach, and ended by gnawing in two the stump round which the chain of the trap had been fastened, and going off with it.

Thinking that before the wolf could have gone far the long chain would have caught or become entangled in the thicket, and that I should soon find him fast to something, I followed on his tracks.

However, he was apparently aware of the danger traveling through the jungle entailed, for I soon found he had left the cover for the open, and there being a good tracking-snow on the ground, I followed him at a steady dogtrot. Before I had gone very far I sighted him. He had, no doubt, seen me first, for he was hopping along on three legs at a very decent pace, considering how he was impeded by the trap, which was fast to his off fore-leg, and by the long chain dragging through the snow and grass. Thinking he was going his fastest, I got into a sharp run, expecting to close on him directly.

Then the wolf, changing his hop into a long swinging canter, in spite of trap and chain, kept his distance in front of me.

Half-a-mile's run pretty well pumped me, and the wolf being out of sight over a roll in the ground, I gave up the chase for the timebeing, and returned to camp for my breakfast, my horse and the dogs.

I found the camp deserted, and a little note pegged to a tree to inform me that Joe, having seen a small drove of antelopes, had gone in their pursuit, taking with him the dogs.

My breakfast was soon eaten, the dead wolf dragged into camp, my horse caught, saddled and bridled, and the pursuit of the escaped wolf recommenced.

By about ten o'clock I was on the wolf's trail again, following on it at a canter, and before I had gone far, came to a place where he had sat down.

After some hours, during which time I frequently caught sight of the wolf, he, finding that I still continued to pursue him, tried a new line, and, abandoning the edge of the valley, made for the roughest and most rocky of the cedar ridges. On them the tracking became extremely difficult.

In many places the snow had entirely disappeared from the ground, and the surface being hard, naked rock, on which no trace, excepting an occasional chip or scratch made by the trap, was discernible, I frequently completely lost the trail, and had to make wide circuits in order to strike it again, where a softer surface or the presence of snow gave me a chance of so doing.

The close, unremitting attention requisite to follow the wolf had so preoccupied me, that I had scarcely noticed the flight of time.

The moon, nearly a full one, had been up some time, and gave sufficient light for a practiced eye to follow a track by; so availing myself of every stretch of good ground to put my horse to his best gait, in order to close as soon as possible on the nearly tired-out wolf, I still pushed on.

Soon the wolf again changed his course, and, leaving the ridges, headed straight for the large, open valley below our camp.

I feared he was going to take to the cover-indeed, that was what I had been apprehensive of his doing for some time-but he did not.

As I emerged into the level valley, the wolf was in full view about a quarter of a mile in front of me, going very slowly toward the river-bank in a direction that I knew would lead him to a place where it was high and precipitous.

He was still some distance from the edge, and it seemed quite possible to come up with him before he could reach it. There was no need for me to call upon my horse. He saw the object of our pursuit as soon as I did, and, like the gallant hunter he was, laying back his ears and giving a toss of his head, he dashed after him.

If the wolf had had a couple of hundred yards further to go, the chase would have ended then and there. As it

A WOLF-HUNT IN COLORADO.- THE DOGS, MAKING NO EFFORT TO CHECK THEMSELVES, STRUCK HIM ONE AFTER THE OTHER, AND WOLF AND DOGS ROLLED OVER TOGETHER."

beginning to fag. But I was encouraged by the signs of distress the wolf commenced to show by often stopping and lying down, and began to hope I should run into him every minute; he, however, still managed to keep ahead, and at last the moon went down, and tracking became impossible.

It was late-about eleven o'clock-and the interest of pursuit being over, I realized how tired both I and my horse were, and how cold it had become, and so dismounted, unsaddled, lit a fire to warm myself at, and then rubbed my good steed down to refresh him. That done, I replaced the saddle, fastening it loosely on, and started for the camp on foot, leading my horse by the bridle

rein.

At last, tired, hungry and cold, I arrived in camp.

Several times as I trudged along had I been obliged to rub my face with snow, to keep it from being frost-bitten, and found the operation extremely painful; and for the preceding half-hour my feet had been so completely benumbed that I greatly feared they had become frozen, hence they were my first care on arrival; so, removing their covering with great caution, I got the faithful Joe to rub them briskly with snow.

Soon my feet began to hurt me horribly, feeling as though they were being grilled; but I bore the pain gladly, for then I knew that they were safe. When the

When I arrived at the spot and looked down, I found there was a perpendicular descent there of about twenty feet, with a mass of matted brushwood and grapevines drifted full of snow at the bottom of it.

On this the wolf had bold y thrown himself down, and was resting and getting his wind beneath it. It had been a jump for his life.

It became necessary for me to go half a mile up stream to where, the river bending, the steep bank would be on its other side, and the side on which I was sloping enough to permit me to descend with my horse into the creekbottom.

I was satisfied that what the wolf had just done had been an act of strategy; that he knew no horse could follow him straight down the bank; and I was also tolerably sure he would not stir for some time, most likely not until he should again discover me approaching, so I dismounted and walked, leading my horse, not only to rest him but to warm myself, for since the sun had set the temperature had become excessively cold.

When I arrived at the thicket into which the wolf had dropped, I made a cast round, and struck his trail, leaving it in a direction leading diagonally down the river, remounted and followed; but the nature of the ground prevented my riding with much rapidity.

By-and-by I caught a ghostly glimpse of the wolf in the moonlight, as he scrambled up the right bank of the river and disappeared. Undoubtedly he had also seen me, and finding I was not to be shaken off, his heart failed him, for he uttered a prolonged and mournful howl.

Where the wolf had scrambled up the bluff of the creek's bottom it was too steep to follow. I was again thrown out, and compelled to lose more time, seeking for a place where I could get up from out of the bottom and on the plain again.

Though the course the wolf had run had been very zigzag, and made many sharp turns and doubles, it had in the main been a big semicircle; and I was very glad to find, when I got on it again, that it bore more and more to the right, and so was taking me almost in the direction of the camp. To confess the truth, I and my horse were

water, and gradually making it hotter and hotter by dropping heated stones into it, they were soon warm and comfortable.

Joe had failed in getting any game. He had fired one long shot without effect, and I suppose his want of success had disposed him to see everything in an unfavorable light, for although he did not express the sentiment in so many words, it was evident his private opinion was I had played the fool in spending nearly thirteen hours in the saddle chasing a wolf, and only succeeding in nearly freezing my feet; and, indeed, he probably thought rightly. Certainly, had I not expected to overtake the wolf, encumbered as he was with the beaver-trap, in a few miles, I should have deferred starting after him until I could have had the assistance of the dogs; but I had been unaware how slight an encumbrance a beaver-trap would prove to a powerful gray mountain-wolf when traveling over snow.

As I rode along, I consoled myself for my last night's failure by the reflection that I should now have an opportunity of giving the dogs a chance of having their first combat with so formidable an antagonist as a gray-mountain wolf, under great advantages, and therefore with a probability of success.

The dogs had, both together and singly, killed in the most dashing manner many a coyote and timber-wolf; but doing so was child's play compared to tackling a gray mountain-wolf.

In a mile we came to where the wolf had lain down to rest, and I have no doubt he had but just started from his lair, for the two dogs gave a sniff and whimper, and were off like rockets.

We were on the comb of a piñion ridge, along which the course continued for a couple of hundred yards, and then turned abruptly down the steep side of it, which was thickly covered with scrub-trees and brush, rising to a height of about twelve feet.

Making myself as small as possible, and shutting my eyes to keep from being blinded, I headed my mule straight down the steep descent. Then, giving him the steel and trusting to luck, I tore my way down through the thicket.

Had I been clothed in any other material than buckskin,

was, a severe switching was all the damage sustained. When I opened my eyes again the chase was in full view. On the plain, about a quarter of a mile off, was the wolf, doing his "level best." Behind him, within a couple of hundred yards, were the two dogs, flying over the ground, Nip, as usual, beginning to draw slightly ahead.

I indulged myself with a yell, and got the last inch to the hour out of my mule. I was a hundred yards behind when the dogs closed with the wolf. Seeing they "had the heels of him," he had turned suddenly at bay.

The dogs, making no effort to check themselves, struck him one after the other like battering-rams, and wolf and dogs rolled over together, enveloped in a cloud of snowdust.

As I pulled up, all three recovered themselves and jumped to their feet, and the high-couraged dogs, nothing daunted by the superior size and strength of their antagonist, sprang at and seized him by the neck just behind the ears; then laying themselves back close to his sides, they, bulldog-like, shut their eyes and held on, trying their best to shake him.

Braced on outstretched legs, planted as firmly as possible, the wolf made determined but vain efforts to bite first one then the other of the dogs, but was totally unable to turn his had to either side sufficiently to do so.

The wolf looked like an incarnation of the spirit of savagery. His long hair was all turned the wrong way. His eyes glared and glowed; like opals, they turned all colors-green, red, purple. They seemed literally to blaze with ire. When he gnashed his great jaws their