dedicated to our Lady, which once stood upon it), Hen Holm, House Holm, Thompson's Holm, Curwen's or Belle Isle (round which are several nameless islets), Berkshire Island (a little below the ferry points), Ling Holm, Grass Holm, and Silver Holm. Windermere is deeper than any of the other lakes, with the exception of Wast Water, its depth in some parts being upwards of 240 feet. It is plentifully stocked with perch, pike, trout, and char, which last, at the proper season, is potted in large quantities and forwarded to the south. It is a remarkable fact, that at the spawning season, when the trout and char leave the lake, the former fish invariably takes the Rothay, and the latter the Brathy.

The prevailing character of the scenery around Windermere is soft and graceful beauty. It shrinks from all approach to that wildness and sublimity which characterise some of the other lakes, and challenges admiration on the score of grandeur only at its head, where the mountains rise to a considerable height, and present admirable outlines to the eye of the spectator. The rest of the margin is occupied by gentle eminences, which, being exuberantly wooded, add a richness and a breadth to the scenery which bare hills cannot of themselves bestow. Numerous villas and cottages, gleaming amid the woods, impart an aspect of domestic beauty, which further contributes to enrich the character of the landscape. Around the shores of the lake there are many places which may be made the temporary residence of the tourist while exploring the beauties of the adjacent country, and probably he may find it advantageous to make several of them his abode in succession: Bowness, on the east shore, half way between the two extremities, and therefore the most eligible; Ambleside, one mile beyond the head of the lake; Low Wood Inn, a mile and a half from its head on the east shore; the Ferry Inn on the promontory over against Bowness; and Newby Bridge at its foot,-all furnish comfortable quarters for the tourist, where boats, guides, and all his other wants can be supplied.

We shall commence our perambulation at the town first named, proceeding along the west border, and returning by the east border of the water.

BOWNESS.

[Hotels:-Royal; Crown.]

This pretty village is placed on the edge of a large bay, opposite Belle Isle, about eight miles from Kendal, and six from Ambleside. It has two excellent hotels, which, from the delightful character of the adjacent country, and the convenient situation of the village for making excursions, are much frequented during the touring season. The Church dedicated to St Martin is an ancient structure with a square tower, and a finely painted chancel window, which originally belonged to Furness Abbey. The churchyard contains a monument erected to the memory of Richard Watson, the late learned Bishop of Llandaff, the author of "the Apology for the Bible," and other well known works. He was born at Haversham, in another part of the county, in which village his

:

father was schoolmaster for upwards of forty years. He was interred at this place the inscription upon his tomb is simple and unpretending. "Ricardi Watson, Episcopi Landavensis, cineribus sacrum obiit Julii 1, A.D. 1816, Etatis 79." The interior of the church may be described in these lines, taken from "the Excursion," which have doubtless been suggested by this, or a similar

structure.

"Not raised in nice proportions was the pile,
But, large and massy, for duration built;
With pillars crowded, and the roof upheld
By naked rafters, intricately cross'd

Like leafless underboughs, 'mid some thick grove,
All wither'd by the depth of shade above.
Admonitory texts inscribed the walls-
Each in its ornamental scroll inclosed,

Each also crown'd with winged heads-a pair
Of rudely-painted cherubim. The floor
Of nave and aisle, in unpretending guise,
Was occupied by oaken benches, ranged
In seemly rows

And marble monuments were here display'd
Thronging the walls, and on the floor beneath
Sepulchral stones appear'd with emblems graven,
And foot-worn epitaphs, and some with small
And shining effigies of brass inlaid."

The school-house has been lately rebuilt through the munificence of the late Mr Bolton of Storrs. It stands on an eminence to the east of the village, and forms a handsome edifice. The view from the front is exquisitely beautiful, comprising the whole of the upper half of the lake. The mountains round the head, into the recesses of which the waters seem to penetrate, arrange themselves in highly graceful forms, and the wooded heights of the opposite shore cast a deep shadow upon the "bosom of the steady lake." From this point Belle Isle appears to be a portion of the mainland.

In addition to the villas afterwards enumerated, there are in the neighbourhood, Holly Hill (Mrs Bellasis), The Craig (W. R. Gregg, Esq.), Birthwaite (G. Gardner, Esq.), Rayrigg (Major Rodgers,) The Wood (Miss Yates), St Catherine's (the Earl of Bradford), Elleray, Orrest Head (John Braithwaite, Esq.), Belle Grange (Mrs Curwen), Wray (Wm. Wilson, Esq.)

Several interesting walks will be pointed out to strangers, amongst which we may mention those through the parsonage-land to the Ferry Point, and to Storrs. If the tourist will take the trouble to proceed about half a mile along the road to Brant Fell, he will be rewarded by one of the finest views of the lake he can obtain. The Fells of Furness are seen across the lake, but the murmur of

"bees that soar for bloom,

High as the highest peak of Furness Fells,"*

is of course inaudible. A pleasing walk of four or five miles may be obtained

+ WORDSWORTH.

thus: pursue the road to Ambleside until it enters that from Kendal (this portion of the walk will be particularized presently): turn to the right, and keep on this road for about a mile. The Wood, St Catherine's, and Elleray, are passed on the left. The last was the property of late Prof. Wilson of Edinburgh, and was at one time occupied by the late Major Hamilton, the author of Cyril Thornton, of a history of the Peninsular Campaigns, and other literary works. The house is perched upon the hill-side, having beautiful views of the surrounding scenery visible from its windows. It is thus alluded to in one of the poems of its late owner:

"And sweet that dwelling rests upon the brow
(Beneath its sycamore) of Orrest Hill,

As if it smiled on Windermere below,

Her green recesses and her islands still!"

A narrow lane branches off from the Kendal road near the Orrest Head gate, by which Bowness will be reached one mile and a-half from Orrest Head.

The more distant excursions will include the valley of Troutbeck,* the circuit of the two sections of Windermere, Esthwaite Water, and Coniston Lake. These are but a few, but an inspection of the chart will suggest others. Boating upon the lake will probably be the amusement resorted to earliest and most frequently. The various islands should be visited, especially Belle Isle, upon which strangers are allowed to land. It contains Mr. Curwen's residence, erected in 1776, in the form of a perfect cycle. The island is rather more than a mile in circumference, and contains upwards of thirty acres. It is intersected by neat walks, over which fine trees throw their massy arms. The islet to the left of it is Hen Holm, the next Lady Holm. Wansfell Pike is beheld over the former. The eminences to the right are those of the Kentmore Range, Hill Bell, and High Street. Fairfield is in full view, crowning a chain of hills terminated by Rydal Nab.

CIRCUIT OF WINDERMERE,

FROM BOWNESS.

Quitting Bowness for Ambleside, the stately woods of Rayrigg are entered three-quarters of a mile from the former place. A bay of the lake is then seen to project almost to the road. Rayrigg House stands on the left near the waters' edge; shortly before emerging from the wood, the road ascends a steep hill, and then pursues a level course, affording from its terrace a magnificent view of the lake-a view "to which," says Wilson, "there was nothing to compare in the hanging gardens of Babylon. There is the widest breadth of water-the richest foreground of wood—and the most magnificent background of mountains,

* For a description of this valley, refer to page 18.

not only in Westmorland, but-believe us-in all the world." Our old acquaintances, the two Pikes of Langdale are easily recognized. On the left is Bowfell, a square-topped hill, between which and the Pikes, Great End and Great Gable peep up. On the left of Bowfell, the summit of Scawfell Pike is faintly visible. The road is intersected two miles from Bowness by the Kendal and Ambleside road, at a place called Cook's House, nine miles from Kendal. A road proceeds into Troutbeck in a line with the one over which we have been conducting the tourist. From Cook's House to Troutbeck Bridge is almost a mile. From this place a road conducts by the west bank of the stream to the village of Troutbeck, the nearest part of which is a mile and a half distant. Continuing our progress towards Ambleside, Calgarth, embosomed in trees, is passed on the left. The late Bishop Watson built this mansion, and resided here during the latter years of his life; it is still occupied by his descendants. Two miles beyond is Low Wood Inn, which, standing pleasantly on the margin of the lake at its broadest part, is an excellent station for those who are able to devote a few days to the beauties of the neighbourhood. Most of the excursions recommended to be made from Ambleside may, with almost equal advantage, be performed from this inn. Close at hand is Dove's Nest, the house Mrs. Hemans inhabited one summer. Her description of the place, taken from her delightful letters, will not be deemed uninteresting:-" The house was originally meant for a small villa, though it has long passed into the hands of farmers, and there is, in consequence, an air of neglect about the little demesne, which does not at all approach desolation, and yet gives it something of touching interest. You see everywhere traces of love and care beginning to be effaced-rose trees spreading into wildness-laurels darkening the windows with too luxuriant branches; and I cannot help saying to myself, 'Perhaps some heart like my own in its feelings and sufferings has here sought refuge and repose.' The ground is laid out in rather an antiquated style; which, now that nature is beginning to reclaim it from art, I do not at all dislike. There is a little grassy terrace immediately under the window, descending to a small court, with a circular grass-plot, on which grows one tall whiterose tree. You cannot imagine how much I delight in that fair, solitary, neglected-looking tree. I am writing to you from an old-fashioned alcove in the little garden, round which the sweet-briar and the rose-tree have completely run wild; and I look down from it upon lovely Winandermere, which seems at this moment even like another sky, so truly is every summer cloud and tint of azure pictured in its transparent mirror.

"I am so delighted with the spot, that I scarcely know how I shall leave it. The situation is one of the deepest retirement; but the bright lake before me, with all its fairy barks and sails, glancing like 'things of life' over its blue water, prevents the solitude from being overshadowed by anything like sadness."

Wansfell Holm (J. Hornby, Esq.) is seen on the right, immediately before reaching the head of Windermere. The road for the last three or four miles has been alternately approaching to and receding from the margin of the lake, but never retiring further from it than a few fathoms. At Waterhead is the neat residence of Mr. Thomas Jackson, and further on, Waterside (Mr. William Newton,) is passed on the left.

A mile beyond is Ambleside, afterwards described, from which we continue our perambulation. Passing Croft Lodge (J. Holmes, Esq.) on the right, Brathay Bridge is crossed at Clappersgate, one mile from Ambleside, and shortly afterwards Brathay Hall, (G. Redmayne, Esq.) is seen on the left. A bay, called Pull Wyke, there makes a deep indentation; and looking across the lake, Wansfell Holm, Low Wood Inn, and lower down, Calgarth, the seat of the late Bishop Watson, are pleasing objects. Wansfell Pike and the Troutbeck Hundreds tower above them. The road to Hawkshead having deviated to the right, the village of High Wray is gained, five miles from Ambleside; and three miles beyond is the Ferry Inn. At this place the shores suddenly contract, and between the two promontories a public ferry is established, by means of which, passengers, cattle, and vehicles are conveyed across the lake at a trifling charge. About the year 1635, a marriage was celebrated at Hawkshead, between a wealthy yeoman from the neighbourhood of Bowness, and a lady of the family Sawrey of Sawrey. As is still customary in Westmorland amongst the rustic population, the married couple were attended by a numerous concourse of friends, some of whom were probably more than cheerful. In conducting the bridegroom homewards, and crossing the ferry, the boat was swamped, either by an eddy of wind, or by too great a pressure on one side, and thus upwards of fifty persons, including the bride and bridegroom, perished. While at the Ferry Inn, the tourist should not fail to visit the Station, a pleasure house belonging to Mr. Curwen of Belle Isle, standing on a spot whence fine views of the circumjacent scenery are commanded. "The view from the Station," says Professor Wilson, "is a very delightful one, but it requires a fine day. Its character is that of beauty, which disappears almost utterly in wet or drizzly weather. If there be strong bright sunshine, a 'blue breeze' perhaps gives animation to the scene. You look down on the islands which are here very happily disposed. The banks of Windermere are rich and various in groves, woods, coppice, and corn-fields. The large deep valley of Troutbeck stretches finely away up to the mountains of High Street and Hill Bell-hill and eminence are all cultivated wherever the trees have been cleared away, and numerous villas are visible in every direction, which, although not perhaps all built on very tasteful models, have yet an airy and sprightly character; and with their fields of brighter verdure and sheltering groves, may be fairly allowed to add to, rather than detract from, the beauty of a scene, one of whose chief charms is that it is the cheerful abode of social life.” At a short distance from the land is Belle Isle, upon which stands

"A Grecian temple rising from the deep."