are, as in other places, the soul of the company. Many of them also afford delight by singing and playing on the harpsichord. My acquaintance has several times introduced me into these societies, which were numerously attended. But cards are unknown here, as well as at Zurich. They usually address foreigners in French, which language they speak incomparably better than in the other towns of Switzerland. The German spoken here is extremely corrupted, and highly disagreeable to the ear.

"The aristocratic system is carried to a greater height in Berne, than in any other part of Switzerland. A few families have the whole power in their own hands; they compose the council and the senate, and the grand bailiffs are chosen from among them. None of the other inhabitants of Berne have any share in the government. The number of these aristocratic families diminishes from time to time: they may, however, transfer their rights to other families; but this is seldom done.

"I have commonly spent some hours every evening on the terrace, and resigned myself to pleasing chimeras, seated by moon-light be neath the branches of the ancient chesnut-trees. Ah! my friends, only on the mountains my heart felt not quite forlorn! There I seemed to be nearer to you.

"To-morrow I set off for Lausanne. I have already taken leave of all my acquaintance here, excepting the minister Stapfer. I have a great regard for this worthy Swiss, and he for me. I have every day spent several hours in his closet. He has a very amiable family. I shall not tell him when I intend leaving Berne. He has re

"The road from Berne to Lausanne leads through a continued garden, and one of the finest that ever my eyes beheld. The trees on both sides of the road appear ready to break down under the ponderous burthen of full-grown fruits, and the harvest waved with resplendent lustre.

"It was Sunday; the country people, in their best clothes, were enjoying themselves in the publichouses, and indulging in copious draughts of the grape's cheering beverage, amidst shouts of Switzerland for ever!' As we passed the village of Murten, the coachman stopped, and said to me, ⚫ Do you wish to see the remains of our enemies? Where? Here, on the right side of the road.' I jumped out of the carriage; and, inclosed within an iron railing, I discovered a large heap of human bones.

"The duke of Burgundy, Charles the Bold, was one of the most powerful princes of his age; he pos sessed heroic courage, but was the scourge of mankind, and the terror of the neighbouring nations. He resolved, in the year 1476, to make war upon Helvetia, and to subdue the pride of its independent inha. bitants by the iron sceptre of ty. ranny. His troops advanced; his

many.

heart susceptible andards waved ald for a faithth groaned under the burthens artillery. The Burgundian troops, covering a larger space than the eye could embrace, were already ranged on the banks of Murten's lake, and Charles, with envious look, beholding Helvetia's tranquil valleys, already called them in imagination his own; when at once, by means of signals, the report was spread through all Switzerland, that the enemy was at hand!' The peaceful shepherds instantly left their cottages and their flocks, armed themselves with battle-axes and lances, assembled, at the sound of the trumpet, and the call of patriotism, which was reverberated by every heart, and like impetuous Alpine torrents rushed from their native mountains upon their numerous foes. Charles's thunders roared; but the valiant, the invincible Swiss, enveloped in smoke and darkness, broke the ranks of his warriors. His thunder ceased, and the menacing phalanx fell beneath their irresistible arms. The duke himself plunged in despair into the lake, and his horse, being strong, carried him to the opposite shore. Only one faithful servant escaped with the duke. But Charles, in a fit of fury, shot him with his own hand, when he turned his eyes to the field of battle, and beheld the complete discomfiture of his army, at the same time exclaiming, Should you alone be left!' The victors afterwards collected the bones of the slain, and deposited them in the charnel-house by the road-side, where they still remain.

"I started at the melancholy sight of these proofs of our perishable nature. And, ye Swiss, can ye exult over these lamentable trophies? Were not the Burgundians,

as men, your brethren? Had you bathed with your tears the remains of these thirty thousand unfortu nate fellow-creatures, and committed them to the earth, accompanied by your benediction ;-had you erected in the field of triumph a sable monument, with this inscription, Here the Swiss fought for their country. They conquered, but tears mingle with their songs of triumph!'-Then should I have bestowed the tribute of unreserved praise! Hide this monument of barbarism; and, if ye pride yourselves in the name of Swiss, forget not that you have the still nobler appellation of men.

"On the walls of this open grave are several inscriptions. You know that by Haller.

66 6

Stop, Helvetian! Here lies the adventurous host, before which Liege fell, and the throne of France itself trembled. It was not the numbers of our ancestors, it was not the superiority of weapons, but unanimity, invigorating their arm, destroyed the foe!'

66 6 Know, brethren, your own power. It lies in your fidelity. O! may it even in these times animate the breast of every reader!'

"Besides these inscriptions here are found thousands of names and observations. In how many ways man strives to acquire distinction! That desire incites him to discover new worlds, and causes the traveller to write his name on the tomb of the Burgundians. Many strangers, in memory of having vi sited this spot, take a bone with them. I, however, did not follow their example. You may guess why; for the rest the bones are all so dry, that they have not the least disagreeable smell.

66

Beyond Murten I saw the remains of the ancient Roman town, H 3 Aventicum.

Aventicum. These ruins consist of colonnades, walls, aqueducts, &c. Where is the splendor of this town, once the capital of Helvetia? where are its inhabitants? Empires, cities, and nations disappear; we also shall once be no more, my friends. What earth shall cover us? It is night, and the moon shines on the graves of those who once rejoiced at her gentle light."

Lausanne.

--

"I arrived here at night; the whole city was buried in sleep, except the watchman, who was just calling the hour. I went to the Golden Lion; but, when I had knocked, I received for answer,Tout est plein, Monsieur;-tout est plein! We are quite fall! I knocked at another inn, called, 4 la couronne. But here also I was told, Tout est plein, Monsieur! Imagine my situation! At night, in the street, in a strange place, without lodging, without acquaintance! At last the watchman took pity on

me.

He went to the door of the inn, and assured the person in the house, who had refused me admittance, that Monsieur est zoyageur de qualité-the gentleman was a traveller of distinction. But even this was to no purpose; the voice repeated, we are quite full; I wish the foreign gentleman a good night.'C'est impertinent ça,' said the watchman. Come with me to the Stag,' added he, there you will certainly not be refused a lodging.' And he proved to be right; I obtained a decent apartment in that house. The good-natured watchman wished me a good night, with a smile of heart-felt satisfaction, and positively refused to accept the trifle which I offered him. He went about his

business, and I took out mys s to be et-book, in which I wrote following words-On such a day I found at Lausanne a good man, who performs a service to his fellow-creature, without any motive of self-interest.'

"The following morning I rambled, about the town, which I do not like at all. It is partly situated in a hollow, partly on the declivity of a mountain, so that you constantly go up or down hill. The streets are narrow, and badly paved; but you are compensated by the most delightful picturesque views. The pellucid and ample bosom of the lake of Geneva; the range of the mountains of Savoy; pleasant towns and villages, as Morges, Rolle, and Nyon, scattered along the shores of the lake, all together form a charming and a varied picture. If heaven should ever conduct you to Lausanne, my friends, ascend the terrace of the cathedral, and recollect, that on the same spot I passed several hours in tranquil joy and serene composure.

"If you were now to ask me, of what we never become tired? I should reply, beautiful prospects.' How many charming countries have I seen! and yet, what delight I continue to receive from every new beautiful view.

"I was recommended to Mr. Lebad, of this place, a natural philosopher, and author of various essays in the transactions of the Literary Society of Lausanne. He has a pretty house, and a charming garden; in which are several Latin, English, and French poetical inscriptions. Among others, I was struck by a passage from an ode by Addison; in which the poet thanks God for all the good gifts of his providence-for a sensible

heart

heart susceptible of enjoymentand for a faithful and amiable friend. Happy is Mr. Lebad if he can join in the thanks of Addison! This ode is in the Spectator. I once spent a whole night on translating this ode; and in the moment while I was writing the two concluding lines, the first rays of the morning-sun darted into my apartment. That morning was one of the happiest of my life. Mr. Lebad has conducted me to the Caffe Literaire, where you find several English, French, and German journals. During my residence in Lausanne, I shall frequently pay a visit to this coffee-house. To-day, alas! I cannot go out, for it has rained incessantly ever since daybreak.

"Lausanne is always full of young Englishmen, who come hither to learn French, and play all kinds of childish and wanton tricks. Our countrymen often associate with them; and, instead of advancing in the sciences, they rather perfect themselves in all kinds of debaucheries. I would therefore advise nobody to send their children to Lausanne, especially as they teach scarcely any thing there but French. The sciences, on the contrary, are far better taught at the German universities; and even young Swiss, eager after solid information, go to Leipzig, or preferably to Gottingen. In fact, the means of obtaining instruction have been no where brought to such perfection as in Germany; and the youth who is not inspired with a love of the sciences by the precepts of a Platner or a Heyne, has certainly no disposition whatever for them,

"The young foreigners live here in boarding schools, where they pay for instruction and board six or seven louis-d'ors per month. Yet one of our countrymen has settled at Lausanne. This is count Gregor Kyrillowitsch Rasumowsky, a man of letters, and a celebrated natu ralist. Out of love to the sciences, he has refused all the dignities and honourable situations to which his high rank entitled him; and removed to a distant country where nature has so plentifully lavished her bounties and her charms; and where there is so much food for his favourite inclination. He lives here in tranquillity, continually occupied with bringing to perfection the system of natural philosophy, and is, certainly, an honour to his country. If I am not mistaken, he is the first Russian who has made himself known in Europe as a really learned man. His writings are in French. He went, a few weeks ago, to Russia, but not for good. He returns again to Lausanne. I have just come from the cathedral, where I have seen the monument of the princess Orloff, who died here in the prime of life, and in the arms of her tender and disconsolate husband. She is said to have been very handsome, and to have possessed an excellent heart. I blessed her memory!-Above the tomb of the duchess of Courland stands an urn of white marble. This princess was respected and beloved by all the inhabitants. She loved nature and poetry; and the British and German muses, together with nature, had formed her mind and heart."