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precipitating themselves from steep rocks, and propelling their silver current through delicious verdurealtogether formed such a romantic and imposing picture, as I never saw before. Ought I not, my friends, to thank heaven, for all the grand and exquisite scenes which present themselves to my eyes in Switzerland?

a cold that might be productive of serious consequences. If any person had seen me in that condition, he must have thought that I had just been drawn out of the river, for I had not a dry thread upon me, and the water poured from me in streams.

"We were only three wersts from Meyringen, and the road was by far not so disagreeable as the ascent to the Scheideck; but these three wersts increased my fatigue to the highest pitch, for the heat in the valleys was quite intolerable; the beams of the sun, reflected by the bare rocks, heated the atmosphere the more, as a cooling breeze seldom blows here. Some women, who met me, said pitifully,

"At length my conductor re minded me of Reichenbach. In order to have a near view of it, I was obliged, notwithstanding my fatigue, to cross another considera ble eminence; however, the road was fortunately not stony; but consisted of a green turf wet with a continual drizzling shower, proceeding from the cataract. Fifty paces from the cascade I was en-how hot it is, young stranger!' veloped by it, as by a fog. How ever, I approached the cavity into which the Reichenbach precipitates itself, with a dreadful bellowing and thundering noise, hurrying along prodigious stones and trees of great magnitude. O! that I could but describe the inexpressible rapidity with which wave after wave darts into the unfathomable abyss; again rises aloft, and is swallowed up in the foaming vortex, which spreads around a humid cloud of white vapour!-But my imagination, in vam, seeks for comparisons, simlies, and pictures! Every sensible mind must admire those grand objects, the fall of the Rhine and the Reichenbach; but what pencil, what pen, can represent them? Deafened by the thunder that burst around me, I sank, almost senseless, on the ground.

"I was involved in clouds of fine watery particles; and whirlwinds, caused by the force of the fall of such a mass of water, whistled around me, till I was obliged to retire, for fear of taking

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"The village of Meyringen consists of small wooden houses, dispersed at great distances throughout the valley. In general stone buildings are very rare in the villages of the Alps. The inhabi tants of the valley of Hassly are within hearing of the incessant noise arising from the fall of the Reichenbach, and other cataracts. These brooks, formed by the melting of the snow, frequently swell so dreadfully, that they inundate the whole valley, together with the houses, gardens, and meadows. A few years since, an inundation of this kind caused great devastation, and entirely covered this charming valley with sand and stones. But the inhabitants could not think of abandoning their beloved birthplace, where they and their ancestors had enjoyed such numberless blessings. The ground was soon cleared, and again covered with grass and flowers. The charms of nature in this happy valley are ri. valled by those of its inhabitants; particularly of the women, almost

all

all of whom, without exception, are beauties, with a colour like the rose of the Alps; any of them might serve as a model of Flora. Will you now wonder if I stay here a few days? Perhaps there is no where else in the world another Meyringen. It is, however, a pity that the girls disfigure themselves so extremely by their dress. They for instance were such very short waists, that their clothes have the appearance of sacks. I found an excellent inn at this place.

Eleven o'clock at night. "I passed the evening very agreeably; I rambled about the valley among the groves and meadows, and, upon my return to the village, I found a great number of young people of both sexes engaged in playing, running, and all kinds of sport. They were celebrating a wedding. I easily distinguished the bridegroom and bride from among the rest; they were the handsomest pair that can be imagined; the most charming carnation played upon their cheeks, and their eyes swam in tears; they tried to be as gay as the rest, but a mild melancholy, expressed in all their motions, distinguished them from all the other swains and shepherdesses. I stepped up to the bridegroom, and, tapping him in a friendly manner on the shoulder, said to him, You are very happy, my friend! The bride looked at me, and I perceived in her expressive looks her modest thanks for my praise. What delicate sensibility these daughters of the Alps possess! how well they understand the language of the heart. The swain regarded his mistress with a smile; their looks met.-What eloquence! A singular thought entered my

mind. I wished to leave the happy couple a token of remembrance, that in the future periods of their union they might recollect that a stranger from a remote northern region had been present on their wedding-day, and had participated in their joy. I considered and sought, but could find nothing, excepting a copper medal, with the head of a Grecian youth, given me by my friend B.Accept of this,' I said to the bride, as a token of my good wishes for you and your bridegroom.' She stared by turns at the medal, at her lover, and at me, and was embarrassed how to behave. I am a native of a country,' I added, where it is customary to make some present or other to a bride; and I beg of you to accept of this trifle, with the same good-will that I give it.'

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And of what country are you a native?' asked a venerable old man, seated on a log of wood.

Russia,' I replied. Russia! Yes, I have heard of that country." Where does it lie?' Far, far from hence, my friend! behind yon mountain; direct north.' True, true, I recollect.' Meantime the young couple whispered each other, and the bride took the medal and thanked me for it. She held the medal to her husband, who turned it round in his hands, and gave it her agam. I rejoiced at their happiness, and thought on the verses of Haller, in his poem, The Alps, to the following effect.

"Soon as a youthful swain feels the gentle fire, which is easily kindled by a languishing eye in the breast of sensibility-unrestrained by fear, he discloses his pain to the object of his passion. She listens to him; and, if his flame deserves the reward of her heart, she expresses her sentiments with

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out reserve, and follows the inclination of her heart. For no fair one need be ashamed of the tender passion, when it arises from reciprocal regard, and is maintained by virtue.

"Their desires are not checked by empty forms of ceremony ;the reciprocity of their affection constitutes the marriage contract, which, confirmed only by the plighted faith of both, serves for an oath, and a kiss for the seal. "The lovely nightingale salutes them from the nearest branches, and delight makes their bed of soft elastic moss-a tree is their curtain, and Solitude the witness of their bliss-when Love leads the blushing bride to the arms of her swain. Oh! thrice happy pair! whom a prince might justly envy!

"Meantime the sun had set, and the young people had departed. I took leave of the young couple; and, if the maidens of the Alps had not been so timid, I should have wished to beg something of them-What do you suppose I mean? Nothing but an innocent kiss."

Tracht, eight o'clock in the evening.

This place is the termination of my ramble. My feet are very sore, and face quite sun-burnt; my for the rest, I am cheerful and in good spirits.

"The road from Meyringen to Tracht leads through a valley, and is rather pleasant, but not interesting. I have arrived here just at a moment of general festivity; the inhabitants of the village are assembled in a large meadow, drinking and singing; the youths are wrestling, and the victor is rewarded by a loud Bravo! from

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the spectators. I am sitting at the window, and looking alternately at these gay mortals and at the sky, which begins to be overcast on all sides. It is fortunate, that I am not still among the mountains. Meantime my hostess is preparing a dish of fish, which have just been caught in the lake. To-morrow morning early I set off by water for Unterseen, and proceed from thence to Thun.

"Where are you, my friends? how do you pass your time? Certainly very different from your wandering friend, who, whether on mountains or in valleys, thinks incessantly on you.

"Health and happiness."

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highest pleasure. At length the rain ceased, and the cheering sun dried our drenched clothes. On my arrival at Thun I felt a slight attack of fever; however, it left me entirely after I had taken a few cups of tea. To-morrow morning, at four o'clock, I set out on my return to Berne, where I had left my things."

Berne, the 10th of September. "After my return from the Alps, I have spent a very agreeable week at Berne: sometimes I visited my acquaintance, who conduct themselves in the most friendly manner towards me: sometimes I traverse the adjacent countrynow I employ myself in reading, and then in writing.

"A few days ago the rev. Mr. Stapfer introduced me to Mr. Sprengli, who possesses a complete collection of Swiss birds, a cabinet of coins, and many other curiosities. This gentleman's mode of life is as remarkable as his cabinet. He in habits a charming villa, near the town, which is situated on an eminence, and commands a view of the surrounding country, and of the snow-clad mountains. He is unmarried, and upwards of sevenLy years of age. I saw no other male inhabitant in his house besides himself: an old female domestic performs the office of porter. The rooms are furnished with great taste, and the utmost cleanliness is observed. Thus, this opulent old man lives in the bosom of nature, abundance, and tranquillity. He was very poor till within these few years, when considerable property was bequeathed him by a distant relation. In his youth, when studying ornithology, he bought a number of birds, dissected them, and

had them stuffed. This laid the foundation of the admirable collection, which, tow attracts every traveller to his huse, and for which he would not take 50,000 dollars. Yesterday I was at Hindelbank, a village situated two French miles from Berne. In the church of that place is the Monument of the beau tiful Lady,' as it is called. The history of this monument is remarkable. Erlach, one of the principal inhabitants of Berne, and proprietor of the village of Hindelbank, employed the German artist, Nahl,

to execute a marble monument to the memory of his deceased father. Nahl undertook the work, and lodged at the house of the rev. Mr. Langhanns, the pastor of the village. When the work was finished, Erlach, who was fond of splendor, insisted that it should be gilt over. Nahl endeavoured to convince him that the monument would be spoiled by such a measure: but, in vain. His reasons were not listened to, and the proud artist was cbliged to conceal his indignation, and gild the monument. About this time, the paster's young and beautiful wife died in childbed. Nahl had entertained the highest regard for her, and his affiction was equal to that of the distressed spouse. The thought at once occurred to his mind: Why should not my art transmit her memory to posterity?' He embraced his friend, and exclaimed, • Our tears mix with dust, and dry up; but a noble monument of art remains for ages. My hand, guided by my heart, shall produce a representation of thy spouse in marble; and the inhabitants of the most distant countries shall admire her monument, while they look with contempt at Erlach's.' And this design he executed. The mo

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ther, an exq cian figure, is represented wi child at the moment of re on. The tombstone is br d she is in the act of rising. holds in one arm her child, and with the other appears to be rolling the stone cntirely away; her countenance clearly denotes attention to the sound of the trumpet, which wakens the dead. The execution is as masterly, as the idea is excellent and truly poetical. Haller placed an inscription on this monument nearly to the following effect: the words are supposed to be spoken by the mother. I hear the sound of the trumpet; it penetrates the graves! Awake, my son! Awake, son of grief, and lay aside thy mortal part! Hasten to see thy Saviour, the ruler of Time, and the conqueror of Death! All grief is now changed to eternal joy. Though these verses of Haller may be very good, still the inscription is undeniably too prolix for the moment in which the mother is represented. Perhaps, the following would be better: Hark! the sound of the trumpet! Awake, my son! behold the Saviour!' Some believe, that the fracture of the stone is not the work of art, but that, after the inscription was engraven, he actually broke it; and the zealous amateurs of this art loudly express their disapprobation of this petty contrivance. Above the verses of Haller is the passage from the BibleHere I am, Lord! and the child whom thou hast given me!' It is to be lamented, that this admirable production of art is so badly placed. It is hid in the choir of the church, and several boards must be removed in order to obtain a sight of it. I say nothing of the magnificent monument of Erlach.

The artist did not wish it to be spoken of.

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"Nahl would perhaps have scarcely agreed so well with the present minister of Hindelbank, as with Langhanus, as he has in his. physiognomy not the least trait of a pastoral disposition or of sensibility. How he tends his flock, I know not.

"I believe I have said nothing yet of the famous arsenal at this place. It contains, besides a great quantity of weapons, and instruments of war, of all kinds, likewise the armour and accoutrements of the ancient Bernese heroes, who acquired great renown by their great and valiant achievements. The most distinguished of them was the duke of Zahringen, the founder of the city of Berne. He must have been a giant; and though he might not have been able to storm heaven, must have struck terror into his enemies. I cannot express, my friends, what a shiver thrilled through my veins at the sight of the remains of the times of chivalry,of those times when they trusted only to their swords and providence, when merit con sisted in deeds of hardihood,—and valour was the quintessence of every virtue! The pistols of Charles the Bold likewise attracted my notice; they are handsomely decorated with silver and ivory, and I viewed them with silent attention some minutes; at the same time calling to mind the hand which had used them. The manners of the inhabitants of Berne are not so severe as those of Zurich. Both men and women meet promiscuously. They commonly assemble at four o'clock in the afternoon. In these companies the ladies converse and jest without reserve, and H 2

are,

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