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handsome country mansions peeping from their leafy screens, enliven the picture.

Leaving Mountmellick to the south, the Barrow bends in a somewhat tortuous course towards Portarlington. The country around is rather level, but numerous plantations diversify the scene. In its approach to the town it glides by the demesne of Garryhinch and Barrowbank, while about a mile south the eye is attracted by a richly-wooded mount, called Spire Hill, from the obelisk erected upon it by Lord Carlow, who employed the poor in this work during a season of scarcity. This hill has some tasteful walks around and upon it, and forms a conspicuous object throughout the country. Emo Park, the seat of Lord Portarlington, is a place worthy its noble owner.

The geographer would find some difficulty in discovering why this town is named Portarlington. Tradition records a small quay, or landing place, on the Barrow, as the source, unde derivatur portus, and Arlington was the title of a former Lord of the soil. The territory of Coolatederry and Kilmalooge having descended to Lewis, Lord Clanmilira, as tenant-in-tail of Terence O'Dempsy, was declared forfeited on this nobleman being attainted of treason in 1641; and by letters patent, dated 5th November, 1674, Charles II. granted the forfeited estates to Sir Henry Bennett, created Lord Arlington. Thus his title, with the prefix Port, gave the name to this town. This nobleman was a distinguished statesman, Secretary of State for twelve years, a Knight of the Garter, and Lord Chamberlain. Finding it, we suppose, much pleasanter to reside in England than among the bogs and woods of Ireland (for this district was particularly remarkable for growth of timber-Cooletoodera signifying the "woody nook ")-Lord Arlington, about the year 1687, sold his extensive estates around Portarlington to Sir Patrick Trant, descended from the Dingle family of that name. This Sir Patrick was a zealous officer for the House of Stuart, and obtained such odium from his exertions to maintain the cause of James II., that, on the accession of William III., he was

outlawed, and attainted of treason. This, of course, left his property at the disposal of the Crown; and, on the 26th June, 1696, William III. granted the estates surrounding Portarlington to a brave and distinguished General, Henry de Massue, Marquis de Rouvigny, created Earl of Galway and Baron of Portarlington. It was this nobleman who founded here a colony of French refugees, many of whose descendants remain to the present time. These emigrés were almost entirely retired officers and soldiers of the regiments of La Mulloniere, La Caillimotte, and Du Cambou, with those of Lord Galway's own regiment of horse. Previously, the town had scarcely begun to invade the quiet of the wide-spread forest, or bog land; for, on the arrival of the colonists, they had to seek dwellings in the neighbouring villages and towns of Lea, Monasterevan, &c., until their future habitations were erected. Sir Erasmus Burrowes, who has published an interesting and minute account of the Huguenot colony here,* pleasantly notices, that, with the great Bog of Allen sweeping past it like the ocean, it escaped the imprecation of the disappointed tourist, invoked upon the other peaty towns of the ancient possessors, the O'Dempseys—

"Great Bog of Allen, swallow down

That odious mass called Phillipstown; And if thy maw can swallow more, Pray take (and welcome) Tullamore."" The district speedily assumed a thriving aspect from the industry and active habits of the colonists. That great boon to farmers, security of tenure, was granted by lease of lives renewable for ever, with low rents, about half-a-crown the Irish acre, a small fine on each renewal, and abundance of turf. The country, we have observed already, abounded in timber. The oak, ash, elm, and yew supplied materials which the natives of France used with advantage; and dwellings of a type casting shadows of high-pitched roofs, and wide casemented windows, upon the waters of the Garonne and the Loire, were here reflected in the flowing Barrow. To have a house without a well-stocked garden, was not thought of; and the aspect of the sitting-rooms, looking to

Vide the "Ulster Journal of Archæology."

the plots of pleasure-ground, instead of the noisy streets, is indicative of the refined taste of the colonists. French trees were imported from their native land; the jargonelle pear is found to this day, and even a sunny spot, facing the south, raised a hope in the breast of a native of a wine country, that by care he might cultivate the grape of Languedoc in the land of exile.

The town now is remarkable for the regularity and cleanliness of its streets. There is a good bridge on the Barrow, on the road to Mountmellick, and another on the road to Rathangan. The public buildings are well suited to their respective purposes; and of churches, one is called the English, and the other the French church, built for the colonists, and until recently, service was conducted in the French language. Portarlington was long celebrated for its schools; and here, it is said, among other eminent pupils, were taught the late Marquis Wellesley and his Grace the Duke of Wellington.

About three miles from Portarlington, and eight from Dunamase, is the little village and ruined Castle of Lea, one of the first settlements of the English in Ireland. Having wrested the principality of Leix from the O'Mores, William, Earl Marshal, allotted it to his youngest daughter, who had married William de Braosa, Lord of Brecknock, and a strong fortress was erected on the banks of the Barrow, which resembled, in style and structure, the Castle of Dunamase. It was well defended on one side by the waters of the Barrow, on another by a deep morass, while formidable towers completed the means of resistence. But into these massive walls the turmoil of battle rolled; its commanding position speedily marked it a fitting cause of strife between the marchers of the Pale and the native chieftains. In

1292, Camden records it in the possession of one of the Geraldines, named John Fitzthomas, who, during the hostilities then desolating the land, brought hither Richard Earl of Ulster, in captivity. In 1315, Edward Bruce penetrated thus far

"Into the bowels of the land,"

and burned the castle, with the adjoining hamlet. On the decadence of the English power, during the reign of

that feeble monarch, Edward II., the star of the O'Mores was again in the ascendant, and the wide territory of Leix once more owned their sway. The sturdy Geraldine was too near a neighbour for their peace, and in 1534, he numbered the rebuilt Castle of Lea as one of his six strongholds. It was taken by the Irish in 1642, who held it until expelled by Lord Lisle, and an ash-tree, which reached a size to earn it the sobriquet of the Great Ash of Lea, beneath the branches of which a troop of horse found shelter, was planted in commemoration. When Cromwell led the Parliamentary forces in their devastating march throughout Ireland, he caused Colonels Hewso and Reynolds to undertake dismantung the Castle, which they effectually did, and the uprise of the neighbouring town of Portarlington completed the downfall of Lea.

As a proof that this country was formerly a dense wood, it is related that a gentleman who resided seven miles from Portarlington used to go the entire distance between his house and the town, squirrel-like, from branch to branch.

The district around Portarlington is rich in historic fame. Seven miles south stand the Drachenfels of Leis, Dunamase, the Dunum of Ptolemy. It is a commanding rock, inaccessible on all sides, save the east, and was first fortified by Laighseach O'More, about the beginning of the third century. At the time of the invasion, it was possessed by Dermod MacMur rough, from whom it passed to Strong. bow by his marriage with MacMur rough's daughter.

The waters of the river Fegule increase the depth of the Barrow on the borders of the County Kildare; and near the junction of the King's and Queen's Counties with the former, the Barrow makes a circular sweep, whence it runs south, and preserves nearly this course until merged in the sea. The banks are occasionally diversified by trees, that cast their branches over the stream, as if in admiration of their shadow

"Floating many a rood."

While we journeyed by the flowing river, comfortable farmhouses, surrounded by fields, golden with the promise of a luxuriant harvest, studded the landscape. The cheerful azure sky

was a bright arch of hope to the agriculturist, whose brow was somewhat clouded of late by the broken weather. Soft, downy clouds appeared in mid air, like masses of fleece, and soon the hum of industry proclaimed our proximity to a town. Here the sight of the long line of railway, the snort and fume of the engine, the rush and scream of the train as it was driven onward, the activity of station-masters and porters, announced one of the stations on the Great Southern and Western Railway, Monastereven. It is prettily situated on the eastern bank of the river, to which the principal line of houses runs parallel. These have tasteful gardens in front, sloping to the stream as it flows by. Other streets run from this one, and a bridge of six arches spans the Barrow. The town derived considerable advantages from the improvements effected by the Grand Canal Company, who constructed a cast-iron drawbridge over the canal here, and carried the canal across the river by means of an aqueduct, of three arches of forty feet span, well built of limestone, surmounted by an iron balustrade. The chief source of employ ment is from the extensive brewery of Mr. Cassidy, whose handsome residence forms one of the chief attractions to the town. The position of Monastereven, on the line of communication between the metropolis and interior of the country, renders it a place of considerable resort, but the town itself contains little to interest the visitor. An amusing chapter might be written upon the misfortune of being compelled to dwell in a country town, where, as Albert Smith says, "you are obliged to stay there like the market-place, or the sign-posts, or, especially, the pump.' Such a life would certainly have little variety, yet Monastereven has claim to a place in history. It derives the name from a monastery, which was made a place of sanctuary, tenanted by monks led hither by St. Emin, or Evin, in the sixth century. The pious inmates were not allowed to dwell in peace, for the Book of Lecan mentions the forcible seizure of this house by Cearbuil, occasioned the war in 908, between that monarch and Cormac Mac Culinan, King of Munster, in which the latter was defeated. The monastery being closed, and no longer occupied by the brotherhood, was refounded, towards the

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end of the twelfth century, by one of the kings of Offaly, and though situated on the Irish side of the Pale, the abbot sat as a baron in the AngloIrish Parliaments. On the suppression of monasteries, temp. Henry VIII., the abbey and manor became the property of George Lord Audley, who assigned them to one of the most remarkable men of his time, Adam Loftus, founder of the Ely family. At present they belong to the Marquis of Drogheda, whose spacious mansion, Moore Abbey, so called from the family name, is built on the site of the ancient monastery. It is a large, roomy structure, with embattled parapet, the entrance-hall wainscotted with Irish oak. Here Loftus Viscount Ely is said to have held the High Court of Chancery during the rebellion of 1641. On the marriage of the Lord Chancellor's daughter, Alice, with Charles, second Viscount Drogheda, Monastereven came into the Moore family. There are few remains of the ancient

structure now extant. Some sculptured ornaments, an old doorway in the southern front, and the great hall, being the principal. In 1767, the then Marquis of Drogheda built considerably. He walled in the demesne, which is very extensive, containing over a thousand acres. In the centre stands a high conical hill, whence an extensive view is obtained. All this land was at one time thickly wooded, and the rogues and rapparees of Offaly were accustomed to live here, in as much freedom and defiance of the laws of the land, as Robin Hood and his merry men in Sherwood Forest. In 1297, this circumstance was made ground of complaint against the abbot, who was accused of harbouring outlaws, but he proved he never, knowingly, received either felons or robbers, and as for the strangers, he had no power either to resist or detain them. The defence, however, was not quite successful, for the jury fined him half a mark for not raising the hue-and-cry, huetson et clamore, when offences were committed in his neighbourhood.

Although the march of centuries has obliterated most of these vast forests, where the Irish kerne found shelter, or the outlaw concealed his booty, plough or spade have not so completely uprooted brake or thicket as to divest the district of a character of na

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tive wildness. In our onward progress by the river's flow, we behold undulating slopes, and verdant inches, with high banks, thickly studded with copsewood and fern. There is little to call forth observation as we journey in this quarter. The soil at Fontstown is suitable either for tillage or pasture, and the bog of Monavolough affords fuel to the inhabitants. Fontstown is a pretty church, with tower and spire, in the species of architecture known as the later English; also a tastefully-designed schoolhouse. Fossil remains of the Irish elk were discovered here. These are in the possession of Mr. Bruen, of Oak Park, and a coin of King Ethelred, one of the monarchs of the Saxon Heptarchy, by some chance found its way hither, probably brought by one of those Saxon youths, who, according to Camden—

"Exemplo patrum commotus amore legendi

Juvit ad Hibernos, sophia mirabile claros."

We have left behind some islands in the river, and remains of deep interest to the archæologist now attract our notice. These consist of the site of the ancient city of Rheban, mentioned by Ptolemy the Egyptian geographer, who described Ireland in the second century, whether from actual observation, or the accounts he received from the Phoenician merchants who traded here, is matter of conjecture. This place was evidently of importance, as appears from the remains of fortifications, shown by a deep quadrangular intrenchment, having a high conical mount on the west side; the name, too, Risban signifies the habitation of the king. A castle, commanding a pass over the river, was one of the outposts of the princes of Hy-Lavigseagh, or Leix, until success in the acquisition of territory enabled them to extend their boundaries. It continued a place of moment to the time of the Invasion, when the chief-seat of the O'Mores, Dunamase, having fallen, Rheban was granted, with its tributary castles and appurtenances, to William, Earl Marshal, created Lord Palatine of Leinster. He subsequently granted Rheban to Richard de St. Michael, created Baron of Rheban, who, temp. King John, erected a lordly castle, one of the strongholds of the Pale. For above a century

"The battled towers-the donjon-keep

The loophole-grates, where captives weep;
The flanking towers that round it sweep,
In yellow lustre shone."

But during the decline of the English power, in the reign of Edward II., the O'Mores rose in strength, and repos sessed themselves of all their old territories-among them Rheban and its castle which they long retained. It came, by the peaceful acquisition of marriage, into the hands of the Geraldines, Thomas Fitzgerald, Lord of Offaly, afterwards seventh Earl of Kildare, having, about the year 1424, married Dorothea, daughter of Anthony O'More, and received, as her portion, the manors of Rheban and Woodstock, How long it remained the abode of peace and love, we cannot say ; but when again the trumpet-horn of war sounded along the Barrow, it brought the tide of battle to the walls of Rheban. In 1642, a detachment of the army, commanded by the Marquis of Ormond, possessed themselves of the Castle, and, during the short but successful career of one of the bravest men of his time, Owen Roe O'Neil, it fell into his hands, in 1648. When forced to make terms with Lord Inchiquin, Owen Roe declared his readiness to surrender Athy, Maryborough, and Rheban, provided the confederate Catholics might be allowed the same privileges they enjoyed in the time of King James. Though ruined and neglected, the moss-grown walls show its pristine strength, and mullioned windows bespeak its ancient splendour.

The opposite district is Kilberry, and the island near the junction of the Finnery river with the Barrow, is called Kilberry Island. There are some handsome seats along the river, in this parish, and the remains of two castles, one called Boisles' Castle. Lower down is Toberara Well, one of the holy wells of Ireland, dedicated to St. John.

It is pleasant to watch day dawn either in country or town. First, the eye perceives a rose-hued light slowly creeping over the eastern sky, and white vapours ascending from field or river; fogs, like smoke from new-lit fires, roll from the mountain-tops and houseroofs; buildings hid by the night haze are revealed; quiet tints of grey fall like snow, and form, so to speak, the groundwork of the picture, when suddenly bright beams are reflected from windows and slates, wet with the morning dews; birds sing loudly their matin hymns, and, lo! a new day has descended from heaven.

We were early a-foot in Athy,

a small town pleasantly situated on the river, which is navigable from this town to Ross, where the Nore meets it, and then the united waters are available for shipping to the sea at Waterford. The Grand Canal connects Athy with Dublin by water, and it is the first station reached on the Carlow branch of the Great Southern and Western Railway. There is not much to excite curiosity in the town, consisting of a principal street, separated into two portions by the Barrow, spanned by a strong-built bridge, of five arches. It boasts a neat square, called Market-square, and smaller streets diverge from the main street. Considerable trade in corn is carried on. Fuel is obtained from the neighbouring bog, at a low rate, and the markets are well supplied. In conjunction with Naas, it is the assize-town of the County Kildare; and, from the earliest days, was of note in the annals of Ireland. It derives its name from an ancient ford called Athelehac, or Athlegar, the "Ford to the West," which led from the country of Leix towards Caellan, and was the scene of a great battle, in the third century, between the warriors of Munster and Leix. It was here that Donogh, son of Brien Borohme, led his forces across the Barrow, on their return from conquering the Danes at Clontarf. In their progress through the neighbouring country of Ossory, occurred the interesting circumstance which our national bard has recorded in one of his immortal melodies:

"Forget not our wounded companions who stood In the day of distress by our side;

While the moss of the valley grew red with their
blood,

They stirred not, but conquered and died.
The sun that now blesses our arms with his light,
Saw them fall upon Ossory's plain,

Oh! let him not blush, when he leaves us to-night,
To find that they fell there in vain."

The incident is thus mentioned in O'Halloran's "History of Ireland." When they were interrupted in their return from the battle of Clontarf, by Fitzpatrick, Prince of Ossory, the wounded menentreated that they might be allowed to fight with the rest. "Let stakes, (they said), be stuck in the ground, and suffer each of us, tied to and supported by one of these stakes, be placed in his rank, by the side of a sound man."

Between seven and eight hundred wounded men, pale, emaciated, and supported in this manner, appeared mixed with the foremost of the troops; never was such another sight exhibited.

Around Athy circles the memory of events graven deep in the soil by the swords of chieftains. A frontier town of the Pale, it presents many traces of defence works; and it is to be hoped the spirit of old renown survives in the breast of the lords of the soil on whose land these ruins remain, and induces them to take care to prevent any vestige of past glory being injured. How strange, amid the din of war, to find Religion raising her milk-white banner-the dove of peace descending among the vultures. Two monasteries were founded by the English, one on the left bank of the Barrow, by Richard de St. Michael, Lord of Rheban, in 1253, for crutched friars; the other, on the east bank, in the thirteenth century, for monks of the Dominican order. But the presence of these pious communities was not safeguard enough to ward off the fiery torch of the foe. Like the war-cry of the Macgregor there came the shout

"Roof to the flame and flesh to the eagle," from many a tongue. In 1308, the Irish burnt the town, which must have been speedily rebuilt, for it was plundered, in 1315, by the Scots under Bruce, after he gained the battle of Ardscull, in which several persons of note were killed. The Scots lost in that fight Sir Fergus Andresson and Sir Walter Murray, who were interred in the Dominican monastery of Athy. After the lapse of a century, the Lord Justice of Ireland, considering this town one of the keys to the Marches of Kildare, in order more securely to preserve it as a guard to this part of the country, placed it in charge of a military governor; and about the year 1506, a strong castle was built, on the east bank of the Barrow, by Gerald, eighth Earl of Kildare, for the defence of the town. This castle being repaired and enlarged, in 1575, by a person named White, is now called White's Castle. This castle was strug gled for during the Great Rebellion. The Irish, under Owen Roe O'Neil, held it until it was taken by the Par

"History of Ireland." Book xii., chap. i.

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