Графични страници
PDF файл
ePub

66

Now," said his host, "you have not quite earned | your money yet; but what I require you to do is not more difficult than what you have already done. I shall be in the gallery to-morrow while the drawing is going on, and when I nod at you,- thus, but not before, replace this ticket in the wheel, only be sure you do not leave go of it, but draw it forth exactly as if you had just taken it out in the usual way. That is all that I have to ask, and you shall receive five guineas more for your trouble."

On the Friday morning Thornhill kept his eye upon his friend in the gallery, and when he gave the sign agreed upon, after the drawing had gone on for an hour or so, out came No. 21,481, which, I believe, was a blank. It really seemed as if no harm could possibly have been done to anybody, or any object gained by the transaction. But for all that, I well remember how wretchedly ill poor Thornie looked throughout the previous day, and how silent he was concerning his own part in the proceedings, about which he was usually very boastful, telling us how the ladies in the gallery had smiled upon him, and bade him bring them luck, and how the Lord Mayor himself had patted his curly head. He knew that he had done something very wrong, even if no mischief should actually come of it, and, as he afterwards confessed, he was racked by the idea that the friend of his family might not return him the ticket, in which case exposure and disgrace were certain; and they came about, although not quite in that

way.

An

eye;

alembic of his own, to distil his mental essences.
artist of another kind takes his stand in the outer
world, and combines his essences for the solace and
gratification of the senses themselves. All the vari-
ous sounds of nature are combined harmoniously to
soothe the ear, her colors blent to please the
the food that must be taken is so prepared as to give
its passing contribution of pleasure to the palate,
and among the nicest, keenest, and most delicate of
our sensual gratifications must be reckoned those
agreeable feelings impressed upon the olfactories by
odoriferous emanations. As, therefore, all the gifts
and bounties of nature in their elemental condition
are meant for our good, so each artist in his several
sphere who combines and arranges them, so as to
bestow and express their best influences upon man,
is, to that extent, his benefactor.

A work has just now appeared, written by a practical operator in the department of chemistry that concerns itself in the development, analysis, and combination of the various aromas latent in the animal and vegetable world, a perusal of which will afford as much pleasure to the cultivated mind as any of the essences detailed in it may give to the olfactory sense. It is professedly an illustration of the art of perfumery; but the great body of the work, as indeed the author confesses, is more a history of perfumery from the earliest times to the present day, consisting altogether of twelve chapters: nine of them are taken up in tracing the history of odoriferous compounds through the various Upon the Thursday, when the ticket was not in nations of the Egyptians, Jews, Asiatics, Greeks, the wheel, the man who had given the bribe went Romans, Orientals, and Moderns. The work, howabout to all the offices insuring the ticket against ever, more properly divides itself into four grand being drawn on the next day; and it was probably sections: the first containing a short analysis of the only his greediness which betrayed this promising physiology of odors; then the principal feature of scheme of fraud, and prevented it from being car- the work, their history; thirdly, a short description ried out again and again. The fellow had insured of the various modes in use for extracting the esin one office no less than six times over, and his per- sences of plants and flowers, and concluding with a tinacity so excited the suspicions of the office-keep-summary of the principal fragrant materials used ers, that when the ticket was drawn, as I have stated, in our manufactures. both Thornhill and himself were arrested, and the former was easily induced to reveal all the circumstances. Neither he nor his tempter was punished judicially, for as it happened, the particular offence had not been contemplated by the law. But I shall never forget poor Thornie's face when he was publicly expelled from our school, nor the face of his widowed mother, who had come to intercede with the authorities, in vain, on behalf of her only son.

THE BOOK OF PERFUMES.*

[ocr errors]

Among other beneficial influences arising from the contact of sweet odors upon the nervous system, and thence transmitted to the brain, the writer alleges a mental and even a moral benefit to accrue. To make this assertion good, however, would open up too large a field of metaphysical speculation. One may say, in general, that it is not the mere reception of any of the soothing influences, either of nature or art, that necessarily inspires the feeling of gratitude any more than the act of bestowing alms naturally evokes it in the recipient. It is, perhaps, therefore more strictly a poetical than a spiritual influence the author paints in opening his volume, when he says, beautifully enough:

"Who has not felt revived and cheered by the balmy fragrance of the luxuriant garden or the flowery meadow? Who has not experienced the delightful sensation caused by inhaling a fresh breeze loaded with the spoils of the flowery tribe, sweet south so beautifully described by Shake

WHEN the idealist turns his attention to the human senses, those inlets that admit the various emanations of the outer world to the sensorium,-he gives them but a secondary place in his regard. To him they are not an end, but a means, vehicles of thought, or rather of the rude materials whence thought is ultimately elaborated. No doubt as one kind of vehicle or one mode of transit may be better than another in forwarding his ideas to that mys-speare, as terious laboratory of the mind, he may occasionally prefer their passage through and conveyance to that of another. One kind of sensations may come to him better through the eye than through the ear, as Horace tells us; and another may come handier by touch than by smell; but he does not prepare them in the outer world and send them on: he takes them just as they do come, and passes them through an

By Eugene Rimmel.

'Breathing upon a bank of violets,
Stealing and giving odor'?

that

An indescribable emotion then invades the whole being: the soul becomes melted in sweet rapture," and silently offers up the homage of its gratitude to the Creator for the blessings showered upon us, whilst the tongue slowly murmurs, with Thomson:'Soft roll your incense, herbs and fruits and flowers, In mingled clouds to Him, whose sun exalts, Whose breath perfumes you, and whose pencil paints.'

There is, however, less doubt about its power over some of the faculties of the mind, especially the memory, in recalling long past scenes and emotions. "Jean Jaques Rousseau, Zimmerman, and other authors say that the sense of smell is the sense of imagination. There is no doubt that pleasant perfumes exercise a cheering influence on the mind, and casily become associated with our remembrances. Sounds and scents share alike the property of refreshing the memory and recalling vividly before us the scenes of our past life, an effect which Thomas Moore beautifully illustrates in his Lalla Rookh:

The young Arab, haunted by the smell
Of her own mountain flowers, as by a spell,
The sweet Elcaya, and that courteous tree
Which bows to all who seek its canopy,-

Sees, called up round her by these magic scents,
The well, the camels, and her father's tents;
Sighs for the home she left with little pain,
And wishes ev'n its sorrows back again,'

:

can be more dissimilar. Fourcroy divided them into five series, and De Haller into three. All these were, however, more theoretical than practical; and none classified odors by their resemblance to each other. I have attempted to make a new classification, comprising only pleasant odors, by adopting the principle that, as there are primary colors from which all secondary shades are composed, there are also primary odors with perfect types, and that all other aromas are connected more or less with them."

It was a very common opinion among some of the ancient doctors, as Creton, Hippocrates, and others, that perfumes had a medicinal effect in curing certain diseases, especially those of a nervous kind. Pliny even ascribes therapeutic properties to various aromatic substances. Our modern doctors, on this, as on so many other points, disagree; some maintaining the curative power of certain medicated perfumes, others denying any such influence. Our

Tennyson expresses the same feeling in his Dream author denies both sides of the question in the of Fair Women:

The smell of violets, hidden in the green,
Poured back into my empty soul and frame

The times when I remember to have been
Joyful and free from blame.'"'

The art of the perfumer is like that of other arts, an endeavor to copy Nature. "He strives to imitate the fragrance of all flowers which are rebellious to his skill, and refuse to yield up their essence. Is he not, then, entitled to claim the name of Artist, if he approaches, even faintly, the perfections of his charming models?"

In effecting a classification of all the various odors in the art of perfumery, a wonderful example of the power of habit or tracing of a special faculty is given. The late lamented Dr. George Wilson, of Edinburgh, wrote a work on "Color Blindness," proving that many people have eyes but see not, or only see without being able to distinguish between the various tints and hues by which nature is so richly adorned. Our author, as may be inferred from his motto,* seems to think the same thing as to some of our noses, or if we have that useful organ physically appended, it might to all the intents and purposes of perfumery have been as well dispensed with. But it is a good thing that Nature ever makes compensation for any such defect in one individual by its superabundance of possession in another. It is said of Coleridge, the poet, that when passing through the streets of Cologne, he endeavored to reckon up all the different kinds of smell pervading that town, and found, or said he found, them to amount to seventy-two in number. Surely, if he possessed a nasal talent so acute as this he was more naturally intended for a perfumer than a poet. Admitting, however, some poetic license in this enumeration, no doubt a perfumer's nose by constant practice must have its perceptions wonderfully quickened; and as a practical man, our author's new classification, even though running counter to some of the fathers in botany, must be admitted to be good authority.

Linnæus, the father of modern botanical science, divided them into seven classes, three of which only were pleasant odors, the aromatic, the fragrant, and the ambrosial; but however good his general divisions may have been, this classification was far from correct, for he placed carnation with laurel leaves and saffron with jasmine, than which nothing

"Non cuique datum est habere nasum."

abstract, but rather, if anything, inclines to the opinion that in "moderation," they are beneficial.

Another popular fallacy he demolishes regarding flowers in a sleeping-room, which many will, no doubt, be pleased to hear.

[ocr errors]

It is true that flowers, if left in a sleeping apartment all night, will sometimes cause headache and sickness; but this proceeds, not from the diffusion of their aroma, but from the carbonic acid they evolve during the night. If a perfume extracted from these flowers were left open in the same circumstances, no evil effect would arise from it. All that can be said is, that some delicate people may be affected by certain odors; but the same person to whom a musky scent would give a headache might derive much relief from a perfume with a citrine basis. Imagination has, besides, a great deal to do with the supposed noxious effects of perfumes. Dr. Cloquet, who may be deemed an authority on this subject, of which he made a special study, says in his able Treatise on Olfaction: "We must not forget that there are many effeminated people to be found in the world who imagine that perfumes are injurious to them, but their example cannot be adduced as a proof of the bad effects of odors. Thus Dr. Thomas Capellini relates the story of a lady who fancied she could not bear the smell of a rose, and fainted on receiving the visit of a friend who carried one, and yet the fatal flower was only artificial.'"

In the historical parts of this work, extending over nine of its longest chapters, there is doubtless much that is far from new. The reader whose classical studies have extended any considerable way into the history of those early nations, must be familiar with most of what is there detailed; but to the nonclassical, and to ladies generally, whose educational readings may not have tended in that direction, the representation there given of ancient manners and customs, interspersed with many pleasing anecdotes well fitted in, and the whole so richly redolent of perfume, must have a peculiar charm. The writer's own account of it is, that it is a piece of mosaic work, and we are bound to add that it is well put together, and the colors harmoniously blent. One sometimes wonders, on reading some parts of it, how its author, who has achieved some fame as an operative perfumer and inventor of new compounds, can have found time to travel away so far from his laboratory collecting so much of the lore of antiquity as adheres to his artistic details. The style, too, is

that of a practised pen, light and perspicuous; and savor," —may lead us to assume that such was the to say it is readable is not enough, it is most inter-case. esting. We learn from these descriptive illustrations, confirmed by the records of ancient writers and the numerous implements found intact in the tombs, that perfumes were extensively consumed in Egypt, and applied to three distinct purposes, offerings to the gods, embalming the dead, and uses in private life.

[ocr errors]

"It was, however, in their grand religious processions that they made the most luxurious display of perfumes. In one of those, described as having taken place under one of the Ptolemies, marched one hundred and twenty children bearing incense, myrrh, and saffron in golden basins, followed by a number of camels, some carrying three hundred pounds weight of frankincense, and others a similar quantity of crocus, cassia, cinnamon, orris, and other precious aromatics."

The purification of women, as ordained by law, caused also a great consumption of aromatics. It lasted a whole year, the first six months being accomplished with oil of myrrh, and the rest with other sweet odors. Perfumes were also one of the means of seduction resorted to by Judith when she went forth to seek Holofernes in his tent, and liberate her people from his oppression. But the most complete description of the various aromatics used by the Jews is to be found in the Song of Solomon, in which the frequent mention of perfumes made in it shows that they must have been well known and appreciated at the Jewish court. The common account given of the death of Sardanapalus is perhaps the most striking instance among the Assyrians of their passion for perfumes. This account is, however, disputed by some historians, but the fact of his The Egyptian belief in the transmigration of souls passion for cosmetics and perfumes is well enough is thought to be one of the reasons for the very great known; and even the account of Dures and other care they took in embalming the bodies of their historians given of the manner of his death, agrees dead; that after having concluded their long jour- with it. They say that "Arbaces, one of his generney, the souls might find their original envelopes in als, having gone to visit Sardanapalus, found him a. tolerable state of preservation. Looking upon any painted with vermilion and clad in female garb. one of those shrivelled relics stretched out in mourn-He was just in the act of pencilling his eyebrows ful state in the British Museum, our mind naturally recurs to the lines,

"And thou hast walked about, - how strange a story! -
In Thebes's streets three thousand years ago,
When the Memnonium was in all its glory,

And time had not begun to overthrow
Those temples, palaces, and piles stupendous,
Of which the very ruins are tremendous."

in the sculptures of Persepolis."

when Arbaces entered, and the general was so indignant at the effeminacy of the monarch that he stabbed him on the spot. The Persians borrowed from the Medes their taste for perfumes and cosmetics. Such was their predilection for perfumes, that they usually wore on their heads crowns made of myrrh and a sweet-smelling plant called labyzus. In the palaces of monarchs and individuals of rank But we are here also reminded of the account aromatics were constantly burning in richly-wrought given to Herodotus regarding the mode and opera-vessels, - -a custom of which we find an illustration tion by which the mummy was made up. "They first extracted the brains through the nostrils by means of a curved iron probe, and filled the head with drugs. Then making an incision in the side with a sharp Ethiopian stone, they drew out the intestines, and inserted into the cavity powdered myrrh, cassia, and other perfumes, frankincense excepted. After sewing up the body, they kept it in natron for seventy days, and then wrapped it up entirely with bands of fine linen smeared with gum, and laid it in a wooden case made in the shape of a man, which they placed upright against the

wall.

"The taste for perfumes and cosmetics went on increasing in Egypt until the time of Cleopatra, when it may be said to have reached its climax. This luxurious queen made a lavish use of aromatics, and it was one of the means of seduction she brought into play at her first interview with Mark Antony on the banks of the Cydnus, which is so beautifully described by Shakespeare."

The greatest admirer of perfumes among ancient Asiatic monarchs seems to have been Antiochus Epiphanes, or the Illustrious, king of Syria. At all his feasts, games, and processions perfumes held the first place.

"The king was once bathing in the public baths, when some private person, attracted by the fragrant odor which he shed around, accosted him, saying, 'You are a happy man, O king; you smell in a most costly manner.' Antiochus, being much pleased with the remark, replied, 'I will give you as much as you can desire of this perfume.' The king then ordered a large ewer of thick unguent to be poured over his head, and a multitude of poor people soon collected around him to gather what was spilled. This caused the king infinite amusement, but it made the place so greasy that he slipped and fell on his back in a most undignified manner, which put an end to his merriment."

Among the Greeks, who had that peculiar taste for immortalizing and worshipping everything that was pleasing and grateful to the senses, it is not to be wondered at that they ascribed a divine origin to perfumes. In other cases they invested the attri butes of their deities with odoriferous attractions. The apparition of a goddess is never mentioned without speaking of the ambrosial fragrance which she shed around her; and as they revelled in nectar and ambrosia, -a kind of food unknown to mortals, -so had they also specially reserved for their use some of the most delicious perfumes.

The Jews, from their long captivity in Egypt, brought back with them into their own country a knowledge of perfumery. Long before that time, however, they had probably discovered the aromatic properties of some of their native gums, and, prompted by that natural instinct to which I have already alluded, they had offered those fragrant treasures on the altars raised to their God. Thus we find Noah, on issuing from the Ark, expressing his gratitude to the Almighty for his wonderful preservation by a sacrifice of burnt-offerings composed of every clean beast and every clean fowl. It is At all the religious festivals of the Greeks we true that Genesis does not mention incense as hav-know that aromatics were consumed in large quantiing formed part of the holocaust; but the very ties, and no Mahometan paradise can surpass their words that follow,-"and the Lord smelled a sweet elysium. There they were to find a golden aty,

drachmæ."

with emerald ramparts, ivory pavement, and cinna- | to a fine which varied according to the offence, and mon gates. Around the walls flowed a river of per- sometimes reached the high sum of a thousand fumes one hundred cubits in width, and deep enough to swim in. From this river rose an odorous mist, The Romans, in the art of perfumery, as in almost which enveloped the whole place and shed a refresh- every other art but that of war, were the copyists of ing and fragrant dew. There were to be besides in the Greeks. It was long, indeed, before the effemithis fortunate city three hundred and sixty-five foun-nating and luxurious fashions of the latter made tains of honey and five hundred of the sweetest es- progress among them, and when they did, it was sence. A portion of this heavenly fragrance was more in the decline of their power than in their also sometimes dispensed on earth to some protégé, rising greatness. Nevertheless, among the upper as a mark of great favor. "Thus when Penelope classes and the refined, their use was largely reprepares to receive her suitors, Eurynome advises sorted to. In their baths and dining chambers her to dispel her grief and diffuse the grace of the richest and most costly perfumes were abununction over her cheeks'; but the virtuous matron dant. Three kinds were principally used,―solid refused. Pallas, however, visits her during her unguents, liquid unguents, and powdered perfumes. abumbers, and sheds over her some wonderful per- One of those most in favor with the Romans was fume, which was probably called in those times the saffron; they had not only their apartments and Venus bouquet."" "Phaon, the Lesbian pilot, hav-banqueting-halls strewed with this plant, but they ing once conveyed in his vessel to Cyprus a mysteri- also composed with it unguents and essences, which ous passenger, whom he discovers to be Venus, re- were highly prized. "Some of the latter were ceives from the goddess, as a parting gift, a divine often made to flow in small streams at their enteressence, which changes his coarse face into the most tainments, or to descend in odorous dews over the beautiful features. Poor Sappho, who sees him after public from the velarium forming the roof of the his transformation, becomes smitten with his charms; amphitheatre." In addition to their liquid essences but finding her love unrequited, is driven to seek a and unguents, they also made use of an immense watery grave." This miracle, says our author, beats variety of cosmetics for improving and preserving all the vaunted achievements of modern perfumery, the complexion. These, according to Pliny, who even including the "patent enamelling" process, describes their preparation, were certain kinds of which if applied to gentlemen, would not, I am pastes or poultices, that were kept on the face all afraid, attract many Sapphos. Perfumers' shops night, and part of the day; some, indeed, only rein Greece were the resort of loungers, as modern moved them for the purpose of going out, alluded cafés are in the South of Europe. "Even the tat-to by Juvenal, in one of his Satires, where he says, tered cynic, Diogenes, did not disdain to enter them" A Roman husband seldom sees his wife's face at now and then, leaving his tub at the door; but with a praiseworthy spirit of economy, he always applied the ointments he bought to his feet; for, as he justly observed to the young sparks, who mocked him for his eccentricity, When you anoint your head with perfume it flies away into the air, and the birds only get the benefit of it; whilst I rub it only on my lower limbs it envelopes my whole body, and gratefully ascends to my nose.'

[ocr errors]

home, but when she sallies forth." Another device, besides poulticing, was tried by Poppaa, the wife of Nero, "who used to bathe in asses' milk every day, and when she was exiled from Rome, obtained permission to take with her fifty asses to enable her to continue her favorite ablutions."

Our author devotes some pages of his work at the end of each chapter, on the Roman and Greek periods, to detailing the different modes of dressing the hair then prevalent, which may possibly have an interest to some, but seems rather apart from the general object of his work. It does not appear, however, amidst all their elaborations for that purpose, that they had reached our climax in hairdressing by machinery.

Among the Orientals, in all times of their history, a taste for perfumes has prevailed, and at the present day all classes seek to gratify it to their utmost according to their means. It is cultivated among

What young Grecian belle, whose radiant beauty might be marred by some disfiguring spot or speckle, could fail to believe in the curative power of sweet odors on hearing of an effect like this on one of her countrywomen? "Milto, a fair young maiden, the daughter of an humble artisan, was in the habit of depositing every morning garlands of fresh flowers in the temple of Venus, her poverty preventing her from indulging in richer offerings. Her splendid beauty was once nearly destroyed by a tumor which grew on her chin; but she saw in a dream the god-ladies, who, caring little or nothing for mental acdess, who told her to apply to it some of the roses quirements, and debarred from the pleasures of sofrom her altar. She did so, and recovered her ciety, are driven to resort to such sensual enjoycharms so completely that she eventually sat on the ments as their secluded life will afford. They love Persian throne as the favorite wife of Cyrus." to be in an atmosphere redolent with fragrant odors, Our ladies of the present day would no doubt that keep them in a state of dreamy languor, which rebel against any such arbitrary edict as would com- is for them the nearest approach to happiness. pel them to wear their garments in one particular Many are the cosmetics brought into use to enhance manner, or according to a certain legal cut. More their charms, and numerous are the slaves who lend arbitrary than the law of fashion, however, it could their assistance to perform that important task, some not be; and were the former to override the latter correcting with a whitening paste the over-warm sometimes in this respect, as in the case of those tint of the skin, some replacing with an artificial enormous amplitudes now so prevalent in female bloom the faded roses of the complexion." A deattire, it may be a question whether it would not be duction is here made by Mr. Rimmel, which is perfor the better. Such was the case, at least, at haps rather ambiguous, and certainly seems to be Athens. "The cares and duties of the toilette were opposed to most common notions of beautifying the deemed of such importance, that a tribunal was in-person by artificial means. After describing the stituted to decide on all matters of dress. And a "red-tipped fingers" and "darkened eyelids" of woman whose péplon or mantle was not of correct these fair creatures, he says: "And it may fairly be cut, or whose head-dress was neglected, was liable | presumed that the constant cares which they bestow

upon themselves have the effect of increasing and preserving their beauty." We had thought that all such face adornments spoiled the natural complexion, and it is perhaps hardly what the author means, for an extract is given from the traveller Sonnini, that more alludes to the benefits of "bathing "and "cleanliness," which are doubtless good beauty preservers, than to any other superficial device. The answer given by Beau Brummel to the person who asked him what perfume he used for his linen, showed a good appreciation of Nature's own cosmetics, in the general make-up of his appointments, Country air and country washing," said the Beau. These Oriental dames, or any other ladies desirous of arresting the ravages of time, and preserving their charms, would also perhaps find this as good a recipe for that purpose as any other artificial cosmetic. "Good airing" was indeed an especial requisite in many things with Brummel. He never went out in the morning until the day was well

66

aired.

may be, they do not possess the intensity of odor required for extraction, and the greater part of those used in France for perfumery would only grow here in hot-houses. The only flower which could be had in abundance would be the rose, but the smell of it is faint compared with that of the Southern rose; and the rose-water made in this country can never equal the French in strength. If we add to this the shortness of the flowering season, and the high price of land and labor, we may arrive at the conclusion that such a speculation would be as bad as that of attempting to make wine from English grapes. The only perfumery ingredients in which England really excels are lavender and peppermint; but that is owing to the very cause which would militate against the success of other flowers in this country, for our moist and moderate climate gives those two plants the mildness of fragrance for which they are prized, whilst in France and other warm countries they grow strong and rank.”

manufacture of scents, soaps, cosmetics, and other toilet requisites is carried on chiefly in London and Paris, which may be called the head-quarters of perfumery, and the emporium for all other parts of the world. The products of Germany, Russia, Spain, and the United States are mostly counterparts of the London and Paris manufacturers.

The four processes in use for extracting the aroma It is a very common but true analogy that is so from fragrant substances are, distillation, expres‐ often drawn between the infancy of man and the in- sion, maceration, and absorption. Grasse, Cannes, fancy of a nation. In both, the faculties are undi- and Nice, all in the South of France, are the prinrected and unexpanded; in the former from their cipal towns where the maceration and absorption own natural imperfection, and in the latter from the processes are carried on, and above a hundred want of suitable objects for their development. The houses are engaged in these operations, and in the olfactories of children are not nice in their discrim- distillation of essential oils, giving employment darination, and those of any untutored people showing the flower season to ten thousand people. The equally fantastic preferences, and would perhaps select some of the most rancid smells to the finest productions in the perfumer's laboratory. Such was the case in the early stages of our own history in this country. "The Druids knew, however, and highly prized, the numerous aromatic plants indigenous to the soil. Druidesses crowned their brows with verbena, and composed with fragrant herbs The principal manufactures of toilet-soap are in mysterious balms which cured the heroes' wounds, London, where there are about sixty into which feand enhanced the charms of the fair." The Roman male labor has been introduced for nearly twenty conquest introduced the graceful costumes and elab-years. The English toilet-soaps are the very best orate cosmetics of Italy, and the provinces soon that are made. The French come next, and those rivalled the metropolis in elegance and refinement. of Germany are the worst. Barbarism, however, again supervened, and "per- In concluding his chapter on the commerce of fumes did not come into general use in England perfumes, Mr. Rimmel offers a few words of advice until the reign of Elizabeth. In the fifteenth year to ladies on the choice of their perfumes and cosmetof her reign, the Earl of Oxford came from Italy, ics, which, coming from so competent an authority, and brought with him gloves, sweet bags, a per- cannot but be thankfully received. "The selection fumed leather jerkin, and other pleasant things, and of a perfume is entirely a matter of taste; and I that year the Queen had a pair of perfumed gloves. should no more presume to dictate to a lady which She took such pleasure in these gloves, that she scent she should choose than I would to an epicure was pictured with them upon her hands, and for what wine he is to drink; yet I may say to the ner many years afterwards it was called the Earl of vous, use simple extracts of flowers, which can never Oxford's perfume. On another occasion, when hurt you, in preference to compounds which genvisiting the University of Cambridge, she was pre-erally contain musk and other ingredients likely to sented with a pair of perfumed gloves, and was so affect the head. Above all, avoid strong, coarse delighted with them that she put them on at once. perfumes, and remember, that if a woman's temper She also usually carried with her a pomander, which may be told from her handwriting, her good taste was a ball composed of ambergris, benzoin, and and good breeding may as easily be ascertained by other perfumes, and with the gift of a "faire gyrdle the perfume she uses. Whilst a lady charms us with of pomander," which was a series of pomanders the delicate ethereal fragrance she sheds around her, strung together and worn round the neck. These aspiring vulgarity will as surely betray itself by a pomanders were supposed to be preservatives from mouchoir redolent of common perfumes. infection.

The manufacture for extracting the aroma of flowers and plants is carried on chiefly in the South of France, Italy, Spain, Turkey, Algeria, India, in fact, wherever the climate gives to flowers and plants that intensity of odor necessary for a profitable extraction.

The proposal to cultivate flowers in England for perfumery purposes has ever been found impracticable. "However beautiful in form and color they

"Hair preparations are like medicines, and must be varied according to the consumer. For some, pomatum is preferable; for others, oil; whilst some again require neither, and should use hair-washes or lotions. A mixture of lime-juice and glycerine has lately been introduced, and has met with great suc cess, for it clears the hair from pellicles, the usual cause of premature baldness. For all these things, however, personal experience is the best guide

"Soap is an article of large consumption, and

« ПредишнаНапред »