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light no more. If novels are purchas- spirits who are resident among them, ed or read they must combine historic and of whose qualities, whether good anecdote, or must refer to some of our or bad, the mass must in some degree best interests. The genius of romance partake, as the stream reflects the appears to have died long since, and brightness or opaqueness of the clouds the ravings of Maturin will never that roll above it. A man may poswake her from her slumbers, or retard sess expansion of intellect, persevehis name one instant from the oblivion rance, and decision of character, suffito which it is so rapidly hastening. Of cient for a “director general” in late years female ability in literature sphere like this, but he will be a rare has been most conspicuous, and in fa- personage if he unites with all this, vour of morals, virtue, and religion, it example as well as precept; if he has has been actively and indefatigably ex- no vice to fling into the scale, no stateerted, and the reward that the authors liness that freezes all approach to him, may boast (besides the fame and pro and no individual interests, or petty fit) is the consciousness of having spleens, to gratify. All this may take been gifted with no talent which they place, nay will take place, while socihave misapplied, and of possessing, ety is constitated as it is, but we are in its fullest extent,

the sunshine of bold enough to argue, that this alloy, the breast.”

so commingled with ore, could not be While females are confessedly pos- presented to the view if a female, sessed of such vast means of doing gifted as we have mentioned, . were good, and so undeviating a disposition placed in the same sphere of action. to subdue evil, it behoves us to think The exertions of her pen, aided by the on the importance of females of talent, effects naturally produced by example, and how their minds may be well reg- the union of all that was useful in life, ulated in infant states. Their almost with so much that could embellish it, boundless influence in society has been and above all, the palpable happiness, sufficiently acknowledged in all ages both here and hereafter, that must reand need not be dwelt upon here: how sult from pursuing the same path she doubly important therefore, must their has trod, would gradually unfold itself influence be in a colony, whose charac- to the understanding of each being; ter for morality, temperance, and in- common sense could not slumber, or, dustry, remain to be formed, and who if she did, it would be but to arise must, according to the natural and ir- with increased resolutions to gain one resistible course of events, be moulded more progressive step in the scale of after the fashion of the few master- humanity.


WITH all the joyous anticipations themselves on our English ideas, ás to

of youthful fancy did a small the propriety of the proposed mode of coterie, which I had the advantage to passing the day; but our sight-seeing join during a hurried visit to the French propensities soon got the better of our capital, receive the intelligence, con- orthodox notions, and the carriage veyed to them on a brilliant Septem- was ordered to the door. The weaber morning, that it was the last day ther was most inviting, and there was of the Fête de St. Cloud*, and that an elasticity in the air which was calit would amount to an absolute misde- culated to infuse into even an Englishmeanour, to quit Paris without wit. man, that buoyancy of spirit on which nessing the gaieties and the agrémens our Gallic ' neighbours justly pique of this enlivening festival.

themselves : such sensations being It was Sunday morning, and some quite at variance with the condensing fey qualms of conscience obtruded effects of a London atmosphere. All * This fete occurs annually during three succes

Paris appeared in motion, and the sive Sundays, in or about the month of September. scene on the road through the Bois de


Boulogne presented an humble imita- ment, which beamed in every countetion, with respect to bustle and dust, of nance, and the universal spirit of vive the Epsom road during the races. la bagatelle which seemed to set all

The distance, however, from the the cares of this world at defiance, afcity not being great, the pedestrians forded ample field for the contemplawere numerous, and before quitting the tion of the mind. banks of the Seine, we observed seve- Raree shows, from which promises ral large sized barges, each bearing of unbounded amusement were held a ponderous freight of well stowed out to the lovers of conjuring, ropepassengers, and floating lazily with dancing, horsemanship, &c. lined the the stream towards the grand point main walk on each side, and did not of attraction.

differ much in general appearance After passing through the Champs from similar establishments at Elysees and the Barriere de Neuilly, suburban fairs, but there was nothing the road presents few objects of inter- which, in external pomp and magest, except a spot in nearly the centre nificence, could presume to vie with of the wood, where all the growth has the gorgeous display made on the like been levelled with the earth, and occasion by Messrs. Richardson, Gynwhere, if report says truth, the British gell and their fráternity. There was troops bivouacked previous to their many an expression truly French in entry into the capital.

the various gestures and orations of A short drive brought us to the ex- the charlatans and mountebanks who tremity of the village, where gens- severally endeavoured to lure the surd'armerie 'were stationed to prevent rounding crowd within their precincts: the nearer approach of the carriages, and there was a characteristic mercuImmediately on alighting several self- rialism in the very tap of their drums appointed valets volunteered their ser- as unlike as possible to the dull movices to brush the dust from our coats notonous beat of our itinerant musiand hats, and however we might have cians, which, by the bye, is rather too been disposed to repel their advances, closely imitated in our military bands.* they were accompanied by such an Detached ballad-singers here and air of politesse, and with such a sem- there collected groups of listeners blance of disinterested anxiety to please, around them, but there were no prethat it became impossible to receive tensions either in their style or music them otherwise than graciously. We to excite attention. Their melodies proceeded through a line of inferior would have been stale to the ears of a booths, to the gates of the gardevs or Londoner. park, where we soon found ourselves Roundabouts and swings in all their in the midst of the din and revelry of varieties were established in every a country fair with all its noisy accom- direction, and, mounted on wooden paniments, but the most indifferent ob- steeds, young aspirants to military server could not fail to be struck with honours displayed their skill in carrythe novelty of the scene and the pictu- ing off a ring on the point of a sword, resque groupings it afforded. The and other seats of dexterity. It was luxuriance of the woods (as is not very amusing to remark the ingenuity and usual in France,) here forming a minuteness of imitation so essentially prominent feature, the air of antiquated French, manifested in the erection of grandeur about the palace rising on an some of these vehicles. They were eminence above the foliage, the long

* A little more attention to this particular, triavenues and vistas with their interme

fling as it may appear, would very much inmedjate walks filled with the variegat

prove the effect of our military music. When the ed costume of countless multitudes, aid of our best bands was lately put in requisition from the martial uniform of the royal at the Opera-house to perform in the ballet of Alguard to the simply tasteful garb of the fred le Grand, it was found that the services of the humble Bourgeoise, all contributed an

principal drummer would not be available, as he abundant share of gratification to the

was totally fignorant of music. Some improve

ments in the mode of instruction have, I believe, eye; while the air of present enjoy- been partially adopted.

surmounted at the points by models of through several suites of apartments* ships completely rigged, each capable more remarkable for the splendour of of carrying several passengers, to their decorations than for their granwhich the three-fold movement was deur or extent. A valuable collection given of a vessel undulating through of paintings adorn the walls, and the the waves ; so that as close resem- productions which possessed merit, blance to sea sickness as could be did not fail to attract a full share of the procured on terra firma might be pur attention of the motley crowd, and to chased at the expense of a few sous. call forth many judicious and well 'ap

Numerous specimens of that thought- plied remarks. I could not help ob. less levity (which Joho Bull is apt ra- serving the difference between the dether too generally to attach to the portment of the lower classes in France French character) were observable and in our own country. It would be among this assemblage, and in no in- difficult to imagine the effect of a grastance was it more apparent than in tuitous and indiscriminate admission of the surprising facility with which all the visitants to a fair within five miles ages seemed to derive satisfaction from of the metropolis to the interior of a the most puerile pursuits. Vast num- royal palace, profusely decorated and bers of a mature age were diverting enriched with costly furniture, and themselves with infantile toys and mu, paintings. sical instruments; one especially, form- It is perhaps the immediate preed on the principle of the comb cover- sence of the gens-d'armerie which awes ed with paper, applied by a child to the populace into such order and prothe mouth, and producing a similar priety of demeanour; but I doubt discordant sound, appeared to furnish if the experiment would not prove a a source of inexhaustible gratification. dangerous one with us, even if Sir Numberless parties of old and young Richard Birnie with a host of his were to be seen sporting most joyous- myrmidons were to give their personal ly, and performing various gambols attendance. and evolutions on the green-sward, In passing through these apartments apart from the main throng.

my attention was arrested by a shortThis exhilirating scene presented built personage, whose general appearso many attractions to a stranger, that ance embodied my notions of the great part of the day had elapsed be- Parisian petit maitre of the last cenfore we were tempted to direct our cu, tury. He was the more interesting as riosity to the palace itself, towards and being the only one whom I met with from which a stream of visitors of eve- who evidently preserved the habit: ry class had been in perpetual motion and manners of the august race in their throughout the morning. Ascending original purity, had he not been so dethe rising ground towards the principal ficient in stature, I think he would entrance, the prospect of the surround- have presented a perfect beauideal of ing paysage increases in interest, and the tribe. To attempt a description of the calm repose of the rich and exten- his turn out, from the oily polish of sive landscape intersected here and his well curled locks, to his richly or there by the placid meanderings of the namented cane, would evince too great Seine, was well contrasted on this oc- a love of minuteness. The pains casion with the glimpses of active bus- which had been employed on the tle and merriment caught between the finish of both heads, were no doubt foliage immediately beneath us. Some equally well bestowed. Every thing gens-d'armes were stationed at the about him indicated the extreme of lodge to receive the deposits of sticks "shallow foppery," and empty conand parapluies, and having passed ceit, and he was so totally engrossed through this barrier, we soon found ourselves within the vestibule. Set- * The suite of rooms thrown open on these occating aside localities, however, we join

sions are only those of Monsieur. They are murl] ed the throng which passed on lei

exceeded in splendour by the apartments of the

King and the Duke D'Angouleme, which can be surely, and with the utmost decorum, seen on other days.


with his own sweet scented person, as world for

66 confusion worse to be perfectly unconscious of all that founded,” commend me to a French was passing around him.

kitchen in full play. A dozen differThe race of petit mâitres, and their ent cooks in full costume and on accotemporaries the macaronis, are near- tive service, were supplying the dely extinct; and, unlike the latter, they mands of about as many waiters, who appear to have died without issue. were each enforcing attention to his Dandyism is certainly not so prevalent respective wants, by a contest for supein Paris as with us, but whether this periority of lungs; this conflict of voiproceeds from a want of the esprit or ces was aided by the unceasing jargon the means, I shall not pretend to de- of the operative artistes, all of whom termine. Frenchmen are decidedly were talking at the same time, all in bad dressers, and must yield the supe- perpetual motion, and all engaged in riority to Englishmen in this particu- squabbling with each other for the diflar, as much as I am disposed to cede ferent culinary vessels, for of these it the like excellence to French ladies seemed necessary to apply a portion of above my own countrywomen. Even the contents of six or eight to each dish a Parisian elegante dressed correctly before it acquired the requisite piquanand consistently from head to foot, is a cy. I had every reason to be thankful complete “niger cygnus.”

that I had concluded my own meal beBefore leaving the environs of the fore I ventured to pry into these myspalace, we ascended some terrace teries; but there was a character about walks, which are usual accompani- this truly French exhibition, the effect ments to the royal edifice or chateaus of which was irresistibly ludicrous. of any note. They are here elevated We had the mortification to find on to a height above the level of the build- returning to the gardens, that we had ing, and from the summit the eye wan- missed the display of waterworks. ders over a very extensive horizon, pre. There was abundant means, however, senting a fertile and diversified tract of of consoling ourselves for this disapcountry. Various indistinct rumours pointment, and we proceeded with a now reached us that les grands eaux confident anticipation of amusement alloient jouer, and the multitude be- to witness the performances of the gan to quicken their steps towards dancing parties which were dispersed what appeared to constitute the great- throughout the grounds. In our proest attraction of the day. In a true gress we encountered some female spirit of John Bullism, however, we members of the royal family in their were not to be diverted from our carriages with some military attencourse, which, 1 blush to own, was di- dants, but their presence rather excited rected towards the dinner table. This in the crowd a kind of idle wonder, was supplied from one of the numer- than any very enthusiastic ebullitions ous restaurateurs established in the of royalty. The temporary platforms neighbourhood; and considering the for dancing, were tastefully fitted up concourse of company and the bustle in some picturesque spot of the garden, which necessarily prevailed, there was under the shelter of the loftier trees. no reason to complain either of indif- To each of them was attached a well serent fare or extortionate charges. appointed orchestra, filled by excellent

On sallying forth from the wooden bands of music, whose correct and building which formed our temporary tasteful performance of the contre dandining room, I was directed by an un- ses, would have done honour to Mr. usual dim and Babel-like confusion of Paine himself. The style and desounds proceeding from what proved portment of the dancers were such as to be the kitchen door. Prompted by to justify the expectations we are led curiosity, I ventured to set foot within to form of the superiority of la grande the threshold, and the extraordinary nation in all matters connected with peculiarity of the spectacle which pre- the heels. sented itself sufficed to reward me for There was no laboured attempt at my hardihood. Of all signts in the display, such as we may observe

among the lower classes in this coun- short, at the shrine of gallantry, a try; but every one executed his part Frenchman, whatever may be his rank of the quadrille with a grace and facil- in life, makes, with few exceptions, ity not unworthy of Almack’s. There every due sacrifice: he forsakes his was an evident mixture of classes, es- ribaldry, his oaths, his intemperance, pécially among the gentlemen, for and even his vulgarity of mien, in the there joined in the dance many officers, presence of a female. There were no whose splendid uniforms and rich dec- boozing or liquor shops to be seen, nor orations bespoke them of high rank, did I even observe one single instance and even in the same quadrille officers of indulgence in the luxury of a pipe and privates appeared mingled toge- or cigar. Give a Frenchman his glass ther. The attractions of some of the of lemonade or eau sucré, and his debelles were alone sufficiently inviting ; sires with respect to refreshing beverbut orged by ny fair companions, and age appear satisfied; on this occasion having hired chairs for the acommoda- the itinerant limonadiers mustered nution, I presently solicited the hand of merously, and were fully occupied in an interesting girl who formed one of dealing out their meagre potations a family group seated near us. The from the portable reservoirs suspended novelty of an English cavalier joining to their shoulders. the set afforded no little amusement, Night rapidly drawing its veil over and some of the lookers on appeared this mirthful assemblage, compelled us on the alert to indulge their quizzing reluctantly to withdraw from its fascipropensities. We took our station op- nations, and enables me now to release posite my partner's sister, who was my readers from a scene, which, howequally well dressed and possessed sim- ever inspiring in reality, I fear he has ilar personal attractions to herself, and long since thought sufficiently wearithe quadrille being ended, I recon- some upon paper.

I shall take leave, ducted her to her seat by the side of however, to suggest before parting, her parents, when I received her that one day, employed in examining thanks briefly but elegantly expressed, the peculiarities and characteristics and accompanied with a most graceful which such a festival cannot fail to degesture-I must not omit to mention, velop, is worth a whole month spent that the expences incurred on this oc- in traversing the streets of the capital. casion amounted to fifteen sous (7d.) The contrasts which an unprejuwhich included the hire of three chairs. diced Englishman is occasionally led I have not unfrequently taken a part to draw with bis own countrymen, are in similar scenes at our English fairs, not always flattering to their polish or and I have seen many an expression urbanity. Comparisons are at all of genuine and innocent enjoyment, times odious, but while we are careful and much lightness of step and heart; to show the follies and vices of our this, however, was mingled with so light hearted neighbours, for heaven's much boisterous mirth, perpetual strug- sake let us not be slow to appreciate as gle for precedence, and noisy efforts of well as imitate their excellences.), vulgarity as to spoil the barmony and Reprove me not for my want of nadisturb the general tranquility.“What?” tional pride, my honest friend Bulb, asks a writer, who has favoured the for I love thy many virtues, thy inde world with some amusing sketches of pendent spirit, and thy downright sinin and about the French capital, cerity, and it is for the love I bear thee, “would a Sunday's hop be, composed that I would fain see thee profit by of the inhabitants of St. Giles's and hints intended for thy benefits for, Bermondsey, or of Wapping and the

66. thou hast need of discipline and art Burrough ?" The majority of this as- To give thee what politer France receives semblage was composed of individuals Froni nature's bounty--that humane address, of this class, and yet nothing escaped

And sweetness, without which no pleasure is, them that could either offend the

In converse, either starv'd by cold reserve, eye

Or fush'd with fierce dispute, a senseless broil." or ear of the most refined visitor. In

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