« ПредишнаНапред »
he fell asleep and forgot it, for not a • Yes, my Lord, he's the first of his step did he start from London while family ever fared so well; but there's e guinea was left. He made all sneer a wonderful fun-nonny-me happened again as long as it lasted, and then to him. Would you believe it, my away went the bay horse (shoved up Lord, that he took fright at a bunch the spout, as they call it,) and Billy of turnips that was flung over a hedge, carried on the war like
a Trojan. and after running over a chimneyBut his time and his cash nearly ex- sweep, turned as grey as a badger ?' pired together; so he takes his place –Wonderful! cried bis Lordship; outside the Portsmouth coach, and I must see him immediately;' and off leaves the bay horse to pay damages. they set for the stables. Well, I Well, just as they got to Post-down declare this is astonishing, Mr. C-! hill he 'lighted, and seeing a grey The creature is indeed grey; but, said beast at pasture in a field, he gets a his Lordship, adjusting his spectacles piece of two-inch rope, whips it over-but there is something more surthe neck, and rode home to his Lord- prising yet, Mr. C; why such a ship’s stables. “Well, Mr. C—, I thing was never heard of before! I hope you found all your friends hear- protest, as I am a living man, the ty, eh?” Quite so, my Lord, quite fright has been so great, that it has so. “And how's the bay horse ? I turned the bay horse into a grey hope you have behaved well to him ?' mare !!
AN OLD SAILOR.
LATE VOYAGES AND TRAVELS.
THE WONDERS OF ELORA :
BY JOHN B. SEELY,
Captain in the Native Bombay Infantry, &c.
graving from this volume, and some ac and the interior.
Nothing can be more delightful
island of Salsette by means of a causewe have regretted that the due notice of way. The prospect is as grand and other works has not permitted us to ren as beautiful as can be imagined : the der them still more copious. No pro- mighty range of the G'hāts towering duction of the past winter is more worthy of attention in every sense.
in the clouds and extending as far as
It is a voyage of discovery, and the novelties the eye can reach,—the bold views are not only very numerous, but are on the continent,—the diversified obmost ably brought under the eye of the jects on the island, -old ruinous conreader.]
vents and monasteries erected by its BOMBAY.
former conquerors, the Portuguese, THE "HE climate of Bombay is prefera- the noble country-houses of the Eu
ble to most parts of India, having ropeans, Hindoo pagodas, Mahomea refreshing sea-breeze, commonly tan mosques,—the remains of Mahcalled, from its healthful effects, the ratta forts and buildings ;—these, with Doctor. There is now very little the rural appearance of Hindoo villawood on the island, no marshes, and ges, where every patch of ground is luit few large pools of stagnant water. richly cultivated or ornamented, and To these causes much of the sickness interspersed with groves of date and that prevails in other parts of India cocoa-nut trees, afford a prospect of must be attributed; and the salubrity luxuriance and beauty to be met with of Bombay causes it to be resorted to nowhere but in the Concan. As we
turn our eyes towards the sea, we are is widely different from what we see presented with a fine hard beach, run- either at Calcutta or Bombay; and a ning on to the high and romantic spot journey on it, whether for amusement called Malabar Point, which promon- or business, is any thing but agreeatory is studded with neat villas; ble; for you are often in danger of while the city and fort are seen in the your life, and always in dread, in passback-ground, with the ships securely ing to and fro through the tremenat anchor in the harbour. Nor must dously high and long surfs that inceswe forget the isthmus called Colaba santly roll on the Coromandel shores, (probably Cāl-āb or black water,) and which commence about a mile inrunning for about two miles in a side of the roadstead, where ships lie straight line from Bombay, from which at anchor. There are three surfs ; it is separated at high water. On this and, after passing over the head of small island, which scarcely extends a one mountainous roller into the valley quarter of a mile in breadth, are seve of water between them, you cannot ral good houses, and a range of bar- for several seconds see either the city racks. At its farthest or western end in front or the ships in the rear, till stands a noble signal or light-house, you are forced by the impulse of the from the top of which is a very finé first on the top of the second roller. view of the island and adjacent coun- On passing over the surf, a stranger's try.
sensations may be imagined, but canNor is it on land alone that Bom- not be described; the oldest mariners bay possesses the advantages of situa- do not like the first trip a-shore. Action. Its harbour, from its great size, cidents sometimes occur; and for smoothness of the water, and for the days all communication between the greater part of the day having a fine shore and shipping is cut off. When sea-breeze blowing, affords almost you have arrived on shore, the heat is constant opportunity for aquatic ex- intolerable, with clouds of hot sand cursions : so open, indeed, and at the flying about ; and, to add to the missame time so secure, is the bay, that eries of Madras, the musquitoes are for miles, in various directions, the the largest and most venomous of sinallest boats may proceed with safe- any in India ; at night they swarm in ty, and, by means of the tide, return myriads, nor do they leave a stranger at almost a fixed hour. These excur quiet by day. I have both embarked sions may be extended seaward, in- and disembarked at Madras (not from land, or over to the Mahratta conti- choice) twice: I was wet through the nent, for several miles, embracing in first time, and the people were conthe journey a variety of beautiful, stantly baling the Massoolah boat; the picturesque, and grand scenery. How last time I was in imminent danger, widely different from the boasted river- with my family, for several minutes. parties on the Ganges about Calcutta ; One of the greatest comforts in all where
you have a muddy, and often a countries is to have good domestic servery dangerous, stream to sail on, vants : unquestionably the Parsees at with light and hot sultry airs, impreg- Bombay are very superior to their nated with all the poisonous effects of brethren at Calcutta both in usefulness mniasma, the wind hardly sufficiently and fidelity. Those at Calcutta dress strong to impel the boat; or else track- well, will only attend to one particular ing, by means of a dozen poor wretches branch of service, nor will any persuaslowly struggling through the low, sion, or even wages, induce them to marshy, and swampy banks of the use a single exertion beyond a preGanges, where the eye is unrelieved scribed and very limited duty fixed by by the smallest change of scenery, themselves. They are very indolent, and not a hill is to be seen in any di- very debauched in their habits, conserection; in short, where an uninter- quently not to be trusted ; and the Qui rupted view of jungle, flat land, water, hi menials are mighty consequential and mud presents itself.
be from their eduAt Madras the scene on the water cation and intolerant principles ; for
they are all Mussulmen. Bombay tain ; they are considerably injured by servant will do as much work, and do time, it as well, as five Bengal servants. Whom stone and brass obey, The domestics at Madras are chiefly of Who giv'st to every flying hour a low Hindoo caste : they are a hard
To work some new decay. working, willing set of men, but dirty These caves are very much injured
their habits, and greatly addicted to by the action of the sea-breeze, and drinking
from not having drains cut on the top The markets at Bombay are well of the mountain, to carry off the rain supplied, and for the most part the ar- water ; nor has any care been taken to ticles are all of moderate price. The bave trenches made at the foundation; fish are excellent; vegetables are abun- so that in the periodical rains they are dant and good ; poultry is reared by often inundated, and abound with repthe Portuguese in great quantities, and tiles, particularly snakes. From their sold cheap. The bread is said by vicinity to Bombay, they are frequently strangers to be preferable to that made visited by parties of pleasure; and, to in any
other part of India. As to com- preserve them from wilful injury by merce, revenue, taxes, manufactures, casual visitors, a wall with a gate has and statistical subjects in general, i lately been erected in front, and left in have but too imperfect an acquaint- charge of an invalid serjeant, with a ance to warrant my introducing them few invalid Siphauees, to protect them. to the notice of my readers.
The old man has a good house adjoinThere was great room for improve- ing, and has a comfortable sinecure of ment in the government of Bombay, it, as most visitors do not forget his and in the extensive countries depend- long stories, and the accommodation ent upon it. It is well known to be a for refreshment which his house afcentury behind the other capitals in fords. The view from the caves is every thing that has a tendency to make very fine, as they are situated about a country flourishing, respectable, and 350 feet above the level of the sea. great. It is not for me to investigate Here is the
famous colossal figure of the or discuss the causes ; I have not the Trimurti, Brāhma, Vishnů, and Siva, ability, and much less the inclination; the creating, preserving, and destroyfor, being an officer of that establish- ing, powers of the Hindoo mythology. ment, any observation of mine would, The cave is large, but by no means perhaps, be deemed injudicious : but equal to the large temple of Karli, or all ranks at Bombay, Europeans, as the far-famed ones at Elora. well as natives, rejoice in their present
TRAVELLING, enlightened and able ruler, the late After a pleasant evening with my British resident at Poona*; who, during friends at Panwell, at daybreak my his long residence in India, filled the baggage moved on. As the cavalcade highest diplomatic offices with singular may be new to the English reader, I success in the most difficult times ; subjoin a list. Three bullocks to carwhose energy and judgment are pro- ry a tent, twelve feet square, consisting verbial with all classes of natives, and of inner shell and outer fly, and two whose impartiality is acknowledged walls; three bullocks for clothes, proby all branches of the public service. visions, books, &c.; two porters for
camp-cot and writing desk; one ditto On quitting Butcher's Island, called for breakfast utensils, &c.; one tattoo, by the natives Deva Devi, or Island of or pony, for head servant ; two ditto the Gods, not far up the bay stands belonging to my servants, of whom I the celebrated Elephanta Island. It had four with me. There was an esis of considerable elevation, and fa- cort of six. Siphauees and a corporal. mous for its caves hewn out of the Several native travellers accompanied solid rock from the face of the moun- my people for their own security, as
the country was sometimes infested * Hon. Mountstuart Elphinstone, well known to with robbers. the literary world by his “ History of Cabool.” In the rainy season with the execra
ble state of the roads, rivulets, or nul- as they are romantic and singular in lahs, running impetuously, and large appearance in others. Above and berivers without bridges, the miseries of yond these mountains we fancy another travelling, regulated by a heavy laden world, of whose inhabitants we know ox's pace, are most intolerable. An nothing; how to visit them, how to Englishman, accustomed to the celeri- penetrate their country, or how to scale ty of mail-coaches, the comforts of an their inaccessible looking wall, extendinn, a dry skin, fine roads, and a beau- ing for thirteen degrees of latitude, and tiful country, would be almost driven rising to a height of from four to 5500 mad. The natives of India never pos feet. sess much energy of action ; and on a On taking a more leisurely view of heavy monsoon day, when well drench- the mighty wall before me, while waned with rain, they are nearly inani- dering about this most interesting spot, mate: if to this be added journeying in two or three apertures were seen, but an enemy's country, every blade of the difficulty was how were they to be grass burnt up, the wells poisoned, the approached, “whose top to climb is villages destroyed and deserted, and certain falling, or the fear as bad as you for security's sake obliged to keep falling.” All my cogitations on the close to your baggage-cattle, that are subject were soon put to rest by the arwalking at a rate of not above two rival of about 250 bullocks, laden with miles in the hour, or hardly that, and grain for the Bombay market, the drothe rain falling in torrents for days to- vers soon having eased my doubts with gether; I think an English traveller respect to the apparent impossibility of would lament a little his hard fate. surmounting the barrier.
While sujourning after his fatigues From the wretched state of the roads, on muddy ground, his baggage wet my poor servants did not arrive till through, and his servants exhausted, past the meridian hour; but one whom the most lonely hedge ale-house in i had sent-forward over-night had preCornwall would appear to him a pal- pared my breakfast; after which, as I
If travelling by himself in the often was wont to do after the perspirafair season, or N. E. monsoon, with tion produced by walking about the “ all appliances to boot," it is but a village had subsided, I jumped into a melancholy thing; there being but lit- tank, clothes and all, which, without tle on the road to interest or gratify apprehension of danger, I left to dry the traveller, excepting in some large upon me. It was insufferably hot at city, where the pride and vanity of a this place, situate in an ampitheatre of great man may have erected a splendid mountains, the naked face of each burnmosque or pagoda, or dug a fine tank, ing with heat, and reflecting the rays, or for defence built a large fort : the wbile every breeze was excluded. All intermediate country is the scene of the heat was concentrated, as it were, poverty, wretchedness, and oppression. in a focus ; the thermometer was at I speak of the countries of the native 104 in the shade at 2 P. M. powers; our provinces present a very A little before day-break we comdifferent aspect.
menced our formidable undertaking, of
what appeared to be nothing less than Capooly is a mean, dirty little vil- scaling the mural sides of towering lage, situate at the very base of the mountains. The road, after' going great barrier wall of rock that supports some little distance, becomes very steep, the table land of the Deccan, prop- lined with high banks, and interrupted ping up an immense tract of country, by large stones and fragments of rock. some large rivers, several millions The distance may be altogether six of people, and many cities, towns, and miles, but equal to treble that number villages.
in any thing like a good road. ProThis enormous chain of mountain is ceeding onwards on foot, the path at an securely fastened by iron-bound but- abrupt angle overhangs a frightful pretresses of primeval granite, as naked cipice and valley, covered with an eterand frightful to look on in some places, nal jungle, and where probably the foot
of man never penetrated : here, in the very bottom, peeping out of the deep The Hindoos, in all situations, are a foliage, gleam the waters of a few me- docile, cheerful, good-tempered people : andering streams, which have their what vicious qualities they do possess sources in unknown parts of the moun are owing to the wretched and arbitrary tains. Beyond this immense hollow rule under which they live. It is truly are seen the forms of vast mountains, astonishing what arduous and long towering away, as far as the eye can journeys these poor afflicted people will reach, in rude and magnificent outline, perform, for a few pence, in the most till they are lost in the clouds, or their tempestuous seasons; swimming large continuity only known by their rent and impetuous rivers, penetrating soliclefts and peaks peering through the tary and unknown routes through iinlight-blue veil of mist.
mense forests infested by beasts of prey In some parts of the road the passage and banditti, exposed to the mid-day is guttered by little streams of water, sun, and sleeping on the ground nightthat run gurgling down the precipitously, for weeks together, their whole fronts of the rock, affording a pleasing, sustenance daily being only two or soothing sound, as we trace our course three handfuls of parched grain, and through these sequestered spots. Not often bad water to allay their thirst; quite half way up, is a small patch of yet are these poor wretches always table land, where the traveller is sure to good-humoured, faithful to their emhalt and take some refreshment, not ployers, and, as husbands and fathers, more for the purpose of recruiting his examples to us. strength than regaining his wind; for, It is not uncommon to find a labourwhat with clambering, slipping, and ing Hindoo supporting his wife's relaproceeding up a very steep ascent, great tives and his own parents who are past personal exertion is required.
work, with contentment and cheerfulAt this spot, the convoys of bullocks, ness.
It is true these people are gross carrying merchandize to and fro, halt idolaters, but they practise many virfor an extra day and night, if greatly tues which we Christians lack the obfatigued. In their night encampments servance of. It would strike with wonthey take every precaution against der a stranger to observe a body of thieves and wild beasts: they select the coolies conveying a pipe of wine, a 24mural side of an open spot to place pounder, or an 80-gallon cask of beer their cattle: thus the steep side of the up the defile, at the top of which we mountain flanks one side, while the have just arrived. bags containing the produce they carry
THE GʻHATS. are piled up to some height, and, when Having now said something of the placed, form something like the segment Mahratta country and the Hindoo of a circle: within are the families, and people, it only remains to offer a few sometimes cattle. One or two watch- brief remarks on the great range of men are stationed on the top, while mountains improperly called G'hāts, fires are burning in front. Their dogs and to take a peep at the great exca(the Brinjare) are a valuable breed, vated temple of Karli (Ekverah). This fierce, strong, and watchful-evidently will occupy us until our arrival at the a cross of the wolf and domestic dog. temples of Elora. In the intervening Thus will these carriers travel for 1000 country there is nothing to gratify the miles with a convoy of as many laden philantrophist, instruct the legislator, or bullocks; and they are very punctual please the philosopher; no Aourishing and honest in their dealings. Without towns, public institutions, or learned their aid, according to the mode of war- communities; no splendid buildings, fare in India, whole arnies would be fine bridges, or beautiful gardens; starved. They always go well armed, nothing, in fact, to denote prosperity or and in critical times have
escorts. They happiness. Compared with the Brithave paths and routes known only to ish provinces, it may be truly called themselves, which they traverse from one wild waste. Wherever the Mahone extremity of India to the other. ratta comes, the land is cursed. A few